Three rusty infills (Chariot, Smoother & Shoulder). WIP

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mr_P

Established Member
Joined
22 Mar 2013
Messages
1,094
Reaction score
2
Location
Oldham
Well I've tackled lots of rusty Stanley types over the last year so thought I'd have a bash at a rusty infill or three.

trio rusty 001.JPG

trio rusty 002.JPG

trio rusty 004.JPG


The chariot is clearly the star of the show with a stunning wedge that surprisingly when viewed from the flat side looks like mahogany. Missing the internal infill so maybe a dip in corro dip is called for ?

The shoulders biggest issue isn't rust but the most exotic and endangered of species "plywood" infill :shock:

The smoother presents the biggest challenge, removing the infills then rust removal.

Any tips, advice greatly received.
 

Attachments

  • trio rusty 001.JPG
    trio rusty 001.JPG
    188.2 KB
  • trio rusty 002.JPG
    trio rusty 002.JPG
    230 KB
  • trio rusty 004.JPG
    trio rusty 004.JPG
    163.7 KB
Wow, that's a big lot of practice you've got there Carl.

Good photos but I can't quite see - are the rivets in the shoulder visible and get-at able?

Also were the things holding the smoother infills in once wood screws? I wonder how Mahogany grips woods crews after a year or two ... Are you sure you want to take them out? They look very well fitted; the front could be reduced, unless you like it that high.

Emery cloth is great stuff and you can never have enough. And from what I hear Corro Dip is great stuff too if you have a microwave.

Another thing not quite clear, where is the back of the shoulder's iron? :-s
 
Thanks Richard, yes the iron in the shoulder is a bit of a wafer thin joke, especially when you compare it to the ward iron below.

trio rusty 009.JPG


The rivets are easily accessible and look easy to knock out (famous last words).

Image (124).jpg


Corro dip is indeed great stuff (thanks again Jimi). Never felt the need to heat it, works fine at room temp.

That's the reason I want to remove the infills from the smoother, tad ambitious perhaps as each one is secured by 3 screws so unlikely to get them all out. Removing the rust from the inside and doing the outside where it meets the wood looks like a nightmare with them in place. Then again I do need to buy a dremmel so maybe wait and see.

Have plenty of emery cloth, great stuff for quick rust removal on the sides of Stanleys.

Apologies to the forum for having 3 WIP's on the go. Haven't forgotten my wedge, finally admitted defeat and bought a grinder. Maybe I should have started a "How to blunt a chisel" thread.
 

Attachments

  • trio rusty 009.JPG
    trio rusty 009.JPG
    242.3 KB
  • Image (124).jpg
    Image (124).jpg
    213.9 KB
Well that was a doddle (compared to lumpy bronze soles).

Image (126).jpg


Still needs a bit more quality time on the float glass but that's enough excitement for one day.

I've seen single rivets / holes in the centre line before and in pairs but never one on its own like this.
 

Attachments

  • Image (126).jpg
    Image (126).jpg
    196.4 KB
Just a little tip I found helped with CorroDip.

The downside is that the item has to be immersed and this is not desirable if you can't remove the infill.

If you temporarily smear Vaseline on the wood thickly and just a bit over the transition to the metal the wood will be perfectly protected from any liquid until the metal is restored at which point you can remove the Vaseline with a cloth.

Good work there mate!

Jim
 
Again MR P,
Mr_P":221todaw said:
but the most exotic and endangered of species "plywood" infill

If its WPB then it could be perfect for dipping :D
jimi43":221todaw said:
Just a little tip I found helped with CorroDip.

The downside is that the item has to be immersed and this is not desirable if you can't remove the infill.

If you temporarily smear Vaseline on the wood thickly and just a bit over the transition to the metal the wood will be perfectly protected from any liquid until the metal is restored at which point you can remove the Vaseline with a cloth.

Good work there mate!

Jim

Aha- looks like electrolysis is still a possibility......and a good rubdown with some W&D 'specially after looking at the soles of those two.......Nice 8)

I better read the rest of your posts on this as I'm curious as to the outcome of the screws and Mahogany question posed.


Thanks again chaps =D>
 
Well since I've accidently woken this thread from its deep slumber I better update it.

rusty 01.jpg


The Chariot was an easy one, slapped some oil on the wedge and attacked with emery paper. A quick sharpen of the iron and it works well. The wedge is an even deeper brown, almost black colour now but still looks mahogany from below. Maybe I should have used Andy T's reviver mixture (link in sticky thread at top of hand tools) but I'm a tight Northern so and so and lacked the required ingredients so used the first thing that came to hand, johnsons baby oil. Good enough for my oil stones, good enough for a chariot wedge. I've used it on other planes since and had very pleasing results but guess this has a lifetime of filth embedded into it.

The infill smoother is still a WIP, a lot better than it was but still terrible where the metal meets the wood. Only recently splashed out on a dremel type tool so considering having another go but still think plan A might be the way to go and try and remove the infills.
 

Attachments

  • rusty 01.jpg
    rusty 01.jpg
    201.4 KB
Back
Top