Union Graduate 16" modification.

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Arckivio

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13 Oct 2013
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Hi all. I'm not a regular poster on this forum & recently losing my workshop & job didn't help. Anyway, got a better job & workshop & decided to try & do this modification that can be done professionally for around 800 quid. Although, I think you have too do most of the work anyway if you have it done properly, you're just sent riser blocks!!! This cost me around 40 quid but I did the necessary welding myself. It was actually quite easy to do but difficult to explain so if anyone is keen to try it, they can pay me a visit & see my new baby in all it's glory. I was originally going to buy a jet 1624 but I realised the only heavy part of these new lathes is the bed not the headstock & now I've got rid of the only drawback my graduate had. The £40 I spent included a 1/2" bsw tap & the 50x10 bright mild steel bar.

Archie.
 
Grahamshed":h3rlvi8w said:
Do you mean the spindle height above the bed, i.e. you raised the head and tail stocks ?
That's right. I also did the whole mod in a way that i could take the lathe back to it's original setting if it went wrong.
 
Here goes. It may look daunting but it was actually easy, apart from cutting all the 50 x 10 bright mild steel with a hack saw!!!! This was definitely a bodge job & there are plenty out there with engineering experience & tools that could do it better. One thing I forgot to do at the start was to hold a long, stable piece of timber in my evolution chuck to get a center mark at a distance from the headstock but I had a round aluminium round bar with center marks that I could spin true & check the center after the mod. At point to point, my drive & revolving center hit accurately & the two points can't be pushed passed each other.

Step 1
is to drill a new hole in the bed face 50mm above the original bottom fixing hole & in line. I originally wanted to just screw the top hole of the bed into the bottom hole of the headstock & that would have dropped the bed by 75mm but this places the bed off the milled flat location part of the headstock so you can't drill a new fixing hole in the headstock or the 1/4" holes for the dowel pins. Drill this new hole & open out the old one to 15mm not the 14mm that is already there unless you can place with pinpoint accuracy. the extra mm gives you some room to move the bed.
Mod 1.jpg


Step 2
making the shoe for the tailstock needs some 50mm x 10mm bright mild steel bar off ebay. Has to be bright so its square edged. cut to the length of the tail stock. 15mm x 5mm or similar pieces cut to the same length as these are welded to the inner sides and slide in the gap in the bed as shown by my terrible welding in the picture below. 1/2" bsw thread can be bought off ebay & 50mm should be welded to the end of the tailstock eye bolt to extend it
Mod 2.jpg


Filler plate added to fill out & stabilise the tailstock. Mine are shown super glued in place & they didn't move while turning & tightened by the tailstock camlock. If they do, i'll tighten up & drill thru to bolt all together.
Mod 3.jpg

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I had lifted my lathe by 6 inches so i made a bed foot 4 inches to lower the foot & then packed it out to suit. Once everything is accurate & lined up, mark the new bottom fixing hole in the headstock thru the 15mm hole in the bed, remove the bed & drill & tap. Re align everything & once satisfied, drill the 1/4" holes for the dowel pins & weld or drill & tap 50mm risers to the toolrest as shown below. Sorry, massive mistake as i just found out. You don't lift the whole tool rest assembly or you end up back where you started. You get a 45mm diameter solid round bar, 50mm long and drill a one inch hole in it and weld it to the top of the old tool post. I will now punish myself!!!!
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That last post took me ages as I have no real clue what to do with pics or explaining things but if it helps some one it's worth it. One thing I forgot is that the tailstock foot that slides in the bed is tapered inwards & only accurate at the top. I used snapped pieces of shim from a feeler gauge to put below the m4 bolts to spread the guides back out. 0.020mm spread the bars too far & made it tight, 0.010 was too loose & 0.015 was perfect. Shim stock is expensive in different sizes so a feeler gauge is fine. I bought a 10.5mm & 15mm dart drills as they're cheaper than dormers but better than cheap Chinese. Other things needed are the 50 x 10mm bar, 1/2" bsw tap & length of thread, feeler gauge & a dormer 1/4" drill as this needs to be accurately sized for the dowel pins.
 
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