Hello all,
This is how I've been marking out for making wooden planes. I've worked this out from the WJ Armour article on plane making and the Charles Hayward book on making tools.
http://www.handplane.com/32/practical-plane-making-1/
I have used the terms used by Armour.
I've done it slightly different, Armour marked the bed line on the sole first but I've marked the mouth line first, actually the blade cutting edge line, I'm working on the basis of zero mouth. Also, Armour gives actual measurements, whereas the following will work for any plane size.
The pictures are self explanatory.
First decide where you want the blade edge on the sole to be (mouth line). This will vary depending on the plane you are making, a good idea is to copy an old plane.
Next draw the mouth line across the sole, then on the sides of the plane draw the "pitch", then the "top of the bed line" across the top.
Next draw the "bed line" all the way round. This is the line to chop out to.
Next draw the line for the butments, ie the line for the front of the wedge. I haven't measured old planes for the wedge angle and it's something I should do but I've read it's 10 degrees and it seems to work.
Next draw the line for the front of the throat/escapement. The angle is not critical, I use my eye. Note the front at the mouth slopes backward, the "wear". It allows for flattening of the sole without increasing the mouth as much as if there's no "wear".
Next draw the lines for the width of the blade along the top. It's slightly wider than the blade to allow for sideways adjust of the blade. Last is to draw the lines for the top of the cheeks which run from the outside corner of the butments to the front corners of the throat.
Obviously there's more than one way to do this and this is just one way and might not even be correct!
This is how I've been marking out for making wooden planes. I've worked this out from the WJ Armour article on plane making and the Charles Hayward book on making tools.
http://www.handplane.com/32/practical-plane-making-1/
I have used the terms used by Armour.
I've done it slightly different, Armour marked the bed line on the sole first but I've marked the mouth line first, actually the blade cutting edge line, I'm working on the basis of zero mouth. Also, Armour gives actual measurements, whereas the following will work for any plane size.
The pictures are self explanatory.
First decide where you want the blade edge on the sole to be (mouth line). This will vary depending on the plane you are making, a good idea is to copy an old plane.
Next draw the mouth line across the sole, then on the sides of the plane draw the "pitch", then the "top of the bed line" across the top.
Next draw the "bed line" all the way round. This is the line to chop out to.
Next draw the line for the butments, ie the line for the front of the wedge. I haven't measured old planes for the wedge angle and it's something I should do but I've read it's 10 degrees and it seems to work.
Next draw the line for the front of the throat/escapement. The angle is not critical, I use my eye. Note the front at the mouth slopes backward, the "wear". It allows for flattening of the sole without increasing the mouth as much as if there's no "wear".
Next draw the lines for the width of the blade along the top. It's slightly wider than the blade to allow for sideways adjust of the blade. Last is to draw the lines for the top of the cheeks which run from the outside corner of the butments to the front corners of the throat.
Obviously there's more than one way to do this and this is just one way and might not even be correct!
