Wooden planes. Why?

[Vormulac]

Hi all,

I have done a search and not really come up with a satisfactory answer, so I thought I would ask. What is the point of a wooden plane? I see many many users on here talk of using them and do so with a great deal of enthusiasm, but I am wondering why.
Surely a metal plane will be better than a wooden plane for durability, holding its shape etc, so is it a triumph of nostalgia that they are still in use (no bad thing, I hasten to add), or are there genuine practical reasons why 'woodies' are so fondly regarded by so many?

I look forward to your answers with great avidity!

V.

 

[Taffy Turner]

Funnily enough, I was browsing through the Rutlands catalogue last night, and was thinking along similar lines.

I can see that wooden planes are much less expensive than metal ones, so would be more cost effective for moulding planes and such like, but for general planes I don't think that all that faffing about adjusting the blade would be worth the cost benefit to be honest.

However - I stand to be corrected by those in the know.

Gary

 

[Vormulac]

I'm glad it's not just me!
It occured to me originally as there is a fortnightly boot fair just down the road from where I live and there are always loads of them for sale, lacking any real knowledge about them I always regarded them as more of a curiosity than anything else.

V.

 

[jamrine]

Get a really well tuned wooden smoother. One with a very tight mouth and very sharp iron.

Put it to wood and then come back and let us know what you think.

I started with all Type 11 Stanleys. They were great. I sold those and moved on to Veritas bevel-up planes. I love them, they are fantastic. But, when I reach for a plane, the first thing I grab is my wooden coffin smoother or my wooden razee jack plane. They feel right in your hand, they feel right on the wood.

When it comes to adjustment, you only really need to adjust once. Get the iron sharp, fuss with the iron in the plane a bit, and don't move it until you need to sharlen again. The adjustments get easier to do in short order anyway.

-Jamey

 

[Alf]

Really needs a serious woodie devotee for this one, but a few things that spring to mind:

- As woodworkers it's naturally easier to tune a wooden plane than metal.
- Wood on wood is extraordinarily slick; metal on wood less so.
- Don't be fooled by the "benefits" of an adjustable frog; the soild, part-of-the-body bedding of a woodie is much better.
- Thicker blades, like wot everyone goes on about, are really thick in a wooden plane.
- A skilled user can probably adjust a wooden plane quicker and more accurately than using a threaded adjuster.
- Cheaper
- Helluva a lot easier to make a wooden plane for a custom job (see first point)
- Lighter weight (whether that's good or not is a whole other debate though)

Mind you the metal vs wood debate has raged for many years (got an argument on the subject in a 1930s Woodworker iirc) so I doubt will come to a unanimous decision on this one. :lol:

Cheers, Alf

 

[garywayne]

I've got a couple of woodies and they just glide along/across the timber sorry, forgot to put the blade in. Kidding. Yes they do glide, and feel great in your hand. I must admit, it is still hit and miss with the adjustment at the moment.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

I've not used one since my first years at school, I just couldn't get over the frustration of trying to set one. As far as I'm concerned they make better firewood than planes 8-[ :-k I better get out quick :lol:

 

[Pekka Huhta]

Just as well you could ask why to use a hand plane when there are those wonderful 'lectric planes available as well (sheesh)

The reason why wooden planes are easily regarded as the tools for the "worst traditionalists" is that it really takes a bit of time to get the touch on them. The traditionalists have the touch and know why a wooden plane has it's benefits.

I know a lot of the wooden boatbuilders over here and most of them really prefer wooden planes. It's so very easy to make the plane by yourself and as there are very few straight forms on wooden boats, you have to have the versatility of wood to make all the planes yourself.

Anonther thing that shouldn't be taken too lightly is the weight of the planes. Ok, a bench plane on a workbench is OK. But if you have to do most of the job single-handed, on temporary stands or just between your knees on the floor, it really helps if you don't have a 2 kg plane to toss around.

Boatbuilding is quite unique, but the same things apply to other woodworking as well.

And there is the emotional aspect as well. Tuning and using a good metal plane is very, very satisfying. Knowing that the tuning and use of a wooden plane is even more difficult makes it even more satisfying to get the wooden plane to work perfectly. It's the zen in it :wink:


Pekka

 

[bugbear]

I've got a couple of woodies and they just glide along/across the timber sorry, forgot to put the blade in.

Actually, at the risk of stealing the BBC's motto, pushing a Bailey #5 and woodie jack across a workpiece, with the blades retracted (or removed) from each, can be both informative, educational and entertaining.

BugBear

 

[Alf]

...pushing a Bailey #5 and woodie jack across a workpiece, with the blades retracted (or removed) from each, can be both informative, educational and entertaining.

And they say I need to get out more... :roll: :lol:

 

[MikeW]

I have recently decided to sell off the remainder of my metal bench planes. Well, I'll probably keep my LV low angle for shooting board use and a 605 which was a gift from a family friend.

In their stead, are a couple jacks, fore, try and a 28" jointer which probably won't see a lot of use. One jack has seen substantial use and will have its iron ground with a substantial camber. As well, a C&W small smoother will make its way here after the new year <--that has been on my list for quite some time.

