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HawkEye

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Hello guys. This is a very simple question really. I'm fixing up a compost container which was made by someone else using treated softwood. All I have to do now is fix a new roof on it. What would be the best sheeting material to use, strand board or plywood? I will possibly install it at a slight gradient so that water does on pool on it which will help prolong the life of it.

Coincidentally I thought about using treated timber planks for the roof but its difficult finding the proper size I want for the right price.
 
You could use OSB or WBP ply and cover it in roofing felt.

It should slope anyway to shed water so there is no point even trying to fit it flat.
Make sure that the roof over hangs the compost box sufficently to shelter the box sides from direct rain and on the drip edge (the lowest edge where the rain will drip off) it is a longer over hang so that rainwater bounce is clear of the box side too.

Also consider where the run off of rain water will go. If the ground has any gradient on it set the roof so the rain will run off the roof and then land where it will run away from the compost box and not towards it.
 
Use galvanised clout nails. The ones with big heads on. You can get very short ones that are hard to hold and hit if your boards are not very thick.

Use long nose pliers to hold the nail or push the nail through a slot in a bit of card to hold it.

Make sure that if you need more then one width of felt that you start at the bottom of the slope and overlap the first run with the felt above.
 
HawkEye":22v7wk4p said:
What are the advantages of galvanised clout nails over galvanised screws?

Big flat head on the clout nail. Screws could tear the felt as you turn it and if you used countersink ones then they would pull through the felt.
 
(to continue the signature above)


...and if you can't teach teachers be an inspector!
 
Clout nails will help to prevent rain water from getting in, where it otherwise may be a problem with screws or ordinary wire nails.
 
OPJ":317ivifg said:
Clout nails will help to prevent rain water from getting in, where it otherwise may be a problem with screws or ordinary wire nails.

Yes, i think the idea behind the large head is two fold. Firstly its a large surface area for yout to hit, secondly its a large surface area to contact the felt and stop it moving and lastly its a large surface area that generally imprints into the felt to hopefully create a water tight seal from the hole its made through the felt to the board underneath.

I am always wary of putting holes through felt paranoid about it being the first place a leak will appear, i have seen many shed roofs with leaks like this. My method when i did my workshop (can not afford to do slate at the moment which is what i really want) with felt was start at eaves level come up one width of felt, use clout nails at the top overlap edge. With the second piece you overlap the required distance normally around 4" but first i put down some cold felt adhesive this glues over the top of the puncture holes from the previous nailings and sticks the next layer to it. The only water that may try and enter is driving rain in an upward direction and hopefully that is stopped by the adhesive. The ridge lap is fully glued.

I am totally happy with this and i dont effectively have any punctures through the completed covering.

Cheers

Mav
 
I replaced one of these last year for a customer, and used WBP covered with roofing felt. In addition to clout nails, I also used felt adhesive to ensure a good bond with the ply. Felt folded and tacked to the underside, new hinges and catch - job done. My visit was closely followed by pest control, as I noticed rat runs leading into the compost bin, and traces of them inside it.
 

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