Workshop Interior - suggestions and critique

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Another update after a few hours in the workshop this weekend:
  • I put some basic shelves into the existing 1200mm unit
  • I made the mitre saw unit
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Now I have the mitre saw unit I can finally pack away the dewalt folding stand - I am VERY pleased about that! The stand is great for site work tbh but was quite irritating in the workshop as the wide legs just took up too much space and were always getting in the way. The mitre saw now takes up only a 600mm x 600mm footprint and can be wheeled around as required. I made it 159mm lower than my 950mm high units so that the 950 units align perfectly as in-feed and out-feed tables once the mitre saw is in place.

I think this system works perfectly for me - the three units give me 3 functions so far:
  1. mitre saw station (can handle any length of timber by moving the infeed and outfeed tables around)
  2. MFT
  3. large assembly table / workspace (by combining the MFT and the 1200mm together)
Here are some pics of my newly de-cluttered space now that the mitre stand is out the way and that a lot of my junk is on the new shelves inside the units

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All of a sudden there is loads of space and I haven't lost any functionality

Next up
  • I might build the final 1200mm unit - this will give me more storage space and will also expand the maximum size of my assembly table / space
  • I might do some wall mounted stuff - get the clamps on the wall and a few other items that I want quick access to
  • I might build a desk top that folds out from one of the 1200mm units (to use as a desk to sit at)
  • I might think about mounting the shop vac in a unit too - possibly doing a blast gate setup for mitre saw and track saw (my two main tools - if I ignore the bandsaw which seems to have fairly rubbish dust management)

Martin
 
May as well do a quick update on this thread seeing as I have made a little more progress with my workshop interior.

Installed a couple of french cleats and improved some of the existing benches by adding drawers and shelves. Still plenty of work to do but its getting there.

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I am really liking the cleats on the wall, its great having quick access to things I use the most (pencils, squares and chisels at the moment) and also being able to shift them around the workshop is really nice.

Martin
 

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You improved what? I couldn't take my eyes off your lighting system/design. That's superb, man!

My lighting, still work in progress, is led strip in corner profiles where the ceiling meets the walls. Very effective still a little disturbing to the eyes. Your system solves a lot of these issues.
 
What BucksDad said. You'd need to have a wooden Daft Punk style helmet with light sticks though, which could be a bit of an emb*ggerance for planing.
Seriously though, you do have additional lighting to be able to see what you are doing?
Very " music room" or "cocktail bar" ambience, which may well be a good "niche" market to exploit.Some decades ago I did a full discotheque / night club design and decor, including bars, dance floors walls, furniture, lights , lasers etc, the whole thing. Prior to that I'd done some decors, murals in clubs, but not the lighting as it was pre laser and definitely pre LEDs.The owner brought in a team to actually make what I designed.He and I just sort of "supervised" them. Very lucrative for everyone concerned.
You have a good design sense, "dungeons", and "adult play rooms" and associated "equipment" would be an area that I'd seriously consider if I were you. Little competition in the UK.
 
In my opinion and according to my research, led strip lightning can be beneficial in woodworking. I too noticed the insufficient light behind the amazing design but I suspect there are more lights to come in this project. Having a 360 (or close) uniform lighting (good quality led strips provide this, uniform lightning) can help a lot in the shop.
 
With the lighting, I do have traditional lighting also, 6 x diffused downlighters. They are crazy bright and in fact the reason I started looking at something less bright as it's very all or nothing; sometimes in the evening it's just too much. Sometimes I am exercising in there, or just pottering, and I don't need or want it too bright.

The pictures are a bit misleading, both rails were set to pure white light, but the different colour of the wall results in one set of lights looking blue. In real life it doesn't look as cocktail bar-y.

Overall I'm happy with the lighting but a little disappointed also, they don't give off as much light as I was expecting. Either my expectations were set too high or Govee LED lights are not very bright. I do find I can 'work' in there with just the LED lights but it would be nice if they gave off more light.

Martin
 
What BucksDad said. You'd need to have a wooden Daft Punk style helmet with light sticks though, which could be a bit of an emb*ggerance for planing.
Seriously though, you do have additional lighting to be able to see what you are doing?
Very " music room" or "cocktail bar" ambience, which may well be a good "niche" market to exploit.Some decades ago I did a full discotheque / night club design and decor, including bars, dance floors walls, furniture, lights , lasers etc, the whole thing. Prior to that I'd done some decors, murals in clubs, but not the lighting as it was pre laser and definitely pre LEDs.The owner brought in a team to actually make what I designed.He and I just sort of "supervised" them. Very lucrative for everyone concerned.
You have a good design sense, "dungeons", and "adult play rooms" and associated "equipment" would be an area that I'd seriously consider if I were you. Little competition in the UK.
Interesting to hear about your lighting projects, and thanks for the tips on the specialist and untapped market! Worth a thought as I do enjoy lighting projects and would like to do some more work in that area.
 
