Any recommendations for light, mains powered angled drill for bowl sanding?

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Does it really need to be right angle drill.
This normal drill is only 1.3 kg, and the rpm is variable upto 3000 rpm.

I find my cordless 12v makita right angle drill a bit slow at times, and somewhat awkward on smaller bowls.

Whereas a normal drill with a 3 to 6 inch extension bar is easier on the smaller stuff.

ValueMax Corded Drill 500W, Electric Drill with 3/8''(10mm) Chuck, Variable Speed, Change Direction Switch for Drill Holes and Easy Removal, 3pcs HSS Drill Bits, Ideal for Home and DIY
I find Phil at shady acres a good watch, and he only uses normal drill, especially when using sandoflex sanding wheels.

Do you really need one ? , Get the best finish with a freshly sharpened chisel
Then sand through the grits with the lathe running slow , any stubben bits , stop the lathe and sand that area , I use sections of old mouse mats as a backing , Can't remember using a drill , They run way to fast and cause heat cracks if you are not very careful , And massive amounts of fin dust everywhere .
I wonder if its possible to modify a low cost mains angle grinder to take a sanding head, especially one with variable speed.
I wonder if its possible to modify a low cost mains angle grinder to take a sanding head

90% of 4 1/2" grinders on the market have a standard M14 thread on them. It is easy enought to make adaptors.

Look on eBay as there are angle grinder adaptors/attachments for almost anything, from the practical to the downright deadly. In particular, it is possible to buy a Jacobs chuck with M14 backend.
Sanding pads for angle grinders are readily available. I tend to buy 50mm, 75mm and 100mm for my variable speed, trigger-operated angle grinder. Hooks and loop backing pads that screw directly to the grinder are also quite common. There are reach extenders that screw to the grinder and then the pad screws to the end. This allows you to get deeper into what you're sanding. In your case, a bowl. Using a grinder to sand bowls is dangerous, but many people do use them. They can be aggressive at removing material which is fine if that's what you want and they can keep your hands away from rough edges. But, if you use it while the lathe is turning and one of those things gets snatched from your hands you will have a very large piece of heavy machinery flying through the air, most probably with the disk still spinning.
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I use a Makita angle drill mains power for sanding
As Tris says get the keyed chuck rather than the keyless as less stick out
I bought the 3010 on the recommendation of Richard Findley, its perfect for the job.


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Passive sanders seem best for outside and rim of inside but not so good for bottom of bowl where the wood is not spinning so fast. I have made myself a handle and will see how this works, with cordless drill for the spots that need more work on the inside.

And I will persevere with aiming for the holy grail of the perfect finish straight off the tool!