Will I need a cyclone?

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Cheers Ian, It sounds like you're bang on the money there mate. But in my case (like most others I assume) I'm still in the dark as what I can do to maximise my >1 micron dust collection. Exhausting the the whole lot outside after the chips have been sorted would be great, but I don't think it would be feasible in one of the workshops I'm looking at, as it's situated in amongst residential properties as well as Industrial/ Commercial ones. The noise is not a problem, but the dust would be.

It sounds like I NEED to get a cyclone then, but how often do I have to attend to changing filters etc? how much will that cost each time? With all the ducting, air filters etc, I imagine it's going to be the thick end of £2000.

I will replace my current shop vac with this one when I get more free money in the future.

But for now it's looking like this:

Cyclone £1400

2 of these Air Filters £460

100mm ducting kit £118

What do you have to do about grounding the ducting so that static doesn't build up?

(I already have a half mask respirator)

What does everyone reckon? Overkill? Is there an easier, cheaper solution?

I'd love to build my own, but I'm not that good with technical stuff regarding that area.

Sorry for all the endless questions, but it's such a mine-field. Someone that knows a bit more should start a petition for HSE or someone similar to see.

Cheers_Dan. :)

edit: links now working
 
No problem on the questions Dan, but most of those links are not opening up to anything.

A shop vac as you know is designed to vacuum up dust, or to deliver the much smaller volume of air movement required by a hand tool like a router. It's not going to shift enough to collect much from a floor machine - as before that only happens when there's enough air moving to create a decent sized low pressure volume around the source of dust.

Going the DIY route is going to be significantly cheaper, but it does require some study and getting stuck into the (basic) numbers so you don't boob in selecting the bits needed to sort out a properly functional design. There's lots of info on the Pentz pages, albeit it takes a lot of ploughing through.

A very superficial sequence to pull together the elements of a DIY unit might be more or less as follows:

1. Scavenge an LP fan/blower of the right type (whether part of a stock bit of kit or not - they are used in industry too) that's likely to shift enough air. The minimum if you are going to go a mobile unit serving one machine at a time with say 2m of 6in flexible is probably around 2HP. Ideally a bit larger, say 2kW plus if you don't want to be too hobbled on duct length. Go for the higher number if you plan the extra duct length needed to give the option of exhausting outside. It's not an exact indication of likely fan capability, but HP is at least a very solid indicator.

This is the type of impeller found on these LP fans, they are used all over the place in industry. It's important to get the right type. The size shown needs around 5hp so its bigger than the minimum needed here: http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/index.p ... ucts_id=11

Bill Pentz lists good data on fan types, sizes and sources on his basics page.

2. The blowers on some recent dust collection units are types that generate more suction, and the resulting greater pressure drop seems to allow smaller duct/hose sizes (at the expense of higher air velocities and all that entails) than those found on your typical LP fan/ bag filter/dust system. e.g. some of the recent Record Power units. Even so roughly the same sort HP is going to be required.

I don't know how good a basis for an effective system these are. As before the others may be able to comment on how these do in practice, and what sort of ducting options they can run.

3. Source some flex hose/ducting in the right size. i.e 6in in the case of a low pressure radial fan, probably smaller in the case of the above higher pressure/higher velocity units above if its confirmed they actually do shift enough air to properly gather in fine dust (and not just chips) at a machine.

Make sure that this cross section of duct runs clear through to the cutting area - including through the machine hoods which may need modification.

Flex hose is not too expensive at from memory around £12/m from most woodworking machinery places, and EBay. Rigid galvanised ducting is cheapest in spiral wound form from an industrial ducting supplier - it's again very cheap.

4. As before more HP is required if you want to install a system with longer ducting runs in a larger shop- the Pentz link I posted before shows a very easily understandable table listing HP/acceptable cfm/length of duct run.

