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Batfink44

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Ok guys I finally bought my first lathe it is the record dml36.
It's due to arrive early part of next week and I'm both excited and apprehensive as I've never owned a lathe before and dont really know how to set them up safely.
Can you guys give me some safety tips etc on what to do and look out for when setting up please.
For instance how do you find the centre of an object square and rectangle object i thought would be straight forward - draw a line from opposing corners to make a X and thats your centre.. what about objects that arent symetrical ?
Also is the cheap pine you can get down the local timber merchant the best material to use to get to grips with the lathe or is there something better?
 
Hi Batfink

you are on the right lines with finding centres - if you need to find centres on an uneven object like a log you can either buy/make a centre finder ( a piece of perspex with concentric rings scribed in and a hole in the middle , or just do it by eye and hope for the best - spin it by hand before starting and you will see if it is obviously out of line.

on the wood - definitely not. Pine is a puppy to turn even for the experienced - you want a hardwood and the best to start with is a forgiving timber like sycamore or cherry. In terms of where to get that from check out local tree surgeons etc , and put a wanted on your local freecycle for anyone with logs, branch wood etc, check out local joiners for offcuts etc

also check to see if you have a wood recycling project nearby - i cant find a national page but there is a list on this site http://www.somersetwoodrecycling.co.uk/ if you look at affiliated projects

come to that where are you ?- if you are in the swindon /oxford etc area pm me an address and i'll sort you out with a few bits.
 
Hi, if the wood is not symmetrical just guesstimate the centre.

If the blank is small enough use a pencil and scribe marks from each edge, the same as if you are scribing a line down a length of timber. Hold the pencil so it is just short of the centre. Once you've marked the same distance in from each edge, you then mark the centre guessing from the marks you made.

Similar idea, if the blank is too big for fingers use a Carpenters marking gauge to do the same thing. You will be left with a a load of lines around the centre, just eyeball and mark the centre in the middle.

Later once you get set up, get a piece of perspex fix it to a face plate with double sided tape. Turn the edge round CAREFULLY, drill a small hole in the centre, then using the tip of a skew scribe a circle every 1" or so from the centre. In future you can just lay the circle on the end of the blank, centre up by eye, then use a awl to mark the middle through the hole.

BSM types quicker than me :lol:
 
bloomin marvelleous, what a great simple idea a piece of perspex I would never had thought of that...
I live in pembrokeshire - milford Haven, west wales so not so close to you matey :) however i do have a friend that owns a vineyard and has recently had to fell some sycamore trees, I take it its ok to turn freshly cut logs or is there something i need to do them first apart from the obvious of removing the sticky outy things :lol:
How about things like chucks for bowl turning are they a necessity or are they jsut a luxury??
I'm gonna sound simple now but could someone explain to me what the 1mt 2 mt means when looking at chucks please..
 
Hi, 1mt and 2mt don't have anything to do with chucks, unless it is with a Jacobs chuck.

1 & 2 mt's tend to be the ones used on wood turning lathes. It is the size of the tapered hole in the spindle nose and tail stock quill. Usually to do with the spindle nose size. ie; Record lathes have a 1mt because the spindle is 3/4" x 16tpi. (small) Say a lathe like the Axminster M330 has a 2mt because the spindle nose is 1" x 8tpi. All to do with the amount of metal on the spindle. Record spindles don't have enough metal to cut a 2mt.

Word of advice buy a copy of This Book it will give you most of the information you need as a beginner. Considered to be the 'bible' for wood turners in UK.
 
Hi Batfink

you can turn green wood but it will move and possibly split as it drys

four options

a) get the logs and seal the ends with wax, paint, pva etc and leave to dry naturally - this will take a long time

the other three are only suitable for bowls etc - not spindle work

b) part turn the bowl to about an inch thick then wax all over and leave to season ( if you weigh it regularly when the weight doesnt change its ready to contiue turning - probably a month or two) - if you are part turning a lot then write the weights on the base with pencil. They will distort (go oval) as they dry but you can rechuck them and turn back to the round once dry

c) turn green to a wall thickness of about 3 - 5mm (not as easy as it sounds) then leave to dry - accepting the distortion as part of the "art"

d) turn as above then microwave (wise to get a s/h micro off freecycle for this less you incur the wrath of swimbo) - you can also have fun deliberately distorting the walls into pretzel shapes while they are hot - but where gloves so you dont burn your hands.

my advice would be to get as much sycamore as you can store (always grab free wood) then seal and store some (in a cool dark place out of direct sun), part turn some, and thin turn some and see what works for you.

if you want to practice spindle turning you will need to get your hands on some seasoned or kiln dried wood, you can either buy this as blanks (check out axminster, stiles and bates, craft supplies, yandles etc) or find a freindly joiner and get some off cuts ( you can also look in skips , try old pallets - the blocks are often hard wood, ask on freecycle, check out reclamation yards etc etc)

In terms of chucks - they arent a necessity -if you look at george (cornucopia)s work his forms are all done on a face plate - that said chucks are useful to have so get one if you can afford it.

Face plates chucks etc screw on to the spindle so the important sizing is the spindle thread mine is 1 x8 tpi yours is probably different.

A jacobs chuck is like a normal drill chuck on a morse taper - they can be used to hold very small bits of wood when turning jewlery etc , but are more usually used to hold drill bits etc when using the lathe to drill - doubtful that you need one of these at this stage

the MT stands for morse taper and tells you the size of the hole the centres etc go into on the head and tail stock - I would imagine that yours are 1MT but be wise to check in the manual.

