The Great Carlsberg Workshop Construction Project

[carlsberg]

Day 26...ish

Roof timbers almost finished....not enough T+G to finish it off !
When I initially ordered all the wood, I didn't account for the overhang at the eaves, and thats exactly how much I am short.
I am going to order in the morning, as there is a 4-5 day lead-time on treated timber....hoping I can get it delivered before they close down for xmas.

I am going to pick up the the felt, adhesive and the clout nails tomorrow and make a start at felting the 'finished' side of the roof.

:?: will I need a blow-lamp to heat the felt up to bend it around the eaves etc?





I am a long way behind schedule due to lots of work commitments recently, but I still think I can get the structure waterproof before the really bad weather comes along

Hopefully next pictures will be of a fully felted roof, and then I can start the decking area at the front.

Carlsberg

 

[Shultzy]

carlsberg, you need to fill that space in the apex before you put the felt on. I lay a 2ft strip of thinner felt over the apex before I put the thicker felt on. You can use a blowlamp or a heatgun but its not necessary unless its very thick felt. Let it fall over the eaves and then warm underneath till its pliable. Be careful you won't need a lot of heat.

 

[carlsberg]

Back on track with the never-ending project

The roof T+G deck is completely finished, and one half has been covered in felt...waiting for the wind to die down before felting the other half. I have just used an underfelt, which I am sure will last until summer when i intend to put on fibreglass shingles.

I am currently making window frames from the excess 4x2 left over.
The timber is 'scant' timber, but i reckon it has a better finish than most PAR i have bought in the past.

I have started to make the two front windows, as they are non-opening. I am probably going to make just a frame, and once the glass is fitted, stick a horizontal and vertical piece of timber on to divide up the window into 4.


Timber is cut to size on mitre saw with 45deg mitre on each end.
I then decided to copy the festool domino joint, but on the cheap and using homemade plywood dominos.
I did this as opposed to through-splines to make the joint more waterproof. However these front 2 windows are under the cover of the large front roof overhang.


I have made a large frame bonded to some chipboard, which is very accurate in 'square' . I did this as in the past, everytime I clamped something to glue, it never ends up true and square... :roll: I always measured the diagonals, and they were never equal...I found it very hard to make them equal :evil:

I used 30min polyurethane glue as it is supposed to fill gaps...there were plenty of gaps in my roughly done 'domino' holes.
I soaked the plywood in water, applied the glue to the joints, assembled the frame and clamped into the frame to keep it square.

5 mins later there was lots of glue foaming out, so I decided to remove from the large frame, and clamp up standalone as I didn't want it sticking to the frame with all the foaming glue.

I measured the diagonals, and they were not equal, and I couldn't make them equal........again!!! ( maybe I need more clamps!)

I then scraped off all the foaming glue and reclamped it back in the homemade frame.



A couple of hours later, I managed to prize the window frame from the clamping frame ( only taking a thin sliver of chipboard with me.)
Its diagonals were spot on, but took me another 15 mins to slice off more of solid foam that had come out of the joints. I am impressed with the results so far, tomorrow I will give the frame a good sanding, and then attach the piece that the glass will butt up against ( as in the next photo.)


I am thinking that most double glazing units are 24mm thick ( according to google,) I just need to find out some standard sizes of glazing bead so I can work out how much of a rebate to make.

Total build time is now approx 29 days.

I had to spend more money on T+G, roof felt and a bit more LogLap to be sure I have enough. I also bought 60m of roof felt, galv clout nails, and some external door frames.
The grand total is now a whopping budget-busting £2734.71 While this may seem a lot of money, my friend has spent a similar amount to go to Australia and watch The Ashes - he hasn't had half the fun I have :lol:

Next thing on the shopping list are some 80mm long screws to attach window frames and door frames.

Carlsberg

 

[carlsberg]

30 day update......