What BucksDad said. You'd need to have a wooden Daft Punk style helmet with light sticks though, which could be a bit of an emb*ggerance for planing.
Seriously though, you do have additional lighting to be able to see what you are doing?
Very " music room" or "cocktail bar" ambience, which may well be a good "niche" market to exploit.Some decades ago I did a full discotheque / night club design and decor, including bars, dance floors walls, furniture, lights , lasers etc, the whole thing. Prior to that I'd done some decors, murals in clubs, but not the lighting as it was pre laser and definitely pre LEDs.The owner brought in a team to actually make what I designed.He and I just sort of "supervised" them. Very lucrative for everyone concerned.
You have a good design sense, "dungeons", and "adult play rooms" and associated "equipment" would be an area that I'd seriously consider if I were you. Little competition in the UK.
I had to look up that word but I like it 👍
 
Hi

No updates really, sorry, it's been a bit slow, life got in the way a bit 😅 I'll put up a recent picture, I don't think it's changed much or at all.
IMG_20230830_182124.jpg

IMG_20230830_182109.jpg

I've adde a wooden plane that I bought from Phil on here... that might be the only change 😅
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Martin
 
I dont like the idea of loosing 100mm every time I put a rail in, same issue with the 4x2 if situated vertically (which is obvs best for strength)

here is an option I'm looking at where I only lose 50mm:
View attachment 152678

Structure
  • 2x2 front and back rails
  • 4x2 side rails
  • legs 4x2 legs notched for the front and back rails so that these structural components (front and back rails) are not held up with fixings only
I dont know how Im going to do the bottom rails yet (for the bottom shelf), I don't want to notch out a rebate as that will take a while. Actually thinking about it it wont take that long....

Martin
I worry that there is no lateral bracing. I would put an 8mm ply panel at the back or a jointed cross brace in the frame. If you set the top longitudinal cross back from the bench top by say 50mm you can then put your clamps on the back or anything else too.
 
I have put together a rough plan for my workshop interior (at long last), 4m x 3.5m
  1. mitre station and wood rack on left
  2. bandsaw at back
  3. mft and workbench on right

View attachment 152597
View attachment 152600

Cabinet structure
View attachment 152601
here is status quo:
View attachment 152598
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I am primarily looking for thoughts on the following at this stage:
  • structure of the cabinets - is there a cheaper or better way to do it
    • I'm planning on using untreated construction timber/CLS/C24 for the skeleton but also considering MDF or cheap ply (I would ideally do it all in birch ply or valchromat but I don't have the budget)
  • material for tops/sheathing/shelving
    • nice ply, cheap ply, MDF?
    • thickness=18mm, 12mm, 6mm?
Considerations
  • I do want it to look nice, but I also want to try and use cheaper materials where I can get away with it - so thinking of things like drawer carcass being cheap ply but birch ply drawer fronts. Or cabinet tops being birch ply and interior cabinet sheathing and shelving being MDF
  • I haven't yet figured out what type of storage to have in the cabinets - maybe shelves, maybe drawers, maybe a mixture - advice on that welcome
  • I also NEED to create a rack for my clamps (they are in a plastic box on floor and driving me mad), don't know where to put that yet though
  • at some point I will create a french cleat system on the wall for storage of hand tools and some other stuff I might want easy access to - perhaps that would be good for my clamp storage seeing as I don't know where I want that yet
  • my woodworking style will be a mix of power tools/MFT track saw stuff and hand woodworking - haven't really found my groove yet so I'm doing a bit of both, maybe a bit of both IS my groove....

Description of the general concept
  • everything on castors
  • the cabinets from the mitre saw area will be wheeled over to the MFT area when I need a bigger working surface (such as if I cut down full sheets)
  • everything is set at 950mm (including castors) so its all compatible, other than the workbench which is 850mm (and the funny little mitre saw stand which is about 900mm)
  • mitre area situated near the french doors in case I need to cut very long stuff
  • workbench near the window for max light

cheers
Martin
I just love your pile of shavings! :ROFLMAO: It is obvious that you have been industrious!
 
Hi

No updates really, sorry, it's been a bit slow, life got in the way a bit 😅 I'll put up a recent picture, I don't think it's changed much or at all.
View attachment 165607
View attachment 165608
I've adde a wooden plane that I bought from Phil on here... that might be the only change 😅
View attachment 165609

Martin
May I ask how did you attach your bandsaw to that nice stand? Mine is a Metabo that I believe has a very similar of not identical base and I can't really use on the 'mobile' stand due to vibration issues.
 
May I ask how did you attach your bandsaw to that nice stand? Mine is a Metabo that I believe has a very similar of not identical base and I can't really use on the 'mobile' stand due to vibration issues.
I just bolted it from underneath. The bandsaw has 4 mounting holes already.
 

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