woodfarmer
Established Member
I have used a small angle grinder with flexible backing pad, but at 4 1/2 inches it is too big to fit into the curves, I have seen a 2 inch one from styles bad bates but are there better alternatives ?
Whats good for power sanding the insides of bowls?
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John. B
Established Member
The Simon Hope pro rotary sander. Simply the best!!!!!!!!!
John. B
John. B
Random Orbital Bob
Established Member
I've used both manual rotary sanders like the simon Hope design but now I use an 18V drill with a Velcro covered conical shaped arbor (also from Simon Hope).
It can still be tricky to get into tight spots in bowls with small openings but generally it works well. Simon Hope also sells little sacrificial Velcro pads for the arbor so they get chewed rather than the arbor padding itself and the end pads are much cheaper to replace.
It can still be tricky to get into tight spots in bowls with small openings but generally it works well. Simon Hope also sells little sacrificial Velcro pads for the arbor so they get chewed rather than the arbor padding itself and the end pads are much cheaper to replace.
chipmunk
Established Member
I use a Bosch 10.8V drill/driver with a 2" pad because there's no wire to get tangled and it's also nice and compact for stuffing inside bowls but one of the demonstrators at our club used a corded angle drill with 2" pad and the reduced back-to-front distance appeared to be a big help for access. I'm on the lookout for a cheap 10.8 Bosch angled drill/driver but they are not cheap enough for me to take a punt yet.
I have a passive sander too and that's fine on the outside where there are no dead rotation spots but it's pretty tricky (almost impossible?) to passive sand the middle of the inside of a bowl where everything's moving relatively slowly.
HTH
Jon
I have a passive sander too and that's fine on the outside where there are no dead rotation spots but it's pretty tricky (almost impossible?) to passive sand the middle of the inside of a bowl where everything's moving relatively slowly.
HTH
Jon
CHJ
Established Member
+1 for using a slow speed cordless drill driver with Simon Hope pads, both with work revolving slowly and with it stationary.
I have used friction driven sanders in the past, still have Sorby and Grip a Disk versions but rarely used, plain bearing versions are a waste of space in my experience as the grit and dust soon wreck the shaft & bearing, sealed bearing versions that will allow easy replacement pad changes seem to go on for ever.
My reason for not using friction driven is that I find they spin far to fast for good cool cutting action unless I'm very careful and are no use for spot sanding.
I have used friction driven sanders in the past, still have Sorby and Grip a Disk versions but rarely used, plain bearing versions are a waste of space in my experience as the grit and dust soon wreck the shaft & bearing, sealed bearing versions that will allow easy replacement pad changes seem to go on for ever.
My reason for not using friction driven is that I find they spin far to fast for good cool cutting action unless I'm very careful and are no use for spot sanding.
John. B
Established Member
re: Just back into wood turning but I'm much preferring Abranet at the moment.
I also use cut abranet sheets to fit my Hope rotary sander pads as well as Rhyno abrasive.
John. B
I also use cut abranet sheets to fit my Hope rotary sander pads as well as Rhyno abrasive.
John. B
yorkshirepudding
Established Member
For a few years now I have used a flexible drive with a 2" sponge pad in my pillar drill. Works a treat.
Paul Hannaby
Established Member
Having tried the passive sanders, air powered drills and ordinary drills, the best thing I've come up with so far is a right angled drill. On larger bowls I use a 3" arbour and on smaller ones, a 2" arbour. Having a powered sander also means things can be sanded when stationary.
Random Orbital Bob
Established Member
I've not tried abranet. My staple has been Rhyno grip for some time now which I either order in bulk from Simon Hope or in odd sizes from John Davis woodturning if I'm in for other things.
gregmcateer
Established Member
John. B":20xwutys said:
I'd seen talk (is that even possible :? ??) that the hook and loop gets worn down on the arbor pad, as it sticks through the abranet. I like abranet for hand sanding, but have bought some rhino from Richard Findley for power sanding.
John. B
Established Member
So far, Not true.!! :roll: :roll: :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol:
John. B
John. B
CHJ
Established Member
I have found this, using the 'velcro' facility, seems OK on the hand sanding flatwork pads without damage but I think it's the increased heat and pressure it's all too easy to generate on the lathe that strips the hooks very quickly, at least it did when I tried it. Mind you it might just have been the brand of pads I was using at the time were more prone, had longer hooks or something.gregmcateer":37nq0rqr said:
woodfarmer
Established Member
Random Orbital Bob
Established Member
Oops...errata...I get my Rhyno grip from Richard too and not Simon Hope as I previously mentioned (get the pads from Hope). Thought that needed correcting because I have a lot of respect for Richard and find his site really useful. He also doesn't take the mickey trying to get free advertising as some woodworking shop owners do on here and for that reason I'm quite happy to comment when I get good service from him (which I always do).
gregmcateer
Established Member
woodfarmer":kozrfc43 said:
Looks a snazzy bit of kit. Though not an impulse buy for most. I reckon if you already have a drill / cordless, most folk could manage on most projects.
CHJ
Established Member
woodfarmer":294ky5aq said:
I would think that it would be very limited on what it would actually reach on smaller subjects like this for instance.
I've found that a straight pad gets into most areas especially if used in conjunction with the standard hex socket quick release shafts to increase the reach.
I find that Cut squares of 'velcro' backed abrasive work well in this type of piece and boxes and under internal lips of bowls as the overhanging corner flaps act like flap wings and sand on the sides of the foam pad.
The fact that self cut sheet usually works out at about 1/10 of pre-cut discs in cost does not influence me in any way. :-" :---)
woodfarmer
Established Member
Now CHJ you got me in a quandry,
I haven't so far done anything that small, but I do have a cordless multispeed drill and can see the advantages of using a slower speed and cheaper paper with the drill I already have. On the bigger shallower bowls with an easy contour the angle grinder works very well also on the outside. Of course I wouldn't lose this by getting a set of ends for the drill.
Hmmm what to do? Will have a few weeks to think about it as will get whatever when I visit UK in a few weeks time.
I haven't so far done anything that small, but I do have a cordless multispeed drill and can see the advantages of using a slower speed and cheaper paper with the drill I already have. On the bigger shallower bowls with an easy contour the angle grinder works very well also on the outside. Of course I wouldn't lose this by getting a set of ends for the drill.
Hmmm what to do? Will have a few weeks to think about it as will get whatever when I visit UK in a few weeks time.
chipmunk
Established Member
The Proxxon angle grinder's slowest speed is 3300 RPM(!) and the motor is probably not rated for near continuous use.
Added to that I'm not convinced sanding tight internal curves will be very easy because the sanding head is too short in this case.
It's a very nice carving, shaping and texturing tool but I'm sure that there are better sanding tools out there.
HTH
Jon
Added to that I'm not convinced sanding tight internal curves will be very easy because the sanding head is too short in this case.
It's a very nice carving, shaping and texturing tool but I'm sure that there are better sanding tools out there.
HTH
Jon
