Thoughts on Ultex Diamond Sharpening Plates

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user 26792

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Hi All

Purchased a pair of 8" x 3" single sided Ultex diamond plates, one is Coarse 300 grit and another in medium 600 grit, £20 each. These are the first set of Diamond plates I've purchased prior to this I was using an old combination stone which has seen better days. Planning on purchasing the 1200 grit one at some point as well. The grits were chosen on the basis of Paul Sellers videos. I used them for the first time today and thought it might be good to articulate my thoughts in case others find it helpful and because I bought them because of the recommendations on this forum. Just FYI, I'm very much a newbie when it comes to sharpening edges and everything else, so perhaps my technique and method is not quite as refined as it should be. I'll give as much detail as I can in relation to what I did, so there is some context.

Purchased them from ITS because they seem to be the only stockist of Ultex plates and felt a little ripped off with the delivery charge of £4.95, mainly because they sent a catalogue heavier than the plates which I expressly ticked the box to say I didn't want and it came in a box big enough to fit 2 pairs of my size 9 boots, without any internal packaging to minimise the risk of damage whilst in transit. The plates themselves were boxed and came with a protective case. Simply from a practicality standpoint the box could have been much smaller. Perhaps I'm spoiled because of my usual online store of choice is Amazon and therefore being pedantic.

As for the plates, as mentioned they did come with a protective case and a piece of non slip rubber grip which are nice little additions and make the price tag even more appealing, especially when considering alternative plates measuring at 8" x 3" from Eze Lap and DMT are over £50. My initial thoughts were in relation to the look and feel of them and they looked pretty robust, are helpfully labelled with the grit count at the top of the plate and they have a premium feel in relation to the weight. As a famous Russian once said "Heavy is good, heavy is reliable...". The surface of the plate has a criss-cross pattern which Ultex say, is so the dirt and debris can be channelled away. Personally, I think it's a reason the price tag is as low as it is because the surface obviously is less Diamond than the ones without the pattern.

When I used them, I lubricated the surface using a glass cleaner spray I had in the house, it was a Mr Muscle don't think the brand makes a difference, although a check of the ingredients in comparison to others might prove otherwise. I was sharpening and setting up the cutting iron and cap iron for my jack plane which I had already done some work on using some cheap 100 grit wet and dry abrasive paper on top of a granite chopping board to get them flat and square, again sprayed using the glass cleaner. To get the angle I just followed the existing bevel on the cutting iron as I don't have a honing guide or angle measurement ruler to get the perfect angle. Started out on the 300 grit and worked the irons until the scratch patterns were consistent and replaced the scratch from the abrasive paper, perhaps I should have kept going until I got a burr on the cutting iron, but I didn't want to risk making a mistake. Moved onto the 600 grit and did the same thing. When I was sharpening the cutting iron I flipped the iron over to the flat side and just made a couple of passes. Took a break for an hour or so and when I came back to my shock the 600 grit plate had little rust spots on it. I was pretty sure I had pretty much got rid of all the glass cleaner, so I'm hoping this was the debris from the cutting iron and not the plate because it did rub off quite easily. After a little more work on the 600 grit plate, I decided to give them a little stropping on the rough side of a piece of veg tan leather, I bought intending to make it into a strop, no compound or anything, just bare leather, mostly because I was curious if it would do anything and it did give a bit of a polish so I hope with the compound, the results will be better. When testing the sharpness of the blade I made a couple of passes on my arm and managed to cut a little hair not much. Using it on a piece of timber, I don't think it was quite as sharp as I would have liked, at this point I realised that my combination stone likely had a finer grit level than 600 which is possibly why I didn't get the result I wanted, paired with impatience of course. I'll give it another sharpening once I get the honing compound which should be sometime this week.

In conclusion, I think the plates are a decent buy for £20, in hindsight, I should have bought the fine 1200 grit instead of one of the others. Live and learn. Hope this has been an informative post. If anyone has any questions, I'll do my best to answer.

Thanks

K
 
I bought the combination versions about 4 years ago (300/600) (800/1200) they have been great. quite agressive to begin with but soon settle in and give nice results
 
Not wanting to hijack the thread as I have never used those plates but if you don't raise a burr you aren't actually sharpening the edge. Have another go and don't stop with the coarser stone until you can feel one along the entire width of the cutting edge, then move on to your finer abrasives.
 
