Which router for guitar building?

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I've built quite a few guitars with my trend T5. Most operations in solid body guitar making can be done with a 1/4" router, but for hogging out large cavities and cutting the outline of the body a 1/2" router would be helpful.

I have only had limited experience with routing guitars on the router table, and I didn't like it at all. Unless you have a well setup table and experience of using it, clamping the body down and using a hand held router is far more forgiving, especially since routing a guitar body without expensive, long, doubled ended bearing bits will always involve making climb cuts.
 
Yes they are 110volt just need to be aware of the wire colours, in fact I have imported my 15 1/2" thicknesser and my 8" jointer both Delta and both imported from the states nearly 10 years ago and still performing like new, I also have Porter cable belt sander, 4" circular saw , 6" orbital sander and all my Jessem router table bits have come from the states all cheaper and all better than most things you can get from this country.
 
Having built both an electric and an acoustic guitar, I can quite categorically say that a router is very useful for both, be it routing cavities, body template, trussrod channel (elec and acoustic), binding channels, braces, head thicknessing, form-following routing for an archtop. Etc.

I would also say that bottom-bearing template following isnt too bad, but a further option would be to use a straight bit with a bearing at the top of the cutting part, and a top-template.
DS tape to hold template (body/cavity etc) to wood, and any means of holding wood to bench that you are comfortable with. Ive not used a table router, though can quite see that advantage having one would bring.

I have an older BnQ router, which has a sloooooow start up and sticky plunge, but seems to do the job, and recently bought a Makita doobree which is quite the whippets wedding tackle. It's like the difference between a Ford and an Audi. Both get you from A to B, both are probably reliable, but it just feels so much nicer and easier with the Audi. (btw, I have a Ford :) )
I have also used a DeWalt model (cant remember which one) and it was rather nice to, but havent used a Trend.

As far as cutters go, as said above, speak to Wealden Tools. I did for the first time last week, and they could not have been more helpful (actually the same goes for Axminster in the helpful stakes) and a rapid delivery too.

Which cutters? Well, apart from bearing guided straight cutters, you may need a variety of roundover cutters depending on what you want to do with the edges of the body, and a small rebate bit with a mixture of bearings (Stewmac in the states, or Touchstone Tonewoods or David Dyke in the uK would be best here), a 1/4" cutter for the trussrod channel.
That should do, I think. But there are others on here with considerably more experience than I in luthiery.

Adam
 
Mooeee":qx0nqb9u said:
Yes they are 110volt just need to be aware of the wire colours, in fact I have imported my 15 1/2" thicknesser and my 8" jointer both Delta and both imported from the states nearly 10 years ago and still performing like new, I also have Porter cable belt sander, 4" circular saw , 6" orbital sander and all my Jessem router table bits have come from the states all cheaper and all better than most things you can get from this country.

You ever been hit by import duty?

Luke.
 
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