Workshop Floor Repair

[Hemsby]

My workshop floor is in need of attention, internal dimensions are 24x8 foot.

I intend to cover the old concrete floor with flooring grade T&G chipboard on top of 1” thick Tantalized battens, levelled & screwed to the floor. (can’t be much thicker than a 1” batten )

My intention is to lay the battens across the 8ft width spaced at a maximum of 12” centres with the 8’x2’ sheets at right angles to the battens & running parallel to the walls.

I would appreciate members thoughts as to whether the 12” centres will support the chipboard while moving my wheeled table saw & planer thicknesses and bandsaw around.

Thanks

 

[mahomo59]

How out is the existing floor? Just converted massive garage into one bed bungalow, building control wanted DPM 70mm celotex and then float the chipboard gluing all joints.
So if you're tight for hieght you could go 25mm celotex and then chipboard. DPM if unsure if it has one.
My single garage floor was badly out, but didn't have the time or money to fix. I did DPM, green 6mm fibre board (stuff used under laminate) then chipboard. It's made a huge difference under foot and warmth. Way too low on height to do any thing else. Cast iron Ujk router table rolls around a treat, as does my 2m x1m bench on castors.

James

 

[Hemsby]

How out is the existing floor? Just converted massive garage into one bed bungalow, building control wanted DPM 70mm celotex and then float the chipboard gluing all joints.
So if you're tight for hieght you could go 25mm celotex and then chipboard. DPM if unsure if it has one.
My single garage floor was badly out, but didn't have the time or money to fix. I did DPM, green 6mm fibre board (stuff used under laminate) then chipboard. It's made a huge difference under foot and warmth. Way too low on height to do any thing else. Cast iron Ujk router table rolls around a treat, as does my 2m x1m bench on castors.

James

Thanks for the reply

My workshop floor is like a banana across its width, it has sunk approximately 1inch causing instability of some of my equipment.

This is caused by historical subsidence from poor consolidation of the hardcore we had the same problem in some of the house floors which have had new screeds, would have done the workshop floor had we have known at the time #-o .

The outer edges of the floor are level, my plan is to lay the battens across, level and pack them at the low points where necessary then to cover with the chipboard. Insulation can be placed between the battens. It will be a laborious job :roll: :roll:

My concern is the spacing of the battens to support the chipboard sheets.

It is impractical now to store all the tools & equipment for a week or more while renewing the screed, but possible to put half the chipboard down, move the equipment and then finish the rest.

Regards

Keith

 

[carlb40]

12 inch centres will be more than enough, especially as you have a concrete base. My timber floor has 6x2 timbers with 18mm ply and i have 2 cast iron machines plus other stuff and in nearly 10yrs now i think have had no sag or bounce.

 

[RobinBHM]

If you can rip the celetex on your saw, I would be tempted to cut this first then use to butt each joist against as you go. It has to be cut stop on though so your centres dont run out.

Ive fitted joists over concrete oversite before, instead of laying screed where the final floor finish is timber. Its a real pain to level up the joists. Ive found packing the joists with ply offcuts to get the level right is a good start. Then bed the gaps between the packers with mortar to stop bounce. For gaps that are small, pumping in silicone works.

 

[Hemsby]

Thank you all for your help

Regards