Which screws and size for 18mm MFC?

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rupert

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Hi all,

I'm soon to be making some fitted wardrobes out of 18mm MFC.

What is the best screw to use, one that will drive straight in without pre-drilling?

Also what size should I use? So head size as well as length..

Thanks
 
I do a lot of work in mdf and I always pre-drill, especially when going into an edge. Lots of different types will work - I've used plasterboard screws, Spax and Screwfix gold secrews, usually 4mm and length to suit.
 
Not had much experience, but I think nearly every time I have attempted to screw into the edge of chipboard or MDF without a pilot hole it has ended in tears.
 
Hi, Rupert

Face to face, or face to edge?

Pete
 
Hi Pete,

It would be simple butt joints. I'm just going to be making boxes out of 18mm mfc for wardrobes.. So face to edge? If that makes sense..?
 
Louise...I saw a pro fitted wardrobe team at work once, and they didn't do any pilot hole, they just screwed them straight through and the screw countersunk itself too..
 
Hi, Rupert

50mm chipboard screws or any other 3.5mm coarse threaded screws in pre drilled and countersunk holes, and keep away from the edges of the board.

Pete
 
rupert":3rhctiix said:
Louise...I saw a pro fitted wardrobe team at work once, and they didn't do any pilot hole, they just screwed them straight through and the screw countersunk itself too..


Don't sound like pros to me.

Pete
 
Hmmm...so you are saying they should have piloted? These guys install hundreds of wardrobes a year and the workmanship is of good quality..

The guys at this website say the following:

"build the cabinets with screws. Still probably the quickest way since as soon as a screw is driven home it is ready and the cabinet won’t need clamping. (When we say screws we mean hi-tech modern screws that are so good you can drive them into the edge of an MDF board without the need to pre-drill – example here. You won’t be able to buy these in B&Q and they cost 3 times the cost of a conventional wood screw. We include these screws in our kits.)"

http://diywardrobes.co.uk/wp/?paged=2
 
I class myself as an amateur, but I still pre-drill mdf or chipboard and clamp the 2 pieces together before screwing.
As I have found it's a reliable method that works for me.
Also it's worth bearing in mind that the quality of available mdf and chipboard is variable.
 
Hi, Rupert

Still not convinced its the best way, quickest maybe.

Pete
 
rupert":8x8xq3x2 said:
Louise...I saw a pro fitted wardrobe team at work once, and they didn't do any pilot hole, they just screwed them straight through and the screw countersunk itself too..

That seems like a very un-pro like action to me, but then having worked in the construction industry for many years I have seen a HUGE decline in standards of workmanship so what may now pass for a professional would some years ago have been called a cowboy.

I am new to woodworking so do not pretend to have the answers, but as I have said almost every time I have put screws into the edge of chipboard or MDF it has split right away or has split within a short period of time. Given that it takes but a few seconds to fire a pilot hole in before putting the screw in it just seems quite pointless to skip the step to me ;)
 
OK i think i'll stick to using the countersink, pilot then drive home method...Maybe these guys need to save time and so use expensive screws so they dont need to pilot, but i'm not too bothered so will use normal cheaper screws.

Are quicksilver screws good? Or should I go for spax of gold screws from screwfix? is 6mm*2inch a good screw to use? Or go longer?


http://www.screwfix.com/p/quicksilver-c ... tid=594032
 
Hmmm...so you are saying they should have piloted? These guys install hundreds of wardrobes a year and the workmanship is of good quality..

I think you may be fighting a losing battle here. I have read the page you linked to and can obviously see where you have got your information from. However it is not just about stopping the edge from splitting, it is also about direction and quality of fixing. In other words the pre drilled hole makes sure the screw is exactly where it is supposed to be, and that it is grabbing enough without compacting the MDF/MFC etc etc around it. I have fitted quite a few wardrobes and kitchens made with MDF and though I usually use a KREG I have been forced to butt joint and screw through from a side a few times. I would not dream of doing this without using a drill/countersink and I do not think I am alone.

The folk of this parish are so up to date with new tools and materials they know about new arrivals before the stuff has come off the production line. Literally in some cases. So I would be suprised if there was a screw in existence that someone here has not tried and got an opinion on.

The forum here, and other such like, are a font of knowledge and I use them as a resource to learn from. I am all for cutting corners when there are no consequences, but I am not sure it is a very common occurence.

Rupert, do you make kitchens yourself? Is it something you are getting into? (Sorry if this is a daft question, I haven't read many of your threads I don't think). Perhaps you could try these screws yourself and give us your opinion. I fear it may be a ploy to make people more confident about putting them together themselves????

Anyway.my 2p and all that.

Neil

PS - An impact driver will drive a screw below the surface as though it has been countersunk, but the finish surrounding the screw head is not so good and you are also forcing the wood below the head into itself, which I doubt is a good thing.
 
6 x 50 is a HUGE screw, thats the sort of thing I use to mount shelving for my cats on brick walls!!!

I would have though that 3.5mm or 4mm would be more likely, depends really on what it is you are making I guess.
 
Hey Neil,


I'm not a kitchen fitted, just a hobbist diyer, I've made face frame wardrobes in the past and saw the finish of a frameless wardrobe at a friends house so wanted to give these a shot in my new house.

I agree with you about the knowledge on this forum, so now agree that these guys who were doing the wardrobes are probably not as pro as I thought they were!! Although the end finish was good, but weather they stand the test of time is another question.

I'm converted now, i'm going to pilot/countersink first :)

Louise - ok I'll go for 4mm, what about the length?
 
Again it depends on what you are doing, and of course the number of screws..

I think I would normally aim for about 25mm gripping, so a 4 x 50 ish maybe

I have not really made anything which needs to look pretty or where the screws would be visible (cat things often covered in carpet) so I tend to use probably more screws than required so can get away with a bit less grip per screw.
 
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