ts 200 and axminster rip fence upgrade

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martin.h

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Hi
I know there are about 1000 ts200 threads out there but after sifting through a lot of them (and talking to axminster) I'm still unclear as to how to add the axi rip fence upgrade to it . I have quite a narrow workshop (7') . My thoughts are to make a movable table which also acts as a modestly sized side extension (up to say 200mm extra rip capacity) and to use the axi rip fence upgrade. Do I have to tap into the table to add the fence? Can I easily incorporate a diy side table using this fence?
Has anyone done this already?
I'm not that happy with the rip fence which came with the saw or the miter gauge. I aim to replace the miter gauge with cross cut sled(s) but that is another story.
Martin
PS I haven't bought the rip fence yet, so if there are any other better options out there please point me towards them.
 
martin.h":3gasl9ix said:
Do I have to tap into the table to add the fence? Can I easily incorporate a diy side table using this fence?

I don't have the rip fence upgrade, so take my answers with a pinch of salt, but based on the photos online...

I got the impression that the upgrade was aimed more at bandsaws than table saws - it's certainly not going to be straightforward to add it onto a TS-200 from what I see in the product photos, there's no horizontal holes on the side of the TS-200 so you would need to tap your own.

On top of that, it looks like the extrusion that the fence runs on is wider than the existing TS-200 table, but not so wide as to be significantly useful over a second table, which would probably need to be attached to the saw table pretty firmly (read: permanently) since it looks like the upgrade is only attached at the two ends.




As to alternatives: Steve Maskery has a pretty complete tutorial on building a rip fence from scratch on one of his table saw DVDs, and there are various other build-your-own-fence articles floating around the 'net. Axminster do a longer extrusion for their own fence rails with the side table extension kit, but if you're not keen on the pack-in fence that probably doesn't help you much...
 
I've got the rip fence on my bandsaw. It's fairly easy to install buy you do need to secure the retaining clips that hold the extrusion by drilling 2 holes into the table or case of the saw. It should work OK on the TS200 and if you look at the customer reviews one person has used it for just that purpose. As both products are by Axi why not give them a call and ask.
 
Hi Martin
I hope your WE 10 DVD arrived this morning.
The fence itself is easy to make, you just need to be able to drill and tap a few holes, really. If you have any queries, please don't hesitate to give me a call.
Steve
 
thanks Steve, I'm getting my head around it. Metal work is not something which comes naturally but the rip fence looks good and solid.
 
Just a bit more info, Martin.
It is worth getting a really good toggle clamp. I've tried to find the model number of the one I bought, but I can't find my paper accounts for that year. In a box somewhere, I guess.
But I got it from Cromwell's and it cost just under £30 about 18 months ago. They have a wide range and it's not easy to tell from the catalogue which is which. But they were happy to get a range in for me to look at (my local had none on the shelves, but they got some from their main warehouse overnight) and I picked one from the selection.
S
 
Can someone please point me to the larger aluminium extrusion that axminster offer to make the rip fence longer on the upgrade?
 
Do you mean the guide rail for the fence, so it can slide further to the left/right, or the fence itself?

I think the normal guide rail extrusion for the TS200 is a Chinese proprietary profile that's only sold OEM, but Steve's fence (and others) use steel angle and a different clamping arrangement, which works well. There's a flange either end of the TS200 table that's ideal for mounting to and easily to fix brackets to.

For the actual fence itself, plain box section extrusion is available in many different shapes, from aluminium stockholders. I've bought 3"x1" (approx.) in the past: It's not cheap, but it's straight and pretty rigid. The wall thickness is enough to take small pitch tapped holes (say up to M5 but you'd need to experiment), so I guess you might fix T-track on top of it, but the uses must be fairly minimal. You don't often want a fence that runs the whole length of the table, for safety reasons.
 
if you are making a fence, i would make a full length one, and a shorter sub fence for ripping. that way, you have the best of both worlds.
 
Thank you for your replies. What is the safety issue with having a full length fence? The stock fence and rail don't move far enough left and right and larger cutting projects deviate from straight once they pass the end of the fence.
 
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