Workshop Build

[Norfolk75]

This may sound a silly question but worth a go.

I'm going to hopefully start my workshop build in the next week or two but can't afford to lay out all the materials in one hit. Anyway I've got 3/4 of studs etc and timber to build the base but things like OSB & Cladding will have to wait.

Is this a project that can be done is stages? So in other words can I build the timber base and maybe cover it with tarpaulin. All timbers including studs have been treated too.

Thanks.

 

[Roughcut]

Absolutely.
When I did mine I bought a couple of these to use as covering while I plodded on doing the build in stages:
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p54683?searchstr=damp

 

[skipdiver]

I probably wouldn't myself but i suppose you can. I personally would wait for the better weather and longer daylight and try to get as much of the materials as i could stockpiled ready to go. If there is any groundwork to do, you could get that prepared.

 

[Norfolk75]

Thank you.

Hopefully the weather will pick up in the next few weeks. @Roughcut Do you recommend the DPM as cover over tarpaulin?

 

[Roughcut]

I found the dpm sheet definitely tough enough to offer protection from rain and wind.
I used them at various stages of the build from initially covering the materials while outside, then as the build progressed covering the base and keeping it dry and at a later stage of the build as a roof covering over the rafters until the roof was finished.
Good value for money in my opinion.

 

[RobinBHM]

If you think about what you are doing and make a neat job of the dpm protection you should be able to keep you work perfectly dry.

Bear in mind loose corners or anywher that wi d wil, get to could allkw the plastic to blow off.

If for example cover the roof with dpm but have a side missing, wind pressure could be a problem. Storm Doris being a timely reminder

 

[skipdiver]

You can get a roll of 1000g poly cheap enough and a bundle of roofing laths and nails used to fix it down around edges is the best way to go, so no wind can get under it. Having worked as a builder/joiner for many years on various outdoor projects, i always made sure i had a supply of the above items for inclement weather. Didn't have much choice when doing it for a living but if i were to be building a home workshop for myself, i would be inclined to wait for the warmer weather and longer days. It's definitely do-able at any time of the year though if you want to crack on.

 

[Dandan]

I laid my slab in the middle of October last year, with the intention of stopping work there until the spring to avoid the same problem you are talking about, having a half built building exposed to the mercy of the winter.
Of course excitement got the better of me and I decided to push on and begin the timber framing straight away, thinking that I could do exactly as suggested and use DPM to protect things temporarily if the weather turned.
As luck would have it, we had an amazingly dry and mild Autumn/Winter and by new years I had a weatherproof structure, having only been rained off perhaps 1 weekend in all that time and I never resorted to any temporary covering of any sort.
If I had waited before building, I would still be sat looking at an empty slab whilst furiously checking the weather forecast to see when I could begin building, instead I can watch my sturdy workshop shrug off storm Doris with ease, then pop inside and have a play on the new table saw.

The moral of this ramble is that you might as well crack on ASAP, because you never know your luck, treated timber won't mind a spot of rain and you can always resort to temporary coverings if things get really bad. Good luck!

 

[Norfolk75]

Cheers for the replies.

I've decided to crack on ASAP.

Just one more question if you don't mind. Unfortunately my Air gun completely gave up a while back so I'm going to have to screw it so can someone recommend me a good quality 3" screw please. I'm going to use 3 inch nails for the base frame.

 

[Austinisgreat]

Spax screws are hard to beat for framing/studwork.

Cheers

Andrew

 

[skipdiver]

3" nails are a bit short if it's for 2" timber?

 

[Roughcut]

I would recommend getting torx head screws if possible.
I happened to use the Wickes green phosphated decking screws just because I have a local branch and it was convenient.
I used stainless steel annular ring shank nails (purchased from ebay) for the t&g exterior cladding which although good were expensive.
In hindsight galvanised nails would likely be suitable enough.

 

[mayo.mick]

Cheers for the replies.

I've decided to crack on ASAP.

Just one more question if you don't mind. Unfortunately my Air gun completely gave up a while back so I'm going to have to screw it so can someone recommend me a good quality 3" screw please. I'm going to use 3 inch nails for the base frame.

The sooner you crack on, the sooner you'll be in your new workshop turning wood to shavings Would you think of doing a "work in progress build" thread? Best of luck with it

 

[Norfolk75]

@skipdiver Yes 3" is too small think I'll go to 3 1/2 or 4.

@Roughcut Thanks I was looking at the Torx heads as used them before and they go in so well.

@mayomick I'm a Dryliner by trade so you you'll probably only see the Work in progress build when Im jointing as I know what I'm doing but the timber side the real craftsmen on here would probably laugh so I'll leave that bit out

 

[skipdiver]

We won't laugh, promise. If you post pictures, you are more likely to get helpful pointers. I have just completed my third workshop build and there are still things i would do differently.

 

[SVB]

Looking forward to seeing the kitted out and tidy ready to use photos, looks a great space.

S