Why is the bandsaw blade squeaking??

[Ives]

Just tried my new Tuffsaws blade and it cuts straight! But, after a few milimeters it makes a horrible loud squeak, so I've stopped. I've heard something about using beeswax on bandsaw blades but no idea how or why. Is this why? Should I wax the blade? I have no idea, just totally guessing but I'm sure you all know!

What I was trying to do is cut a maple chick shape down the length of it, to make 2 thinner chicks, and where it started to squeak it's just over 2 inches.

 

[jimi43]

You're cutting up wooden chicks and you want to know why they're squeaking!!!! :mrgreen:

Jim

 

[Ives]

I knew someone would say something like that!!!!!! Ha ha ha!

 

[tool613]

:mrgreen: :lol:




jack

 

[9fingers]

Sounds like the blade is too wide for the radius that you are trying to cut. Or does is squeak on a straight cut too???

Bob

I see that you are re-sawing the chicks not doing radius cuts.

My second guess is that the blade is not cutting parallel to the fence. Needs setting up as Blister has suggested.

Bob

 

[Blister]

Have you set the saw up with the new blade on ?

Tracking , guide bushes either side of the blade - top and under the table and also the rear bearings behind the blade ?

and is it the correct blade for cutting with the grain ?

 

[Ives]

All I did was stick the new blade in because I was so anxious to see if it made the saw cut straight, which it does! I haven't done any of that set up stuff yet. Do you think that's why? I'll do it later on when my husband is home so he can look after the kids.....or do it for me!! It sounds so complicated and confusing!

I don't know if it's the correct blade, it's a 1/4" 10tpi, the hobby kind. I also bought a 6tpi, would that be better?

 

[RogerP]

I think 10tpi is too fine for resawing - my guess is the sawdust in not clearing sufficiently quickly. Try your 6tpi blade see if that is better or speak to Ian at TuffSaws (07896-058499) to see what he may recommend.

 

[beech1948]

I think that the most likely cause is that you too many teeth in contact with the wood at any one time. A 10ppi or 6ppi blade 1/4 wide is good for shaping tight curves and the material is not very thick when laid flat on the table.. To rip apart to get two of something that is maybe 3 inches or more deep you should use a 3 ppi blade. Les teeth in play, bigger gullets to carry away saw dust and faster more accurate cutting. A blade wider than 1/4 inch say a 1/2 inch blade would be stiffer and track more easily.

regards
Alan

 

[tool613]

What they said

Generally less teeth per in is used in re sawing to give room (in the tooth gullet) between the teeth to clear saw dust. ,but your saw is small i take it. it could just be to much for it and you have too many teeth on the blade. I use a 4 point blade for that kind of work.

jack

 

[9fingers]

3rd attempt :lol:

For resawing you need the widest blade that the machine will tension properly. Perversly, this is probably one size narrower than the widest that will fit on the machine.

I see Roger is beating me to it with tooth pitch advice as well as consulting the bandsaw blade meitster. If Ian has one of his thin kerf super tuff blades in your size these thse re-saw beautifully.

hth

Bob

 

[sparkus88]

I had a similar problem and found it was the rear bearing guide squeaking so i lubricated it and backed it off very slightly and that has solved it.

 

[Ives]

Where's the rear bearing guide?

 

[sparkus88]

in the picture the larger bearing of the 3 is the rear guide yours might look different. For example on mine the blade runs against the outside edge of bearing rather than against the side face as in the picture. What band saw do you have?

 

[Ives]

Wow, thanks! I have a Black and Decker DN339. It's old.

 

[9fingers]

Not a manual that you were searching for but there is a diagram and a list of some spares (very expensive though!)

http://www.powertoolspares.com/tool/bla ... e1/spares/

hth

Bob

 

[jimi43]

Hi Ives

I think the B&D DN339 is very similar to the Burgess...a bit larger maybe...

The back bearing is the one that rides behind the blade (non-tooth side)...you can just see it poking out in this pic and should just rotate when the blade is put under pressure of the cutting of the wood.

Make sure that the side guides to not touch the teeth on the blade when this happens...push against the blade when off and check.

Jim

 

[Steve Maskery]

For resawing you need few teeth with large gullets. Yours is far too fine. 3 TPI would be more suitable.
S