tenon saw sharpen and set

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I think the idea is that you get two for the price of one. Just a guess though. The cutting lengths look a little short to me but then again I've never used a double ended file. I'll stick with the regular files. A Bahco costs around £6 and will sharpen around 20 saws (according to P.Sellers). I don't think he means major tooth shaping but still, it's very little money per saw even if one file services just 3 or 4 saws.
 
J_SAMa":zmmxu7av said:
Hi,
Well this question isn't really related but I didn't want to start another thread:
Why and when are "double ended" saw files used? Is there really a major difference between them and regular ones?
Sam
You get a longer stroke with a single ender which means more metal removed at the same angle. Seems faster too, not having to to-and-fro so much.
 
One reason for using double ended files is that they fit into the Eclipse saw sharpening guide. It's quite a useful bit of kit until you get the hang of freehand sharpening, but it's a logical nightmare getting the file at the right angle as there are preset stops in the handle which always seem to be in the wrong place :(
 
dickm":tnkufvdb said:
One reason for using double ended files is that they fit into the Eclipse saw sharpening guide. It's quite a useful bit of kit until you get the hang of freehand sharpening, but it's a logical nightmare getting the file at the right angle as there are preset stops in the handle which always seem to be in the wrong place :(

I found it horrendously intrusive - it takes more time and skill to place the jig than it does to do without it, and it's not even that precise.

My (and Mignal's) solutions help by magnifying errors, allowing a more accurate hand-eye feedback. But the (physical) control is your hands.

BugBear
 
Jacob":13ycyg8x said:
PS P Sellers says anything smaller than 9tpi might as well be rip filed straight across as it's easier and there is no noticeable difference. Sounds good to me.

Sellers is a good deal more complex than that. He says that a saw of around 14 - 16 TPI, file accordingly to his "magic" pattern (which has no fleam, but has some other complexities) can be used for both cross and rip cutting.


BugBear
 
bugbear":2hacpnuw said:
Jacob":2hacpnuw said:
PS P Sellers says anything smaller than 9tpi might as well be rip filed straight across as it's easier and there is no noticeable difference. Sounds good to me.

Sellers is a good deal more complex than that. He says that a saw of around 14 - 16 TPI, file accordingly to his "magic" pattern (which has no fleam, but has some other complexities) can be used for both cross and rip cutting.


BugBear
He's clear in the book (9tpi or more rip cut pattern) and keeps it simple. Couldn't see any ref to 14-16 tpi but might have missed it.
 
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