Water based on oil based paint

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Tierney

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Hi,

I have two internal doors that I am painting. One is an old door (softwood) that has been stripped back, and the other is a new door made out of tulipwood/poplar. The top coat is going to be a sprayed on water based eggshell (by someone else), but, I am thinking of priming them first with an oil based primer. Part of the reason for priming them is that on the previous doors some of the joints opened after they were sprayed with the water based paint' so don't want a repeat of that as it means they need to be trimmed to fit the opening.

Hope I have made myself clear. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Oh, I have oil based primer already, so obviously not buying any new paint would help! :)

Thanks,

DT
 
no primer will stop joints opening, that’s to do with moisture and wood movement, I hope the sprayer didn’t just apply the WB to bare wood though!?!?!?

My spec for both doors would be to apply one/two coats of Zinnser BIN then let the WB paint be sprayed on if thats what you want.

I specify Zinnser BIN for several reasons, it will block any old oil based primer that may still be present on the old door, it will help reduce/stop the porosity of the new door and it will promote adhesion of the new water based coating.
 
Phil,

I'm slow to adopt new ideas, but, I am coming around to the idea of water based, particularly when it comes to cleaning brushes!

Cornucopia,

I think they are putting the WB on bare wood. I have a whole house to renovate and it was just before my wife's birthday party so I thought I would get my doors dipped and sprayed by a local company (so that people didn't think they were having a party on a building site) but wasn't that impressed with the results. The doors didn't warp, a couple of the panels did; but a few of the joints opened up (1920's doors); which, meant that they needed the edges planing after they'd been painted. I have already paid for these two doors, but, thought that a quick coat of an oil based, I had also thought of shellac, would prevent any moisture getting into the wood or joints. Would oil based primer do the trick or would I need to buy the zinnser, and would using zinnser on just the joint areas be sufficient?

Thanks for the advice.

DT
 
oil based might be o.k but nothing beats BIN for its ability to stop anything bleeding thru to the top coat. BIN is tricky to apply to larger surfaces though, you need to be quick and have a good technique. Zinnser coverstain will also work as will zinnser 123+ but on the old dipped door i'd always choose BIN
FYI applying a WB topcoat like FB estate eggshell or dulux trade ecosure gloss onto barewood is very poor practice

I think joints opening on dipped doors is a common problem as the dipping dissolves the glue in the joints causing them to fail and open up/crack
 
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