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I actually have him on Ignore, but when people quote him and the thread solely dissolves into a discussion revolving around his baiting it becomes useless.


Where I'm at is, I'm going to go with Scary Sharp to start with along with a cheap guide. I've also been given a Arno Carbide Burnisher as a bday present after the excellent test I had from Matthew on the pass around. Haven't made my order yet as just getting set up for spraying a welsh dresser then after that I'm starting on an oak desk and want to have sharp tools for the job!
 
Chems":2233cu96 said:
I actually have him on Ignore, but when people quote him and the thread solely dissolves into a discussion revolving around his baiting it becomes useless.

+1...exactly =D> =D> - Rob
 
Chems":2om8avuq said:
I actually have him on Ignore, but when people quote him and the thread solely dissolves into a discussion revolving around his baiting it becomes useless.

I can understand that, but when some new person asks a question, and Grim posts his usual obsessive drivel, AND I have Grim on ignore, the poor OP might think Grim's answer carries some weight.

OTOH, in the one thread where he might have something to say worth reading, he didn't post!

sash-window-chain-replacement-any-experience-t49069.html?hilit=sash

One might be tempted to conclude he only posts to annoy.

BugBear
 
woodbloke":1oxuenr5 said:
As I do...saves a lot of angst. The particular member in question has been banned from Tom's site (The Wood Haven) for the same reasons as have been mentioned earlier. Perhaps it's time to take the same action here...again!!
As others have said, most of the time, it's just a continual diatribe of meaningless drivel which is overtly obstructive rather than helpful. I can see why some members are ceasing to post here - Rob

I'll second that motion. Half of the threads I've read in the last few months have been derailed with unhelpful garbage by this fellow.
 
bugbear":aqv55wv2 said:
....Grim posts his usual obsessive drivel,
I post the same old stuff because people keep asking the same old stupid questions. I believe my point of view is perfectly valid and potentially useful.
It works for me (and others) and I am a working woodworker, unlike many other posters.
I don't sell anything on the back of it or profit in any way at all.
If you don't like it don't read it - that's how I myself treat 90% of the stuff on here (no names!) I'm not going to whinge on about it like you lot do, like fifth form school girls!
sash-window-chain-replacement-any-experience-t49069.html?hilit=sash

One might be tempted to conclude he only posts to annoy.

BugBear
I didn't post anything on that thread because I have no experience of sash chains and nothing useful to add. Done thousands of chords if that's any use.
 
I find the repeated calls for bans, and the mention of them in other, irrelevant places, as tedious as the points being complained of.

Ignore, report, whatever but have the decency to allow the Mods and Admin to decide who, if anyone, should be warned, banned, whatever.
 
Jacob":1wbu9xyu said:
I believe my point of view is perfectly valid and potentially useful.

If I believed for one moment you were actually sincere in that, I would vigorously defend you. Voltaire and all that.

But given your explicitly declared enjoyment of ruffling feathers, and your gloating posts of how you've "put the cat amongst the pigeons" on various occasions, you are revealed as deliberately setting out to provoke.

If you try to annoy people, don't be too surprised when people get annoyed.

BugBear
 
bugbear":x3qa53xi said:
...."put the cat amongst the pigeons"
When did I say that?
Useful having you following my every word BB (I don't myself) but I hope you are getting the details right! :lol:

PS one useful trick with whatever medium you use is to remove swarf with a powerful magnet. Particularly with an oil stone as it saves on oil. Another is to refresh the surface occasionally with a "Diapad" if you aren't bothered about flat stones (I'm not). They are a bit pricy but last a long time.
 
Jacob do you mean that this Diapad doesn't leave a flat surface, or it's difficult to get ?

I only ask as I have just come up here fresh from denuding yet another piece of emery cloth in an attempt to flatten a slightly concave worn stone of mine. (Oil stone)

Ah ... "flexible foam backing" I see.
 
I had great trouble trying to flatten an oilstone, even the paving slab method didn't work. Then I tried some of this on a glass plate; did it in a couple of minutes.
 
Thanks for that Studders.
I notice that the 4oz bottle of 90 grit is a mere £5.05.

But now I'm intrigued; if it grinds an oil stone so quickly, what does it do to the glass?
 
