Workshop sizes?

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WillRiseley

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Isle of Sheppey,Kent
So we have moved house and its finally shed time :eek:ccasion4: :eek:ccasion4: :eek:ccasion4: the area i have is 10m x 6.50m BUT its has a slope running across the 6.50m of 90cm top to bottom and we have clay soil.

The shed has neighbouring gardens either side with a nice 9ft high hedge one side, a 10ft hedge at the back and a new 7ft fence with trelli on the other so its nice and hidden away. As the whole garden slopes away it cannot even be seen by neighbours unless its 4m high :D

So do I go all out and build something 4/5m wide by 9m long and then fill it with goodies or do i give in to swmbo and build a 6x5 and let her have the other end of it as a 'retreat' room :roll: ???
 
So i have been trying to work it out on sketchup at 5x6m and once you start putting machines in its pretty hard to lay it all out. Im thinking up the size and take more :)
 
Been messing about with this and even 5mx8m doesnt seem big enough? Or am I crazy as i will be upgrading from a single garage half full of junk so anything will be better :)

 
Just my own thoughts, but bigger is clearly best and surely the wife could be convinced of the merits of a big one? There is no way that you are ever going to say 'I wish it was smaller' is there?

Mine is not as big as I'd like, but the wife is happy as it is proportionate to the size of the garden.

Colin
 
When I vacated my garage (not moved house) and build my man cave in the garden, I 'gave' the garage to my wife, for her - um - woman cave. Full of quilting stuff, but its nice we each have our own spaces.

(40 square meters is my cave size - happy to exchange layout details).
 
Has your missus really thought it through asking for a 'retreat' room on the end of a workshop? Unless of course you sound proof it for her.
 
Whatever size you think you need, you'll want more believe me. Little things like being able to manoeuvre long boards around, storing your sheet goods or long lengths make all the difference. I have a triple garage and I still need more space! You will seriously regret not building it to the absolute max you can accommodate.
 
Ian if you have some layouts it would be good please.

Well her plan is to use it as a retreat when im not in there. Which is clearly all the time............Obviously!!??
40sqm would be quite a nice big size and hopefully not to big that I need centre posts to take the roof support?
I did thin about making a gluelam ridge beam for it to save posts in the middle of the floor
 
WillRiseley":1pq8vxle said:
I did thin about making a gluelam ridge beam for it to save posts in the middle of the floor

I used a steel 'I' beam in the ridge of my roof because I didn't want trusses, preferred the extra headroom. I don't regret it.
 
To me the essential is infeed / outfeed paths for each machine that this applies to, so I'm a bit puzzled by your planer and thicknesser positions shown, unless you only work with short material.

1. Doors / windows can sometimes be opened to increase path length if a machine is positioned to take advantage of that.
2. Machines needn't be parallel to the walls, as shown with your lathe but this also applies to linear through-feed machines.

I would forget the 3D to start with and concentrate on a 2D plan on paper, cut out some scale machine representations that you can move around on that, and map the areas that work needs to pass through each machine.

???
 
Im trying to figure out the ruling on this aswell.

Distance from neighbours fence/hedge??? Some places say 2mtrs but thats a lot and would cut down on the size surely?

I was thinking of building it 50cm away from neigbouring fences and hedge as there all new, and are over 7ft high anyway so nobody can see the backside of them and that will allow me enough room to get around the shed for maintenance.

Also blockwork versus timberframe? Im thinking that as I can do both which may be cheaper and quicker? to either timber frame,osb then cladding plus interior walls or just do it in blocks then render and paint it and just insulate the inside?
 
I wonder if blockwork vs timber would make a difference to how close to the neighbours you can be? Blockwork should deaden the sound a lot more than timber and what about keeping everything dry?
 
I thought any garden building had to be min 1m from any boundary.

For me personally I would frame the whole thing up, insulate the panels, clad with whatever I could afford (waney oak has always appealed but budget etc) and then clad the interior with ply. Reason for that is you can then put fixings directly into the walls which is really useful when kitting out any built ins. For additional lightness you could always paint the ply walls.

Also the poster that says plan on the infeed/outfeed paths has articulated what I was thinking when I said make it big. That was what I meant by long boards.

If you can keep the roof a cut one then....vaulted ceiling....huge amount of space to put a mezzanine where you store your timber...that's not a small consideration in my case as timber and rapidly expanding turning blanks take a lot of room. Also plan on room for a wood burner.
 
No more than 2.4m high and no more than 50% of total garden area including front. Right up to boundary if you want. A kindly neighbour sent the council round to check mine. Said I was running a business from it and that it was over size. Wrong on both counts. Wish I knew who!
 
Right...it must be a habitable building that needs to stand a metre away from the boundary.

Here's a copy paste job that has some of the rules. Ridge height is 4m in the right setting


No outbuilding on land forward of a wall forming the principal elevation. (that means not in front of the house).


Outbuildings and garages to be single storey with maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of four metres with a dual pitched roof or three metres for any other roof.


Maximum height of 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within two metres of a boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse (that means the boundary of the whole plot).


No verandas, balconies or raised platforms (where are we Australia? It’s too cold for a veranda anyway, surely!).


No more than half the area of land around the “original house” would be covered by additions or other buildings.
 
Random Orbital Bob":2ei4dhn9 said:
Right...it must be a habitable building that needs to stand a metre away from the boundary.

Here's a copy paste job that has some of the rules. Ridge height is 4m in the right setting


No outbuilding on land forward of a wall forming the principal elevation. (that means not in front of the house).


Outbuildings and garages to be single storey with maximum eaves height of 2.5 metres and maximum overall height of four metres with a dual pitched roof or three metres for any other roof.


Maximum height of 2.5 metres in the case of a building, enclosure or container within two metres of a boundary of the curtilage of the dwellinghouse (that means the boundary of the whole plot).


No verandas, balconies or raised platforms (where are we Australia? It’s too cold for a veranda anyway, surely!).


No more than half the area of land around the “original house” would be covered by additions or other buildings.

20 Years ago I lived in warrington. My Neighbour built a double extension on the boundary, (with planning permission). His gutter was over my land but the council said it was OK!! :evil:
 
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