As you are going to have a lot to learn and wont want to keep running from 'shop to computer I highly reccomend getting a copy of Keith rowleys Woodturning a foundation course published by GMC publications isbn 1-86108-114-6 which will tell you most of what you need to know.

Tam types faster than me - sometimes :D
 
..and MT stands for Morse Taper,which come in differnet sizes,hence 1MT,2MT - bigger number,larger section.
Yes,it's ok turning freshly cut logs;you might get a little wet,and whatever you turn will have a high chance of warping or splitting as it dries - but easier to cut than dry timber,so good to practice on to help master tool control.
Chucks - not essential for bowl turning,but definitely easier;don't need one,so see what you want to make,and consider purchasing later.

Andrew

Edit - pipper,BSM types faster than me,Tam types faster than BSM... :wink:
 
Great i'll go bend my mates ear and fill the boot of my car with his sycamore logs thanks for the tips and im going on amazon now to look for that book i just cant wait for it to turn up now I am quietly bursting within with excitement this is better than xmas :lol: my wife is beginning to get sick of it she says all i talk about now is wooworking tools and ideas :lol:

Yeah I think ill see how things go for the chuck as i think i prolly spent over 1/2 the cost of the lathe on tools allready i didn't realise how much this hobby could actually eat into your wallet and also how addictive it can be and havent even got my lathe yet :lol:
 
Batfink44":2dule04w said:
my wife is beginning to get sick of it she says all i talk about now is wooworking tools and ideas :lol:

i think we have all been there at some point - molify her by pointing out all the cool stuff you can make for the house or for xmas presents for her freinds - I hit hi spouse approval rating this xmas by doing a big walnut fruit bowl for swimbo's best freind , and night light holders and a bowl for the mother in law.

the only problem with this is that you will shortly be under constant pressure from freinds, rellys etc to "make me one too" or "make one for great aunt flo " etc

still a happy swimbo is vital when you come to upgrade and want to spend a K+ on your next lathe.
 
Hi ... oh what have you let yourself in for?? :lol:
I personally would strongly advise investing in some pre dried blanks to learn with! I know logs can be got for 'nowt' and cheap pine from DIY shops are cheaper, but you can easy be put off when you have trouble with the wood splitting or unable to get a finish better than the surface of a shredded wheat! ](*,)
If you try at least a few with pre dried first you will get a better feel for how you are doing and can concentrate on learning to turn without having drying to learn as well. little ash blanks or lengths are not that expensive, and when you do go for trying pine or green wood, you will know the finish and cracks are not always avoidable and not just down to being on the learning curve. have fun!! it's al downhill from here!! :lol:
 
Hi BT44, You sure have done it now, the slippery slope is drawing you down and your collection of tools will grow, your wood pile will grow and like the rest of us so will your ornamental fire wood!
Enjoy your new hobby as it takes hold.
Welcome to the forum.
Regards Ian
 
My wife says that the garden is beggining to look like something from the Le salvager programme bits and pieces everywhere :lol: thanks for the tip on buying blanks, I did actually look at some on ebay and i think i might get a few, its always good to see a finished product quickly even if the standard isnt good.
As for tools i've got a set of chisels - ibought the starter set from record and I also get a free set of pen chisels is there any other Necessity tool to buy? ahh i forgot i also bought a bench grinder for sharpening tools as far as i can see thats essentials but am I missing anything???
 
Don't forget some sort of dust extraction,if you are going to use dried woods and a face shield.
Using green timber will cut down on the dust and i think is a better way to learn as the wood cuts better.
I shouldn't worry about getting a piece finished,though it is a great feelng when you do,i would concentrate on getting used to using the tools correctly.
Just be careful and enjoy :D
 
Hi BT.

:idea: What you really need is a grinder with at least one 'white wheel'. There are pink blue and so on, but white is a good general wheel for HSS tools.

So what you really need to do is price up a cheapy bench grinder, and a spare white wheel, then price up a more expensive grinder with the white wheel already fitted. Then buy which ever is the least expensive. If just used for turning you don't need any of these all singing all dancing sharpening tool stations, you can make a lot of the jigs yourself. Just ask here.

You can use the grey wheels on a cheap grinder, but they tend to glaze over very quickly and if not careful you will burn the tools. You can blue HSS without effecting the hardness of the metal, unless heated to the extreme, not like carbon steel tools which you would ruin if blued.

If you have to use grey wheels touch the tool to the stone little and often, and keep dressing the wheel to remove the glazing.

I'm with Paul, get some practice in if you can. I guarantee if you haven't turned before you will mess up, so don't waste good timber on practice. Unless of course you have the proverbial deep pockets, then of course enjoy.

All only my personal opinion of course :wink: :wink: :roll:

PS - Ignore my last about the grinder, didn't read it properly and thought you where asking about one. :oops: :oops: :oops:
 
Hui and welcome to the slope. All the advice above is valid and worth listening to. The only thing that I would add is that you get Keith Rowley's Foundation Course. Well worth it and it can be picked up quite cheaply. Avoid 'specialist tools' at this time as a lot of them are likely to either put you off or end up unused.

As far as what to turn as said don't worry about finishing things immediately but also go for smaller things like weedpots, T light holders and pen pots as these are good practice and will let you have something to proudly display to 'the lady' to prove it isn't all a waste of time :lol:

Have fun and don't be afraid to ask questions howver asimple or daft they may seem to you, we have all been there are are still there ourselves.

Pete
 

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