Using duct tape to hold my table saw blade in place?

[cagenuts]

I recently bought a Ryobi contractor table saw and decided to put it together today. It has a 5/8" bore and I bought a new rip blade (24 teeth) which has as standard a 30mm bore but comes with a reducer washer.

So I removed the retaining nut on the saw, then the outside flange and inserted the blade with the reducer onto the arbor. The problem is that there is a recess between in the middle of the two flanges which is wider than the reducing washer. This means that I can't get the blade to stay in place properly. What I've now done is to duct tape the reducing washer in place which now allows the blade to sit properly in place whilst I screw back on the outer flange and retaining nut.

Is this normal procedure or do I need some other sort of washers?

Input is appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi CN,

Please please get a proper reducing bush. You are heading for disaster with duct tape. it's good stuff but it doesn't work miracles. 8-[


If reducing washers slip, as they did on my saw, try and get a proper size bore, or use a reducing bush. This fills up the spare space of the bore and has a flange that bears against the face of the saw, so you can tighten up properly and hold the blade securely.

You might have to resort to ordering a blade from the USA, to get a 5/8" bore, but even then, I am not certain if American Imperial Measure is exactly the same as the defunct British Imperial measure. I kept my High Speed Steel blade for emergencies, and I am glad I did.

Welcome to the forum and my regards
John

 

[chipchaser]

Someone better qualified than me should be along to answer this but:

1) The reducer should be a firm friction fit in the blade making it unlikely to move in use.

2) On my Kity saw the recesses in the arbor faces are shallow so there is little chance of the reducer moving sideways far enough to allow the reducer to fail to support the blade. The blade and reducer would have to be thin to allow this to happen.

3) The depth of arbor flange recess(es) you describe is not one I have come across. Your problem sounds potentially unsafe and the solution a bit iffy. loose things fret against one another and become worse potentially damaging the blade and the shaft. The damage that could occur to the saw and to you, if the blade became uncentred is not worth risking.

Get a reducer that fits tightly in the blade bore. If needed consider thin washers to reduce the depth of the arbor recesses a little, just enough to keep the reducer in the blade. There must be a slight recess to allow the arbor flanges to grip the blade properly.

 

[chipchaser]

Hello John,

apologies for parallel post, only saw your's when I submitted mine. Did you see Wizer's 1" roughing gouge offered for £12? Maybe sold now?

Graham

 

[9fingers]

The way to sort this is to expand the reducing washer to fit into the blade.

Obtain a flat piece of wood that is small enough to fit inside the ring of saw teeth but large enough to support the body of the blade.
Lay the blade on the wood and drop in the reducer. Take a centre punch and gently punch the reducer about 1mm from the blade body. Repeat at a similar point diametrically opposite. gradually fill in the gaps symmetrically until you have ring of punched depressions at about 5mm spacing around the periphery of the reducer. Check to see if the reducer is now being gripped better in the blade. If so turn the blade over and repeat using similar weight hammer blows. Otherwise, if it is still loose, then go round again in the same locations with slightly heavier hammer blows until it holds.

hth

Bob

 

[RussianRouter]

Heavens! go get some washers to pack the reducer either side of the flanges.

Just note the diameter of the arbour and get the washers more or less the same diameter of the reducer.

Screwfix sell washers.

 

[9fingers]

The reducer must not be packed out this way if there is any risk that the washers contact the flanges. The blade body must be gripped by the periphery of the flanges not in the centre.

Bob

 

[RussianRouter]

We know that,but the reducer must be kept in place by means of little distance between flanges either side otherwise if there's nothing to keep the reducer from moving out of the blade hole the consequences are dastic if he ever its a blind knot in the wood

 

[RussianRouter]

We know that,but the reducer must be kept in place by means of little distance between flanges either side otherwise if there's nothing to keep the reducer from moving out of the blade hole the consequences are drastic if he ever hits a blind knot in the wood

 

[Benchwayze]

Hello John,

apologies for parallel post, only saw your's when I submitted mine. Did you see Wizer's 1" roughing gouge offered for £12? Maybe sold now?

Graham

I'll check, but have been offline for a few days, due to AOL troubles. So it will prolly have been sold..
Thanks anyhow Graham!
Regards
John

 

[jimi43]

What is the maximum blade diameter of the saw?

Jim

 

[woodbutcher]

hi cagenuts,

send the blade back where you got it.

get a new blade from wealden's they do a 5/8 blade bore.
best be safe!

woodbutcher
(richard)

 

[Benchwayze]

hi cagenuts,

send the blade back where you got it.

get a new blade from wealden's they do a 5/8 blade bore.
best be safe!

woodbutcher
(richard)

Hi Butch,

Now that is interesting. I need a new TCT rip blade with a 5/8" bore myself.
Many Thanks for the info!

John

 

[cagenuts]

The reducer must not be packed out this way if there is any risk that the washers contact the flanges. The blade body must be gripped by the periphery of the flanges not in the centre.

Bob

That's what I figured. The outer edge of the flange is indeed making contact with the blade and is really the only thing that keeps the blade tight. The way I see it is that the bore/arbor only plays a part in positioing the blade.

 

[cagenuts]

We know that,but the reducer must be kept in place by means of little distance between flanges either side otherwise if there's nothing to keep the reducer from moving out of the blade hole the consequences are dastic if he ever its a blind knot in the wood

That's exactly why I had to use duct tape to hold the reducer in place. Funny enough on my Mitre Saw with a similar blade (60 tooth) the flange was completely flat, hence no problem.

 

[9fingers]

The reducer must not be packed out this way if there is any risk that the washers contact the flanges. The blade body must be gripped by the periphery of the flanges not in the centre.

Bob

That's what I figured. The outer edge of the flange is indeed making contact with the blade and is really the only thing that keeps the blade tight. The way I see it is that the bore/arbor only plays a part in positioing the blade.

Exactly, so expanding the reducer as i described will fix it in place but with no risk of adding washers and compromising the grip.

Bob

 

[cagenuts]

What is the maximum blade diameter of the saw?

Jim

Jim, it's a 10" blade. I think I'll take some photies when I get home.

 

[cagenuts]

Exactly, so expanding the reducer as i described will fix it in place but with no risk of adding washers and compromising the grip.
Bob

Thanks Bob, this is what I'll do when I get home.