Adam W.
A Major Clanger
It's weird.
Wood burning - Lime
- Thread starter mike*
- Start date
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I did explain it - it makes perfect sense.
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
Reminds me of Goldilocks - one too hot, one too cold, one just right!
Maybe Phil hasn't read it and that's why he choses the wrong one?
n.b. the one too hot can be run cooler by closing the dampers so the only one definitely not to choose is one too cold.
Blackswanwood
Still Learning
I was intrigued by this so asked one of my neighbours who runs a rather large and successful supply and installation business for wood burning stoves. His view was that he’d dismiss any of his team who did that. He also feels there is merit in what @Jacob has said when using a steel stove with no firebricks.
It seems opinions differ.
I'll try again. The size of the stove worked out as adequate to raise the temperature to a suitable level for a room of a given size is for the coldest possible weather conditions, which may be just a few days a year. If this stove is chosen, for the rest of the winter you'll either be trying to burn a small fire or trying to damp down one too fierce, one being inefficient use of fuel, the other being damaging to the flue. Economically it makes more sense to use additional heating for the odd day.
Incidentally, this advice was given to me by both suppliers and three licenced fitters, but we might be at cross purposes. All were referring to multi fuel stoves - whether wood burners are different I wouldn't know. (I have a Dowling as well.)
Incidentally, this advice was given to me by both suppliers and three licenced fitters, but we might be at cross purposes. All were referring to multi fuel stoves - whether wood burners are different I wouldn't know. (I have a Dowling as well.)
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
How very dare you to have the temerity to come on here and suggest that there is more than one way of doing a thing.
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
No problem, you close the dampers, that is what they are for. Did you read the instructions leaflet?
Nope.
The "odd day" is when you most need the extra capacity. It might even be the odd week or two in a bad winter.
Have to say - given a cold day it's a great pleasure to let my stove do a full blast for rapid heating. Much quicker room warming than the central heating.
You'd better get in touch with Dowling - they seem to disagree with you. Dowling Stoves - Installation
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Sgian Dubh
Established Member
It's worth bearing in mind that the methodology sanctioned by UK government legislation* (see links below) for calculating biomass moisture content (MC) is use of the 'Wet Basis' (WB) rather than the 'Dry Basis' (DB). The latter Dry Basis methodology is the one woodworkers use for assessing wood MC. Ready to Burn labelling is one example of how this dried wood and other biomass can legally be sold.
For me, what's interesting about using the WB (aka green basis) for calculating dried biomass MC is that the results are always lower than the MC results given by using the DB methodology. For instance, to take the figure you gave of 20%MC WB being the result of testing biomass samples equates to 25%MC DB. Similarly, 15%MC WB is equivalent to 17.6MC DB, and 10%MC WB is the same as 11.1%MC DB.
I can't offer any comments on the discussion that has evolved in later parts of the thread about stoves, their use and efficiency and the burn quality of different wood species or other biomass material. I don't have a stove and don't burn biomass for heating. I might have posted earlier if I hadn't been away this past week and only spotted this thread about an hour ago. Slainte.
*The Air Quality (Domestic Solid Fuels Standards) (England) Regulations 2020. This legislation applies specifically to England, and not to the devolved nations. The Air Quality (Domestic Solid Fuels Standards) (England) Regulations 2020
*See also Selling wood for domestic use in England. Selling wood for domestic use in England
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I'm sorry but that's total nonsense.
Are woodburner salesmen also qualified meteoroligists? How do they know that you'll only need your woodburner at full capacity for a few days a year?
Every winter is totally different to the one that preceeded it these days.
I'd be pretty annoyed if during a three week long cold snap my woodburner wasn't large enough to heat my house.
Blackswanwood
Still Learning
me jotul f500,very good to, but to try and keep it in overnight it needs loading right up with good quality logs, damper closing, then the glass is filthy next day i have a 8 inch pumice chimney flue in good condition in a bungalow. can i ask what is your procedure please
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
I never bother trying to burn all night the UK is never that cold. Don't see the point. Just have to have small stuff and fire-lighters, or paper, on hand.
I think it's a hang over from when fuel was cheap and people could afford to do it.
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Krome10
Established Member
I agree. Wood stoves are so quick and easy to get going that I really so no need to keep it in overnight. Especially seeing as it makes the glass dirty and can potentially have ill effect on the flue....
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
Well yes.
Had proof of the virtue of fast-burn-small-fire when stove expert came to clean/test for information for the buyers. He said our flue was a marvel to behold not having been cleaned for 10 years, no tars, no sign of internal damage, joints all sound etc.
Burning books at the moment as doing a big clear out.
Started with stack of Methodist hymn books which had been left by previous owners. Must be at least Fahrenheit 451º in there
!!Kept a sample for old times sake.
never thought of that source of fuel,have to ask about.Well yes.
Had proof of the virtue of fast-burn-small-fire when stove expert came to clean/test for information for the buyers. He said our flue was a marvel to behold not having been cleaned for 10 years, no tars, no sign of internal damage, joints all sound etc.
Burning books at the moment as doing a big clear out.
Started with stack of Methodist hymn books which had been left by previous owners. Must be at least Fahrenheit 451º in there
Kept a sample for old times sake.
with underfloor heating the whole floor area is covered, does that make sense
alf48
Member
hi Mike, lime is good for carving and turning, but I'd cut them into manageable pieces, the larger ones say into four, taking out the center (the pith ) to reduce cracking,,. You could turn the wood green ( plenty of videos on YouTube ) or store them somewhere away from heat, or to promote spalting, I've got a damp corner of my garden excellent for spalting add a couple of spades of well-rotted compost. there's that French turner who stores wood in barrels of water, ( YouTube again ) well have fun ,,Alf
Mine is the F600, double door front and side door, I don't clear out the ash at the bottom of the fire grate and just put a 500 long well seasoned Oak log on from the side door, close the air inlet and then open it a very small amount, the down wash facility works from the air tubes above the burning logs, flue is 150mm and about 8M high
RE Lime for burning - if the wood is in rounds and easily accessible then it's a no brainer- I wouldn't even question the quality or otherwise of the wood- a lot of the work has been done for you ! All wood will burn OK for domestic heating if well dried- OK some is better than others but we can't all just burn prime bone dry ash every winter evening ! Just split it down, dry for at least a year and mix with something else. I have been running a Jotul F 400 for 25 years, never bought wood yet - I do live in the countryside- but I never turn anything down, which ensures people have me in mind when they need windblowns removing etc.
BTW , one of the uses for Lime wood- a local yard told me this when they got some- would be to sell it on to barrel bung makers- a pretty small market I guess , but due to its slight spongy nature , very little grain pattern , and non toxic nature, it is perfect for knocking into beer and whisky casks.
BTW , one of the uses for Lime wood- a local yard told me this when they got some- would be to sell it on to barrel bung makers- a pretty small market I guess , but due to its slight spongy nature , very little grain pattern , and non toxic nature, it is perfect for knocking into beer and whisky casks.