We'll see if this was folly over the next few years...

Take care, Mike

 

[bugbear]

a C&W small smoother will make its way here after the new year

Heh. Are you paying for that in cash or kind? The idea of a plane/saw swap at that level of quality appeals to me

BugBear

 

[MikeW]

a C&W small smoother will make its way here after the new year

Heh. Are you paying for that in cash or kind? The idea of a plane/saw swap at that level of quality appeals to me

BugBear

Cash...which is why the remainder of the metal bench planes are going away.

But a maker of metal planes and such and I may have something in the works...not only a swap for tools, but other exciting possibilities.

Take care, Mike

 

[woodbloke]

I keep a 2" jack under the bench - with a really sharp and well set up plane the cut taken can be phenomenal, far more than can be achieved with a metal plane, so its very useful for a quick bit of stock reduction by hand, tho' the sole in front of the mouth wears quickly - Rob

 

[Philly]

V
An interesting question!
I love woodies for their feel. You have a much more "intimate" experience with them-you can definitely tell what is going on at the sharp end a little better than metal planes (IMHO). Also, as a woodworker I love the feel of the material (who likes metal handles on their bench planes??) and the previously mentioned slickness of wood-on-wood is a real benefit.
Downsides are movement and wear. Again, as wood is my chosen medium an awareness of the wood/moisture/movement relationship means you soon learn to live with a wooden tool. And being a woodworker, I just happen to have the necessary tools to true up a wayward plane!
The adjustment of wooden planes is another bugbear, but one you soon get used to. I personally prefer a screw adjuster of some kind to the "tap-tap" method of adjustment but it is no big deal once you have a little practise.
Hope this is of help
Philly

 

[Anonymous]

But, when I reach for a plane, the first thing I grab is my wooden coffin smoother or my wooden razee jack plane. They feel right in your hand, they feel right on the wood.

I'm the same, I have 3 or 4 of those old marples "tecnical jack" razee planes I love then. They are set at different degrees of cut coarse medium and fine another with a scrub blade in. It takes me less time to replace the blade and wedge, and get it set up to take perfect shavings than it does to re assemble the workings on my ece refrom smoother after sharpening. Its like everything else, its what you get used to. Wooden planes are lighter than iron one's which to me is an advantage. Having said that I have an oak 22 inch jointer which is like heaving a fence post about, BUT it has never once answered back (chattering) and leaves a superb finish. They dont break if you drop them, light to carry about in a bag, perceived as low value, so no one wants to steal them.... :roll:
I have a few metal planes especially block planes but my preference is for a decent woodie :lol:

 

[AndrewP]

As a slight derail :roll: what method of flattening the sole of a 22" woody would those of you who do that sort of thing, advise to a newbie who has no machine planer, who's longest metal plane is a LN low angle jack, and who needs the plane flat to flatten his bench - i.e. he doesn't have a flat bench either!! ](*,)
Andrew

 

[Wiley Horne]

I find that edge jointing with a wooden plane is a never-ending source of pleasure. Even when you get out to the 26" to 30" size, the plane is light and manueverable on the edge. You can feel (and see in the shaving) the exact condition of the edge, and bias the cut to be a little heavier left or right with thumb pressure. Or if you prefer to use plenty of camber and ride the high line right down the board, the woodie is very manueverable and responsive.

To be sure, jointing with a metal plane is fun, too. But the woodie does it for me. I like the totes on woodie jointers also--C&W make one according to a 1750ish English model, and it is the cat's hiney IMO.

Wiley

 

[Anonymous]

Wiley turned me on to wooden planes. I now use wooden planes about 75% of the time. After a few times, blade adjustment becomes easy.

By all means the LN LA Jack will work fine for trueing the sole of a 22" woody. I used the LV LA Jack to true the sole of my 30" jointer.

 

[Anonymous]

As a slight derail :roll: what method of flattening the sole of a 22" woody would those of you who do that sort of thing, advise to a newbie who has no machine planer, who's longest metal plane is a LN low angle jack, and who needs the plane flat to flatten his bench - i.e. he doesn't have a flat bench either!! ](*,)
Andrew

Even if I did have a machine jointer I wouldnt use it to true any plane sole as it is too easy to take off alarming amounts in very little time and this will open up the mouth too much (same as power sharpeners make your saw's evaporate FAST :lol: :lol: ). I use a straight edge (a good german stabila level I use for such jobs) to get a good line. And I use winding sticks (well actually 2 try squares set on edge one at either end with the stock's hanging down) to check for wind (ie if the surface is spiralling like a propeller) I use a 14 inch wood jack, sometimes the ECE reform smoother or even a little blockie for very fine adjustment. And its the same sort of procedure to do the bench top also!!

PS when I said my 22 inch jointer was like a gate post I meant when your carrying it from the shelf to the work, but once its on the edge of a board doing what it does best... I agree with Wiley. It sings and it is a real delight to use.