Thoughts On The Sorby Tool Rest Adjustment Collar

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I looked at this when it came out….I thought it was complete overkill…and a waste of resources. A typical graduate idea…clever but totally not needed.
surely wood turners could make up wooden collars from there offcuts….???
 
The real benefit is in making small adjustments to the tool rest height when changing gouge.

Loosen the tool rest, rotate the knurled bit, tool rest settles in the new position. Tighten tool rest.

Current method (for me anyway) is loosen tool rest, guess the height, tighten, repeat until ok.

Still a bit of a gimmick - its this or a years supply of chocolate digestives.
 
The real benefit is in making small adjustments to the tool rest height when changing gouge.

Loosen the tool rest, rotate the knurled bit, tool rest settles in the new position. Tighten tool rest.

Current method (for me anyway) is loosen tool rest, guess the height, tighten, repeat until ok.

Still a bit of a gimmick - its this or a years supply of chocolate digestives.
Having it in place for a couple of weeks and some practice with trees some boxes has been useful.

The important part is to get the base height right in the first place. If you get that part right, the half inch up/ down micro ring comes into play and there should be minimal need to use the grub screw adjustment, which is a bit of a faff because the grub screw (and hole) is too small and gets clogged with dust very quickly. A blast of air is needed before inserting the key.

Everything was far too simple beforehand, I needed some complication in my life...
 
I think one thing this overlooks is that there is no "right" height for the tool rest. It varies depending on the tool in use and sometimes on the cut you are trying to make. I sometimes change the height of the toolrest to overcome the shape of the rest in relation to the cut I'm trying to make too.

My solution to the problem is to grip the toolrest with my index finger pointing down and along the toolpost so my finger rests on the top of the banjo so when I release the lock screw, the rest stays where it is and I can make micro adjustments or big adjustments as required without losing the start point as the reference. Do it this way and you don't need a locking collar.

Interestingly, one of my lathes was originally owned by the late Ray Key. He had added collars to the 1" toolposts which were just lengths of 28mm copper pipe, which just happens to be a tight fit - needing a tap or two from a blunt implement to adjust! Having got used to my way of using my index finger, I removed the copper collars but I kept them just in case I changed my mind! ;)

I still stick to my original statements about shiny things being created to catch fishermen (or turners!).
 
I think one thing this overlooks is that there is no "right" height for the tool rest. It varies depending on the tool in use and sometimes on the cut you are trying to make. I sometimes change the height of the toolrest to overcome the shape of the rest in relation to the cut I'm trying to make too.

My solution to the problem is to grip the toolrest with my index finger pointing down and along the toolpost so my finger rests on the top of the banjo so when I release the lock screw, the rest stays where it is and I can make micro adjustments or big adjustments as required without losing the start point as the reference. Do it this way and you don't need a locking collar.

Interestingly, one of my lathes was originally owned by the late Ray Key. He had added collars to the 1" toolposts which were just lengths of 28mm copper pipe, which just happens to be a tight fit - needing a tap or two from a blunt implement to adjust! Having got used to my way of using my index finger, I removed the copper collars but I kept them just in case I changed my mind! ;)

I still stick to my original statements about shiny things being created to catch fishermen (or turners!).
Hi Paul,

Thanks for that. I agree that there is no "right" height setting depending on the tool in use.
The center/start position is set and I adjust from there.
If I had known of your index finger technique beforehand, I might have overlooked this.
Before the collar, I still have a sharpie ring mark on the post indicating center if/when the post drops unplanned.

I have always been drawn to shiny things but hate jewelry.
 
I think one thing this overlooks is that there is no "right" height for the tool rest. It varies depending on the tool in use and sometimes on the cut you are trying to make. I sometimes change the height of the toolrest to overcome the shape of the rest in relation to the cut I'm trying to make too.

My solution to the problem is to grip the toolrest with my index finger pointing down and along the toolpost so my finger rests on the top of the banjo so when I release the lock screw, the rest stays where it is and I can make micro adjustments or big adjustments as required without losing the start point as the reference. Do it this way and you don't need a locking collar.

Interestingly, one of my lathes was originally owned by the late Ray Key. He had added collars to the 1" toolposts which were just lengths of 28mm copper pipe, which just happens to be a tight fit - needing a tap or two from a blunt implement to adjust! Having got used to my way of using my index finger, I removed the copper collars but I kept them just in case I changed my mind! ;)

I still stick to my original statements about shiny things being created to catch fishermen (or turners!).
+1 for this. I also use Paul's method. Never had a problem. Been caught by other shiny stuff though. 😊
 
A few years ago I bought a Paul Howard fluting jig - nice bit of kit, I was sure it would come in handy.
Never used it - still in the box!
 
I was thinking about this as I put my new lathe together yesterday. I agree with others that there is no 'exact right height' - I often adjust it depending on tool, diameter/type of wood, how brave I am feeling .... hard to tell why. It occurred to me though, if I wanted a repeatable starting point for adjustments or maybe one or two set points I would cut a rectangle (or, sophistication, add a stepped edge on one side) out of an offcut of something like 6mm ply or mdf and use it as a gauge between the top of the banjo and bottom of the toolrest. Cost zero. Even that though seems unnecessary.
 
I was thinking about this as I put my new lathe together yesterday. I agree with others that there is no 'exact right height' - I often adjust it depending on tool, diameter/type of wood, how brave I am feeling .... hard to tell why. It occurred to me though, if I wanted a repeatable starting point for adjustments or maybe one or two set points I would cut a rectangle (or, sophistication, add a stepped edge on one side) out of an offcut of something like 6mm ply or mdf and use it as a gauge between the top of the banjo and bottom of the toolrest. Cost zero. Even that though seems unnecessary.
I look at it now as a reliable starting point. Do tell about that new lathe of yours
 
I think it's brIllant. Will I buy it. No. Will I repurpose something in my shop to copy it. Yes! I'm a wood turner, and the thing is round. And I have a threading jig! And by god, I have small bits of hardwood every where! I can even make couple of them, and paint them different colours. And have mine go up and down 1 1/2 , more than theirs .
 
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I think it's brIllant. Will I buy it. No. Will I repurpose something in my shop to copy it. Yes! I'm a wood turner, and the thing is round. And I have a threading jig! And by god, I have small bits of hardwood every where! I can even make couple of them, and paint them different colours. And have mine go up and down 1 1/2 , more than theirs .
Go for it - Happy new year.
 

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