Hi Batfink
you can turn green wood but it will move and possibly split as it drys
four options
a) get the logs and seal the ends with wax, paint, pva etc and leave to dry naturally - this will take a long time
the other three are only suitable for bowls etc - not spindle work
b) part turn the bowl to about an inch thick then wax all over and leave to season ( if you weigh it regularly when the weight doesnt change its ready to contiue turning - probably a month or two) - if you are part turning a lot then write the weights on the base with pencil. They will distort (go oval) as they dry but you can rechuck them and turn back to the round once dry
c) turn green to a wall thickness of about 3 - 5mm (not as easy as it sounds) then leave to dry - accepting the distortion as part of the "art"
d) turn as above then microwave (wise to get a s/h micro off freecycle for this less you incur the wrath of swimbo) - you can also have fun deliberately distorting the walls into pretzel shapes while they are hot - but where gloves so you dont burn your hands.
my advice would be to get as much sycamore as you can store (always grab free wood) then seal and store some (in a cool dark place out of direct sun), part turn some, and thin turn some and see what works for you.
if you want to practice spindle turning you will need to get your hands on some seasoned or kiln dried wood, you can either buy this as blanks (check out axminster, stiles and bates, craft supplies, yandles etc) or find a freindly joiner and get some off cuts ( you can also look in skips , try old pallets - the blocks are often hard wood, ask on freecycle, check out reclamation yards etc etc)
In terms of chucks - they arent a necessity -if you look at george (cornucopia)s work his forms are all done on a face plate - that said chucks are useful to have so get one if you can afford it.
Face plates chucks etc screw on to the spindle so the important sizing is the spindle thread mine is 1 x8 tpi yours is probably different.
A jacobs chuck is like a normal drill chuck on a morse taper - they can be used to hold very small bits of wood when turning jewlery etc , but are more usually used to hold drill bits etc when using the lathe to drill - doubtful that you need one of these at this stage
the MT stands for morse taper and tells you the size of the hole the centres etc go into on the head and tail stock - I would imagine that yours are 1MT but be wise to check in the manual.
As you are going to have a lot to learn and wont want to keep running from 'shop to computer I highly reccomend getting a copy of Keith rowleys Woodturning a foundation course published by GMC publications isbn 1-86108-114-6 which will tell you most of what you need to know.
Tam types faster than me - sometimes