We made a scrub plane

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Andrea, very nice effort with the plane. It looks great and plenty sturdy!

A scrub blade doesn't need the same level of sharpness as a smoother. So it is great plane to practice your freehand honing technique. After a while it's no problem to make them just as sharp. And then you can dispense with the honing guide all together. If you want of course.
 
Somehow by accident, I made a wooden plane into a scrub plane, mainly due to wearing a hollow in a soft stone, This was using a guide, I then polished a finer edge free-hand. I don't think the hollow in the stone was massive as the angle of the blade increases the curvature. Maybe you want a separate stone for scrub planes, curvy chisels etc. I don't think the ultimate sharpness of the blade was quite so important for chomping out wood, at least in softwood.
 
Ciao Vitto and Andrea,

this is a wonderful plane! I've had a big smile when I found the dovetail repair on the handlee, because I rembered the saw.

Cheers
Pedder
 
rxh":1jjjlzc6 said:
Very impressive work :) .

Many thanks you too.

This is the first time I have seen a piece of steel angle used as a blade support like that

Me too. :)

What kind of wood did you use for the handles?

I think it is Rosewood.
The handles come from an ugly no-name plane. They was not so well shaped, but the wood was beautiful. The dovetailed patch is Black Locust.
 
Top job. Looking forward to seeing some more of these wondeful creations.
 
Jacob":1z9icggk said:
Well I did say!
Sharpening a narrow cambered scrub blade freehand is exceptionally easy. Trying to use a jig is particularly difficult.
Corneel":1z9icggk said:
A scrub blade doesn't need the same level of sharpness as a smoother. So it is great plane to practice your freehand honing technique. After a while it's no problem to make them just as sharp. And then you can dispense with the honing guide all together. If you want of course.

You were right.

After knowing that the Lie Nielsen honing guide will be priced starting from 100 USD (also without knowing if it will have a cambered roller too) and since I'm a frugal woodworker, I decided to lose a little more time with the modification of my Eclipse clone guide.

I filed more the lower edges of the two jaws, I have shortened more the threaded rod and now it works.
The sharpness now is great, as on all my other blades, but the the guide is not easy to use and it takes a lot of expertise in movement to control it.

Freehand sharpening was a little less performant, but much easier to achieve even for a freehand sharpener novice like me. So I think the game don't worth the candle (do you say "the game don't worth the candle" in UK too?).

However, if to someone would come to the insane idea to make a modification like mine, I' ve placed a caliper as a reference for the measurements.

eclipsescrub10.jpg
 
There is an old Record design of honing guide with a ball instead of a roller. If anyone really wants to use a guide on a heavily cambered blade it might be worth looking out for one.
 
Andrea":2bahu1z9 said:
.....
Freehand sharpening was a little less performant, but much easier to achieve even for a freehand sharpener novice like me. So I think the game don't worth the candle (do you say "the game don't worth the candle" in UK too?).
The game isn't worth the candle. Dead right!
Freehand sharpener novice today - world class expert by the middle of next week. Keep up the good work!
 
AndyT":18u3agbn said:
There is an old Record design of honing guide with a ball instead of a roller. If anyone really wants to use a guide on a heavily cambered blade it might be worth looking out for one.

Bugbear has already disparaged the '161 on the first page ... on the grounds of the ball getting flat spots. Now, I have one of these and find it useful for sharpening my scrub plane blade - admittedly the ball gets a bit gritty and scoured, but it does work. Mind you, I use it on an oil stone so at least it doesn't go rusty inside.
 
Sheffield Tony":6snuyt5u said:
AndyT":6snuyt5u said:
There is an old Record design of honing guide with a ball instead of a roller. If anyone really wants to use a guide on a heavily cambered blade it might be worth looking out for one.

Bugbear has already disparaged the '161 on the first page ... on the grounds of the ball getting flat spots. Now, I have one of these and find it useful for sharpening my scrub plane blade - admittedly the ball gets a bit gritty and scoured, but it does work. Mind you, I use it on an oil stone so at least it doesn't go rusty inside.

I've seen a few (20-ish) #161's at car boot sales over the years. Almost all of them either have heavily faceted balls, missing ball bearings, or both.

I've seen (and bought) a #161 is perfect condition - it's pretty near unused (and in its box), and likely to stay that way. :D

BugBear
 
It proves that the design is a compromise. You get the 'help' of a jig, you get the risk that the bearings gum up in use. To be fair, even the description of it in Planecraft says that the ball can get stuck and get a flat on it, where on the whole the message of the book is ' buy all these Record tools.'
 
I forgot to add - the radius on my 33mm ECE "shrupphobel" :shock: is about 30mm, which looks tighter than yours Andrea. It works well - other radii do too, but differently.
 
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