The Perform CCL

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RPM

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Hi,

Can anyone give me the pro's and cons of this machine?

I have had a look back at recent posts but the all seem to be in different topics (if you know what I mean).

I am looking at getting it to re-kindle my school wood turning days.

Also, I need a new set of tools to go with it, Cheap as possible, but not cheap .

Thanks
 
This was my input in an earlier post about the lathe.

The set of perform tools (also to be found under other brandings) may not win any prizes for elegance but they are never the less adequate whilst learning turning and sharpening technique. I have not found it necessary to supplement them with more than 6 more to date, and those are just variations of size to suit my preferred method of working.
 
I have had the next model up for about a year now. I think the only difference is that the headstock can slide and swivel on the bed where as it can only swivel on the CCL. This is my first woodturning lathe and I think the machine is definitely value for money. I do mostly bowl turning with just occasional spindle work and it has coped with all I can throw at it, including unbalanced bowl blanks and large items that need to be turned outboard.

It can stall easily if you take heavy cuts, and the variable speed needs to be kept clean to ensure the change is smooth. In common with lots of cheap far east imports the edges are a bit rough (I had to do some filing including the toolrest) and one of the bristol levers has broken (replaced with a bolt).

I may consider upgrading in a few years as my skill level improves, but the Perform model is ideal for me as a beginner who didn't want to break the bank on his first lathe.

Mark h
 
Thanks for the replies to this.

I have been looking at the tools also needed for wood turning :shock:

It looked like I need to spend at least another £50+ on them!

I got a link today on a set of tools for £18....I will let you know what they are like.



Thanks again. :D
 
RPM":upjzr5zg said:
...snip...I have been looking at the tools also needed for wood turning :shock:
It looked like I need to spend at least another £50+ on them!

Don't forget to factor a Chuck System into your budget, another item likely to bring tears to your eyes.

Not essential but a whole different experience as far as convenience and ease of finishing is concerned.
 
Hello all,

Sorry for the late reply on this.
I was hoping to get the lathe as mentioned but as a novice to turning I could not justify the price of it.

Anyhow, I found a second hand (like new in fact) SIP 01488 for £50.

I have a few questions (I will try to put them in this same thread if that’s ok Mods)?

If not, please amend or ask me to re-post.

Q.1 My first turn on the lathe was a piece of pine (nice and soft) spindle style, and the end result was a disaster! It seemed to rip chunks out of the wood.
Is this my fault? Was the wood too dry? Or is it down to the tools? (More than likely the first). I was not too sure how fast the lathe was supposed to be going but I put it on 1750rpm. The lathe has 4 settings 850,1250,1750 and 2510 controlled by belt adjustment. I did take my time and did not try and rush the tool into the wood.

Q.2 As above…what is the rule for speeds? I know it might change for bigger cuts (pieces) but does the same go for types of wood? Hard, soft?


Q.3 I got a Faceplate with it too. The manual says to make a backing plate to fit onto it. Is the faceplate, one down from a chuck?

It seems the backing plate is made bigger, in order to make room for the screws? To fit the piece on to. What happens if the backing plate is bigger than the piece I want to turn?

Sorry for the Newbie questions but I figured this is the best place on the net to get some good answers.

If anyone needs photos to explain this better please tell me and I will post them.

Thank you.

RPM
 
RPM":3bhlcmlf said:
..snip..
Q.1 My first turn on the lathe was a piece of pine (nice and soft) spindle style, and the end result was a disaster! It seemed to rip chunks out of the wood.

For a start dry soft pine is not the easiest of woods to start on especially if it square section to start with, if the tool presentation is not correct then you will get large splinters flying off the corners and ends..

Main reason for using it is that it will most likely break before you or your tools do if you get it wrong.

It sounds like tool type or presentation is your problem. get yourself a copy of the late Keith Rowley's Book "Turning, a Foundation Course"and work through his examples. That way you should gain Safe Tool Presentation skills at least.

....snip...
 
Hi RPM,
Chas is spot on. I started turning this year & keith Rowley's book is the one I refer to most often. It's well worth getting hold of.
If you're impatient (like me :x ) and want an immediate source of reference, then Brian Cliffords site here http://www.turningtools.co.uk/wtintro/wtintro.html is very comprehensive; you'll be knee deep in shavings before you know it!

Good luck

Twister
 
Thanks for the replies to this 8)

I have ordered the book and will let you know of any sawdust that I make :oops: :D
 
RPM,
You haven't mentioned any sharpening capability. The very least you'll need is a grinder with a white or pink stone - I use that for roughing gouges and the Tormek for everything else. Plus I hone mine - although most turners will not. Actually I think most seem to only use the grinder, but I like to have as sharp a tool as possible, and a mirror hone just feels so much sharper.
The Tormek jig system suits me too.
 
Hi,

A big thanks to all who pointed me in the direction Of the Keith Rowley book.CHJ and Twister
I got it today and cannot put it down (apart from doing this post).
On the first few pages I have realised a mountain of Laws that I have got wrong.
Here is hoping I can start to turn some wood, Instead of hacking it!

Once again thanks. RPM

*Goes back to the book*
:D
 
wise decision RPM. :wink:
If you enjoy the book half as much as me, then I'll have enjoyed it twice as much as you :D :D :D :D
Happy reading

Twister
 
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