Wadkin 10" AGS - Rise & Fall Bearing Screw - Item 40

[h2ostartup]

Hello,

First posting, here it goes. Firstly I must say that the forum has been helpful in getting me this far. I recently thought to upgrade to an old classic and for several reasons I picked an Wadkin 10".

The saw was known not to run and the motor is out getting rewound, so I figured I have two weeks to sort out the sticky rise and fall issue. Mainly it makes a fair bit of moans and requires effort when within the last 1 1/2" of either rise or the fall. The worm gear and quadrant teeth are all present. After a clean and new lubricant still the same condition. Played around with the retaining strip and the three adjustments to no avail. Like I stated above since the motor will not be back for a few weeks I figured to get on with it and dis-assemble the saw to get to the rise and fall bits. I did observe that once the spindle assembly was off the rise and fall noise went away. In for a penny I continued with dis-assembling.

Everything went OK and this is where the forum has helped. Now I think I found a problem with the rise and fall screw bearing not being seating fully. I can only see that this would bring the front (wheel) forward to closer to the angle indicator, but its hard for me to understand if this is the cause. I'm nervous that this is in two pieces and that's the reason why its the way it is. The diagram shows that its one piece? Also is item 70 1/4" gas pip screw associated with setting the bearing, similar to a grub screw??

Firstly, I'm wondering the best approach to get this removed as the brass sleeve that's inside is floating with the gap. This is not a huge problem as I can get it back into the sleeve.

Does the piece get fully pressed into the space available? Lastly what's the best approach to press it back in as this piece fits into the trunnion with limited space and the press is dependent on the angle indicator, I think?

Any insight on the screw bearing it would be greatly appreciated.

Wes

 

[h2ostartup]

Hello just a follow up to the issue on the screw bearing.

After some thought I did release the threaded stud listed as item 70. Once this was released the whole of the screw bearing was able to be pulled out.
Huge lesson learned here as prior I had removed the spring pins in order to pull the shaft back through the front. For the benefit of those are first timers like myself, its apparent that the screw bearing can be removed out the front with the worm gear interacted by release item 70.

I can see this will allow the worm gear to interact with the quadrant with more threads engaged where before looking at "before picture" it was engaged by three threads.

I will not really know the full effect until its all back together. Since the motor has not arrived back for the rewind shop I've since decided that whilst this is all part I would refurbish.

I was wondering if I should open a new thread to post on the refurbishment or continue with this thread. Being new to forums what's the proper etiquette?

Thanks

Wes

 

[SammyQ]

Don't forget to rotate through 90 degrees to get it fully out. Make sure the threaded hole is aligned properly when you reassemble.
Sam

 

[h2ostartup]

Last followup to this thread as the re-assembly of the saw is completed with the return of the motor from the rewind shop. Incidentally the motor it turns out had a lug strap that was cracked causing the issue. Motor checked out OK otherwise.

As mention in the thread earlier I went ahead with disassembling the saw while waiting for the motor to return for the shop.

After sorting the rise and fall issue, I was looking for something to do. It was apparent that the previous owner when painting the saw a dark green color only painted as far as the brush would go.

It was apparent that leaving it would be down right lazy, particular around the external/interface areas of the base having two different colors. Finding factory paint was a non-starter, reading forums provided enough direction where I decided to use the light green hammered paint as it was the closest to the stock color.

Here's the saw, I left off the riving knife/crown guard and the fence still needs some adjustment but essential in its finished state.

Next up; possible dust extraction modifications and looking into soft start on the 240v 1PH to relieve the inrush amps, first I need to get back on finishing a Moravian workbench that this saw interrupted.

Wes

 

[MilesH]

Next up; possible dust extraction modifications ....................................
Wes

This was my solution. The L plates just hook under the lip of the table. No other fixing needed.

 

[h2ostartup]

Thanks for that MilesH, I like the approach non intrusive. No issues with heat build up on the motor? I like the fact that there's no cutting the lower panel for the 100mm hose adapter.

Cheers

 

[MilesH]

Thanks for that MilesH, I like the approach non intrusive. No issues with heat build up on the motor? ............

No problems with my usage even though I only left an inch between the fan cowling and the inside of the extraction box. If you're planning on using it intensively you might leave a couple of inches but the suction from the extraction gives a good airflow. I've even run it with the box on without using the extractor.