toughest outdoor finish

[Jinxy]

Hi all, I would like some advice on the strongest finish you can recommend to brave the UK weather.

I have a 1920s semi and the fascias and sofits are looking tired. My neighbour has just had his done by a firm who plastered that tacky uPVC on top of the old wooden ones.

After some investigation the lumber in mine is still in great condition and would like to restore it back. I'm going to plane the old paint off then give it a light dye then would like to know the strongest protection I can put on it.

Been reading if I get the protection right there is no reason mine will need any more maintenance than next doors before his goes all black.

What do you recommend, I'm leaning towards using several coats of spray lacquer?

Wood finishing is not my strong point so any help is appreciated.

Thanks! Chris.

 

[Jacob]

linseed oil paint.
It works in exactly the opposite way to modern paints and varnishes. They have a strong finish coat which eventually gets loosened - water gets in behind it, rot, paint lifts off (with the flakes still in good condition!).
Linseed oil paints weather from the surface (not from behind) so they deteriorate gradually - go chalky, wash off etc, but it takes a long time to get back to the wood. But then the big advantage is that it can be refreshed with more oil or paint, with no preparation other than a bit of a clean down. This can go on for generations with no need ever to strip off the old paint.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

It is guaranteed to look a mess if you try to clear varnish it. You won't be able to plane it, so you'll end up sanding or burning and sanding it off. Paint it with best quality primer, undercoat and gloss - Dulux Weathershield or similar, or use Sadolin, Sikkens or equivalent if you want a wood look alike finish. Use stainless screws to put your guttering back.