It did make the glass sort of 'cloudy' , for want of a better description, but it seems to have retained it's flatness as far as I can tell; even so I'd be reluctant to use the glass with the 3M micro film after, I doubt it would stick too well for a start.
 
Richard T":3o19b6er said:
Thanks for that Studders.
I notice that the 4oz bottle of 90 grit is a mere £5.05.

But now I'm intrigued; if it grinds an oil stone so quickly, what does it do to the glass?

Nice to see someone out there "gets it". :lol:


What happens is that the grit rolls around, and doesn't actually abrade the stone but 'pecks' at it, dislodging abrasive from the stone being worked over. If the grit doesn't roll, you're using too much pressure and you'll end up making a very nice lens from your glass.

Not much grit is required. Start with a thumbnail with a wetted down piece of glass not much bigger than the stone. Use oil for an oil stone, water for a waterstone. Scribble a few pencil lines on the stone, and rub-a-dub-dub. Switch ends on the stone occasionally to compensate for the natural tendancy to push harder on one point, and stop when the pencil lines are mostly gone or the entire surface looks clear and fresh. No need to completely remove the marks.

No, I'd not recommend the glass be used for anything other than more of the same afterwards either. ;)

Stu.
 
Richard T":3my52a52 said:
Jacob do you mean that this Diapad doesn't leave a flat surface, or it's difficult to get ?

I only ask as I have just come up here fresh from denuding yet another piece of emery cloth in an attempt to flatten a slightly concave worn stone of mine. (Oil stone)

Ah ... "flexible foam backing" I see.
It doesn't flatten as such. Diapads are a bit flexible. Like using sandpaper on a cork block. I bought them for cleaning a Derbyshire marble fireplace but they last forever and I now use them or reviving clogged up stones.
Basically I'm not bothered about flattening stones - if you don't use a jig you don't need to, though I do try to spread the load to keep them as flat as possible.
 
Thanks Studders and Stu. I'll give it a go.

Jacob - I don't use guides for sharpening, I use other stones for bevels and keep this one for flat.
It's just that I have done so much flattening of old irons recently I've noticed that my best stone for this purpose has developed a slight inverse V shape at one end despite my best efforts to keep it even with work. I must have been going into the middle more than I thought I was and not turning the stone often enough.
It's so slight it's hardly perceptible ( rule against stone held up to light; fine one end, fag paper thin glimmer in the middle at the other) until I transfer to my dead flat carberundum for fine polishing and find that the first 3 1/6s or so is not making contact.

Anyway, I'll give this stuff a go, ruin some glass,and report on how the stone turns out. :)
 
Richard T":g317qnai said:
...
It's so slight it's hardly perceptible ( rule against stone held up to light; fine one end, fag paper thin glimmer in the middle at the other) .....
Sounds flat to me! I'd either be using the flat end of the stone more, or using the non flat end but trying to distribute pressure to correct it.
Stone flattening is a labour of Sisyphus and best avoided IMHO.
Hollowed stones (along the length) produce straight edges, if required. Hollow stones (across the width) produce nicely cambered edges. Try working with them instead of against them!

....until I transfer to my dead flat carberundum for fine polishing and find that the first 3 1/6s or so is not making contact.,,,
Then I'd say don't bother with the dead flat carborundum if it is creating another problem.
 
Jacob":3709ioyc said:
Hollow stones (across the width) produce nicely cambered edges.

Hollow stones (across the width) produce cambered edges, wether you want them or not.

BugBear
 
bugbear":1000ugfw said:
Jacob":1000ugfw said:
Hollow stones (across the width) produce nicely cambered edges.

Hollow stones (across the width) produce cambered edges, wether you want them or not.

BugBear
Following my every word again BB, :lol: you'll go blind!
Luckily most people need them (cambers that is, whether they know it or not). And they are difficult with a flat stone. Kill two birds with one (hollow) stone: first; obtain easy camber, second; have really good excuse for not flattening stones - might even have time for a bit of woodwork! (That'll be the day :roll: )
 
Or you could always pop a shim under each of the wheels of your honing guide in turn and get a precisely repeatable camber every time.......

helmets on, retreat to trenches for onslaught!!!
 

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