The window frames are still heavily under construction, but the decking has been 'nearly' finished

Got a quote for the DG units for the windows, they advised me to go for a unit consisting of a 4mm pane and a 6mm pane of glass.
They tell me this is better for sound proofing as the different thickness of glass resonate at different frequencies which blocks more sound. (They also said fit 6mm pane on the outer.)
They will also make the gap between the panes any distance I want, cost for all 4 windows approx £80. I will order when the frames are complete.



I need a day with no wind/rain so I can felt the other side of the roof, Saturday is looking promising.
The felt I have done has developed ripples, but I am not concerned as I intend to eventually use shingles on the roof.

The costs have increased by the £6 I spent on some 100mm screws for the door/window frames and some more Galv nails to assemble the decking subframe.
I also managed to buy a set of exterior french doors for £30 and also some yacht varnish for the doors and windows.

Total is now £2776.71

Carlsberg

 

[Fecn]

I do enjoy your workshop build thread You keep me plotting and scheming for the expansion of my own.

Thanks for posting an update

Fecn

 

[mel]

looking very good carlsberg
good work !!!!

 

[PowerTool]

Nice to see an update,looking forward to seeing it all finished.

And think you've got a good deal on the windows.

Andrew

 

[mailee]

Yep, I am well impressed Carlsberg. It certainly is looking the part now isn't it?

 

[cant-weld-wood]

very nice i must say if mine comes out like that id be very happy
keep up the good work


ps is the canoe there for the return back to the house if the rain gets to much

 

[carlsberg]

Day 32 update.

I managed to get the roof underfelt finished 3 weeks ago, and amazingly it survived the storm.
I have also fitted both front window frames, I have not started making the 2 side window frames yet.



Then I started on making the door frame. This was easy except that I needed to cut half an inch or so off the height of the hardwood doorstep. This was really tough going, my jigsaw didn't touch it as it was too deep. In the end I used a very sharp handsaw and that took about 30 mins ( with rests ) I used the vice on the mortiser i recently purchased to hold the doorstep. I think it is mahogany - it has been in my fathers garage for 10+ years and was really tough to cut.



Tomorrow I will hopefully screw the doorframe solidly to the structure, and fit the glass in the front windows. Maybe I will make a start on the 2 side window frames.



Money spent this time is £13 on beading, pins and silicone.
Also £63 for the 2 front windows. These are DG units consisting of a 4mm pane, then 16mm airgap and then 6.4mm laminated. This is what was recommended by the glazing company to be strong and reduce noise.
Grand total now £2,852.71

:?: Anyone know any cheap suppliers of fibreglass shingles in the NorthWest? Cheapest I have found is Wickes at £15.99 a pack.


Carlsberg

 

[mailee]

That is really looking good Carlsberg. I should imagine you will be pleased to see it finished and get in there with some projects. Nice work mate. :wink:

 

[carlsberg]

Update....day ????????? no idea, i have done lots of hours though

Doors hung using 3 Stainless bearing hinges. 6 hinges cost me £14.61


Most of the wall insulation now complete, i got 6 rolls of this 100mil insulation for £10 per roll.


On the front wall, i decided to add an extra layer to aid in noise insulation, as this part faces the houses. I added a layer of 3/4 ply which is screwed on 5mm battens over the insulation/dpc. I don't know wether it will do any good, but i had the ply lying around.



Soffit area covered over using loglap, leaving a 50mm gap to allow airflow in-between roof deck and insulation. I have got some soffit vent mesh that i am going to fix over the gap to stop insects and birds etc.
Also one of the opening windows has been fitted.


I decided to clad the inside walls with plasterboard in the interim. It wasn't expensive, and will allow me to use the building and clad it with a nice interior wood at a later date.

I also bought 25mm some foil faced rigid insulation boards, that i have put between the rafters, leaving a 50mm airgap above them between the roof deck.as the rafters are 6 inches, this leaves me 75mm, which i'm going to put the 100mill insulation into. This should really help to keep the heat from escaping out of the roof, and probably overkill. ( squeezing 100mil insulation into a 75mm gap reduces the insulation value, but the 25mm insulation board will help here.)