5. Select a suitable cartridge filter - to at least HEPA 15 efficiency. Mine has two 262-5001 cartridges from Donaldson Filtration's UK branch in Leicester. I paid about €98 each (exc VAT), but I think there are some better priced and more small order friendly suppliers of industrial filters than that. Somebody posted the name of a web shop doing industrial HEPA standard filters in the UK in the past year I think.

6. Get a cyclone built to the Pentz dimensions. It cost me about €120 locally to have one rolled and seamed (I'm fitting the inlet) in something like 22G galvanised steel by a local ductwork establishment.

7. There will be some other bits needed as well like a chip collection drum, some sort of framework, hose clips and so on.

That's roughly one DIY route to a low cost minimal one machine at a time mobile version of a fan/cyclone/filter/chip collection unit based on the Pentz principles (mobile because it keeps the hose short enough) - but it'd at least be one delivering enough puff to do a good job

If DIY isn't attractive for whatever reason you can buy buy something that seems very like it (Bill has had a big influence on the suppliers of commercial systems I think) in the form of one of these ready made mobile filter and cyclone units from Axminster Tools: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-pl ... rod795045/

Stuff like fan/motor spec, filter spec, filter life, spare filter costs and so on on these would need careful checking out. The cyclone looks a little short and dumpy compared to the Pentz format, and it mightn't be the plan to try to run more than one machine at a time from the bigger one one despite the forked hose connection fitted to it - but the chances are that one or the other would do a very decent job.
 
I buy my spiral ducting on ebay it is not expensive.

There is a seller on there who sells it for air conditioning but also sells the elbows, branches and gates. Ventilation Centre Online

The real trick is as others have said to make sure the extractor is capable of handling the length of pipe run to the machine.

When I sorted my extraction out this time last year I made sure that I got rid of all the flexi hose I could.

As well the 2 bag machine I have a single bag one on spindle and tennoner, this was all in flexi hose, I changed to spiral duct as part of the upgrade and was totally amazed at the increase in suction.

The only bits I now have are on the planer and a couple of 6" pieces on a couple of other machines to join them to the system.

Tom
 
Cheers Ian,

Very helpful and concise, as you can see from my now amended links, the Axy one that you've recommended was the one I was going for. I'd really like to do it myself, via the DIY route. But as I've said I'm RUBBISH at anything electrical and if anything went Pete Tong on it I wouldn't know where to start (saying that I've got a mate who's an engineer who might be able to rig something for me, although he doesn't work in this area he's pretty apt.) The good thing about buying from Axminster is their support.

If my engineer mate can't sort me out, I might put a post out seeing if someone will make one for me. As long as it's well under the £1400 mark that Axy want I'd go for that.

Again thanks for all your info, Muchly appreciated_Dan.
 
Just looked at the Axminster one.

You will want to check you can put a bag in the drum, otherwise you will get dust everywhere when you empty it.

The Oneida one you can get a bit of kit to enable you to do it.

Tom
 
Cheers Tom, first I've heard of Oneida. They don't have a price list on their UK site though, I'll give them a call on Monday and see what the sketch is.

Cheers_Dan.
 
Ta Tom. Oneida is another source of the filter + cyclone systems in a variety of power levels and configurations. Their main website is US based, but they also have a guy representing them in the UK.

I don't know if there are more over here, but there definitely are several more in the US

Not to be picky, but I'm not so much recommending the Axminster units Dan as suggesting they ought based on a quick look at the info on the web page to be worth properly checking out.

There's lots of stuff about that's cheaper, but the factors that seem to be critical to getting a high efficiency and top performing low pressure system together are the following - and they don't seem to come much cheaper than the routes discussed (make me a liar somebody please!) :

(a) enough fan HP and cfm/airflow (but be careful of the dodgy numbers quoted by some makers for these),
(b) a fine enough level of filter efficiency to be safe (HEPA 15 or better) with enough area not to blind too quickly (two cartridges rather than one are desirable, but probably not an option on a mobile unit)
(c) an efficient cyclone to drop out most of the dust before the filters without restricting the flow too much), and
(d) enough spare fan HP to run both the suction side and the extra duct length in exhausting outside if you your layout and location make that possible.