I bought some of these last year after seeing good reports on this site. I bought the double sided ones at the time as I don't recollect they were any dearer at that time. I finish on the 1200 grit then polish on a leather strop with the yellow "Flexcut" compound that I use with my carving knives. I use the freehand method a la Sellers, but I do have a Veritas jig for use now and then to restore order if required. I get very sharp tools by this means and could very easily shave my arms to baby like smoothness, as one often sees done at demonstrations, but to be honest I'm not sure that this is a valid measure of sharpness for a Woodworking tool. I bought my glass cleaner from the local car shop and I'm not sure that it's the same stuff as Mr Muscle, which from memory contains vinegar, at least it used to. I'm sure water would work well, but the glass cleaner has a small amount of detergent in it and also I think some isco propanol. The detergent should help to keep the particles in suspension, not sure of the role the alcohol takes. I don't come off the 300 stone until I can feel a burr on the reverse side, and them move on the next stone. I'm pleased with my plates but in honesty I've only had the trend ones to compare them to. Trend are ok but these Ultex ones are bigger, and I found them better for plane irons. I have no knowledge whether the more expensive ones are any better as I can get the results I need with these cheaper offerings .
 
I did a little review of them a few months ago,

ultex-diamond-stones-t100153.html?hilit=%20ultex

The chap who owns the Ultex stones reports that after fairly hard use they've shed some diamond stones from the edges, but overall he's still delighted with them and I can well understand why, at the special offer price they're astonishing value for money.

Incidentally, subsequent to that post I've retired some of my DMT stones and tried Atoma on DW's advice. Very good advice it was to. I've never used a diamond stone that gives so much feel and feedback. Atoms is available in Europe from Dichter tools in Germany, they also sell the Atoma thin film range which would allow you to make up curved or shaped profiles. I keep meaning to try that out as I've a couple of moulding planes where slip stones are either a poor fit or entirely the wrong grit.
 
memzey":1ub12ppj said:
if you don't raise a burr you aren't actually sharpening the edge. Have another go and don't stop with the coarser stone until you can feel one along the entire width of the cutting edge, then move on to your finer abrasives.

+1

Memzey's nailed it.

When I see someone struggling with sharpening this is usually the culprit, often caused by starting on too fine a grit. Start on a fairly course grit and don't stop until you can feel that burr. If it's taking an unfeasible long time then either move to a courser grit or hit the grindstone to remove some metal and speed up the honing process. But unless you've knicked the iron don't grind right to the edge, coat the edge with black felt pen so you can easily see progress and stop grinding about 1mm away from the edge. That way you preserve your precious camber and dramatically reduce the risk of bluing the blade.
 
I knew I was doing something when sharpening :shock: , in saying that I've sharpened plane about 4 times overall 3 on the combination stone I have so still learning. I'll blame it on my impatience and lack of experience and fear of messing up the bevel edge hehe. I have been getting some fine shavings mind. Still working on perfecting my technique though :D .

I think I'm just used to paying less for delivery because I usually shop around a lot and find the sites that offer the best price in total. Obviously ITS have the market cornered on these Ultex plates.

I was tempted by the double sided ones, but I plan on mounting the plates to a piece of plywood and the cost was almost the same as buying 2 single sided.
 
Khuz360":1rezf5cd said:
I knew I was doing something when sharpening :shock: , in saying that I've sharpened plane about 4 times overall 3 on the combination stone I have so still learning. I'll blame it on my impatience and lack of experience and fear of messing up the bevel edge hehe. I have been getting some fine shavings mind. Still working on perfecting my technique though :D .

I think I'm just used to paying less for delivery because I usually shop around a lot and find the sites that offer the best price in total. Obviously ITS have the market cornered on these Ultex plates.

I was tempted by the double sided ones, but I plan on mounting the plates to a piece of plywood and the cost was almost the same as buying 2 single sided.

Don't worry too much about messing up the edge/messing up in general. I ballsed up many an edge on my quest for sharpness and figuring out what works best for me. Once you nail it you'll find you make much fewer mistakes, but they were necessary mistakes in the first place (for me at least).

On the topic of Ultex stones, I'm really happy with mine. I did make the rookie error of not thoroughly checking them for flatness when they arrived though. I use WD40 on mine and after a few minutes of use you can see where the WD40 is "pooling". It's a tiny amount mind but definitely shows a slight discrepancy in the surface.
 
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