Which router for guitar building?

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Lucretia

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Leeds, UK
Hi,

On talking to guys on TDPRI, the usual advice is don't get a plunge router and buy a PC 690, in this country, neither are an option. So, I'm almost considering a stupidly priced DeWalt (not as stupidly priced as a Bosch though). Also, I'm wondering whether Trend are a good make.

Can anyone give me any other makes/models that are worth the money and don't cost the earth?

I've no idea how many bodies I'll make, maybe 2, maybe more, who knows? I don't :D

Thanks,
Luke.
 
Never having made a muscial instrument I would first ask you what operations do you wish to carry out?

Roy.
 
MickCheese":5nfq73tu said:
Do you want to make solid bodies or acoustics?

Mick

No offence, but I would've thought that was obvious, as per the nature of the question. Solid bodies, hence the need for a router. I mean, I could do it by hand :shock:

Thanks,
Luke.
 
Digit":ifl3hnva said:
Never having made a muscial instrument I would first ask you what operations do you wish to carry out?

Roy.

Follow a template around the edge of the body, control/pickup cavities. Possibly a neck, if I decide to try building a neck.

Thanks,
Luke.
 
On the assumption that the body is quite thick I would suggest that a half inch router would be necessary to obtain the length of cutter required, and a router table would be a better bet I should think, though the pick up holes could be done with the same template using a hand held router.

Roy.
 
Digit":1cmc6y7e said:
On the assumption that the body is quite thick I would suggest that a half inch router would be necessary to obtain the length of cutter required, and a router table would be a better bet I should think, though the pick up holes could be done with the same template using a hand held router.

Roy.

Yup, is it worth picking up a 2nd hand Trend router? Are they any good? Or should I spend more money on a new one? I just can't really get my head around paying £300 for a bosch (GMF one).

Luke.
 
I'd say no. For me the stability of a router table and a cheapo half inch router would be perfectly satisfactory. Decent power, a half inch cutter with a ball race to follow the template should see you home and dry.

Roy.
 
Digit":3nat7k90 said:
I'd say no. For me the stability of a router table and a cheapo half inch router would be perfectly satisfactory. Decent power, a half inch cutter with a ball race to follow the template should see you home and dry.

Roy.

What's a decent power? 1100W? Does it need to be variable speed?

A ball race? You mean the bearing? Gotcha.

Thanks,
Luke.
 
I've never built a guitar but watched a few videos, and I'd say you'd want both a large model for the hefty work but a smaller one for doing the cavities. You may find this little video selection interesting (3 Parts):

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/birth-of-a-guitar-pt-1/


The most important question is how much are you looking to spend? Routers all do the same job, a £20 will cut the same as a £400 with the same bit, its how easy they are to set up and the accuracy you can obtain that will change. At the end of a day, a cheap 1/4 inch from your local DIY and a cheap 1/2 from the same will do you. Get a few good bits from http://www.wealdentool.com/ don't buy set of bits, just buy singularly when you need them.

Hope this helps!
 
1100 watts plus will do. Take a look a router cutters from any supplier, Axminster will do, you would need a cutter long enough to span the thickness of timber that you wish to rout. The ball race is fixed on the lower end of the cutter and runs along the template, thus producing an exact copy of the template.
If you use a hand held router the timber, plus template, needs to be secure or will run away from you when you start cutting, also as the template would be on the underside of the guitar body you can't see what you are doing. Putting the router into a table solves all that.
Recommend what, router or cutters?

Roy.
 
Do you intend trying this by hand, which I would not recommend, or in a table.
If in a table any cheapo half inch should do the job.
The main difference between cheap and dear is the smoothness of the plunge, (not that important in a table IMO) and build quality.
In a table it's just a driving mecahism, ergonomics, comfort, easy of use of controls, weight etc matter not.
If Ax are still doing their half incher, I've got one, that'll do in a table, variable speed and soft start, what more do you need?
If you insist on doing it by hand I would suggest that you try local suppliers and check the weight etc before you buy.

Roy.
 
Digit":g6se2slv said:
In a table it's just a driving mecahism, ergonomics, comfort, easy of use of controls, weight etc matter not.
If Ax are still doing their half incher, I've got one, that'll do in a table, variable speed and soft start, what more do you need?

I take it you mean Axminster? All the routers on their site are known brands.

Thanks,
Luke.
 
Why don't you import a PC 690, even after shipping and import duuty and vat it works out better than paying loads for a dewalt.

With the Dollar getting up around the $1.55 mark it's a good option. you get some really good deals on the Porter Cable range and sets with motor and two or three bodies are only around the $199.00 mark.
I have imported all my routers from the States.

Cheers

Mooeee
 
Mooeee":11ijx8al said:
Why don't you import a PC 690, even after shipping and import duuty and vat it works out better than paying loads for a dewalt.

With the Dollar getting up around the $1.55 mark it's a good option. you get some really good deals on the Porter Cable range and sets with motor and two or three bodies are only around the $199.00 mark.
I have imported all my routers from the States.

Cheers

Mooeee

And what do you use to power them?

Luke.
 

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