It'd be interesting to get feedback from some users on the big Axminster units.....
 
ondablade
says
(a) enough fan HP and cfm/airflow (but be careful of the dodgy numbers quoted by some makers for these),

When I was trying to figure this out last year, I found some of the figures for the cheaper units high compared to the more expensive units.

The Rojek unit seems to have a smaller airflow than the cheap units.

This is the single bag unit I have and it is a lot better than the cheaper units.

After asking around the extraction companies I was told the airflow can be worked out using different variables which means the cheap units can seem to be very powerful when in fact over a pipe run they loss in suction can be a lot greater.

It will need someone with more knowledge than me to explain this.

Tom
 
Don't forget you will be subject to an LEV test, check out all the information on the hse website.
Simon
 
tomatwark":1sxp7h57 said:
Just looked at the Axminster one.

You will want to check you can put a bag in the drum, otherwise you will get dust everywhere when you empty it.

I saw it at W10, and yes it does take (and in fact requires) a bag.
 
Hi Tom. Drawing on not just Bill Pentz again but also on some very informative threads at the US Sawmill Creek forum it seems that the use of test methods designed to deliver misleading air flow (CFM) and motor HP numbers is rampant, especially on lower end hobby systems. (and not just on dust systems, but also on compressors and pretty much any other bits of hobby market equipment you care to think of)

Bill's testing (see his dust collection basics page) found that for example the only way many of these units could make the advertised cfm numbers was with no inlet ducting attached. (hence with no inlet restriction i.e. no ductwork at all) The result was that the motors rapidly burned out - because they were drawing way over their rated amps. i.e. the makers were quoting 'flash' readings obtained in this highly misleading manner as the real world capability of the units.

Remember that fans draw less power as you choke down the inlet - so they get away with undersized fans by fitting restrictive inlet ducting - so the unit you buy can't possibly do the claimed CFM, even less so when you hook up restrictive undersized ducting and machine hoods most use.

He tells the story of a well know US mag about ten years ago involving him in setting up test methods for dust system fans. Pretty much every single unit they brought in for a group test did way below its rated CFM, and then burned out its motor when run without ducting in an attempt to get the claimed numbers. Then the word came down from on high and the test was never published - with advertising revenues stated as the reason why.

There are of course standard testing and data presentation formats for fans - e.g. fan curves (graphs which record cfm against differing levels of suction or delta P) but these are often ignored.

Cheap motors claiming more power than they deliver are another problem. While outright false claims apparently are made, the weasel words are often inserted here by fudging test methods. For example there's frequent blurring between input power and output power - with the latter clearly being what we need to drive a system. Another angle leaving endless room for fiddling is duty ratings - the question of how much run time the motor can tolerate at its rated output.

A well informed poster explained this and some of the other angles on Sawmill Creek in recent weeks, and linked to a woodworking website with more on the topic - a quick search should bring it up.
 
I think and I am sure I will be put right on this you only need a LEV if you are employing staff.

That being said it would pay to try to get you system to a standard to pass an LEV test as you are breathing the dust in and also because the machine hoods must work correctly it keeps the workshop cleaner.

Tom
 
Thanks to Simon [OryxDesign] for the reference to LEV and HSE. HSE guidance WS24 for sawing machines, recommends that table saws needs crown guard extraction too and radial/SCM saws need underneath dust capture as well as a rear hood that accommodates the flexibility of the saw's positioning capability.

Having read the Bill Pentz stuff before it did seem like overkill for hobbyists with 5hp motors and 150mm extraction pipes, however for the reasons pointed out by Yetloh, any economy is a false one.

My thanks to the OP for raising this important issue and to Ondablade and tomatwark for their contributions, RogerS's suggestion of a mask is sensible but I know that I will either forget to put it on, or I will take it off too soon to get the benefit.

Simon
 
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