Here is the back of the building, with the soffits covered over. I did it this way to use up all the offcuts i had.


Bargeboards are now fitted front and rear, i made a template and drew the pattern onto the timber before using a jigsaw to cut it out. The gap at the front was because the ridge beam stuck out a little. I intend to make a nice large 'sunbeam' shaped finial to cover this over.
Front windows also fitted, they do not open.


Costs now at £3419.29.
Recent spends were....
dpc+window cills £55.68
6 hinges £14.61
fibreglass 6 rolls £60.00
10 8x4 25mm rigid insulation £126.00
wood+plasterboard £186.97
2 side windows( 4mm+6.4mm lam) £78.00
galv wire mesh, insect mesh, skirt board £45.32

Pictures are out of date, more work completed than shown.

I will update soon, i'm on the downward slope to completion now.

Carlsberg

 

[ByronBlack]

Looking superb carlsberg, probably the best... nah I won't go down that cliche!

Wouldn't look out of place in some woodland clearing, very smart!

 

[Chris Knight]

This is a great thread with a great looking result to show for it - super to have the cumulative build costs too - very informative.

 

[Sandy]

Well, that looks absolutely superb.

Are you sure that it's a workshop though. It looks good enough to live in!! Having said that, if I'd spent that much on a workshop the wife would be expecting to live in it........ in fact.....what a good idea. How much did it cost again??? Whatever it was I'm sure it's worth it.

Sandy.

 

[CABBY]

Come back and let us know it's finished :roll: Great to see in detail

 

[Gary S]

When you're finished do you fancy making me one?! :lol:

It's looking awesome, you've worked very hard (and not JUST on convincing SWMBO that it was a good idea...)

 

[carlsberg]

Hello,
Thankyou for the PMs, gave me the motivation to update this post, i wish you could drag & drop pictures onto the post :?

Ok, I have done plenty more hours on the build, and spent a little more money...here goes.

All the wall insulation and roof insulation was finished off, then covered with the DPM. This was very time consuming, especially putting the fibreglass inbetween the rafters. I then taped all the seems of the DPC to make a vapour-tight seal.

I then decided I would fit the interior wood cladding, with all the bad weather we have had..i wanted to stay dry 8)
I used B&Q el-cheapo thin cladding for the ceiling, and used a higher quality/thicker cladding for the walls - purchased from a local wood yard.




I attached the ceiling cladding with panel pins.
I used screws on the wall cladding, through the plasterboard, into the horizontal noggings. This involved me marking out the walls and using a spirit level to get all the screws running true a uniform.
The result is very pleasing to the eye with all the screws being level, and it will allow me to easily locate where 'solid-wood' is when i need to attach things to the walls at a later date.

I have made a start on building the front step, up onto the decking, ill post these pictures when i make more progress.

Ok, onto the spiraling costs..
Total spent to date now stands at £3753.85
new spends are..
ceiling cladding and pins £101.00
2 sterling boards £21.00
gable cladding £111.04
side cladding £101.52

I need 4 more packs of cladding to finish the interior, then i will concentrate on totally completing the exterior, ready for the shingles to go on.

:?: Can anyone recommend a matt clear varnish that i can coat the internal walls with? This will stop the wood getting grubby. I dont want the wood to turn yellow, otherwise i will leave untreated.

Thanks for reading,

Carlsberg

 

[Shultzy]

Carlsberg, I tend to use Ronseal polyurethane varnish. Its available in matt or satin at about £12 - £13 and is easily thinned.

 

[mailee]

Tha t is looking great Carlsberg. I did wonder how you were getting on with it as there hasn't been any posts of late. No wonder with all the work you have been putting in. Has it gone much over your budget as I notice they are getting pretty high now? Keep up the good work. :wink: