Temporarily stop shower

[JamiePattison]

Were having our bathroom tiles replaced and one of the tasks is to remove the shower temporarily.

I can't turn off the water for the shower only so the only way is to turn the water off completely then remove the shower.

If I do this the water will start to run once the water turns back on so I assume there could be something I could do to block this pipe temporarily until the tiling work is complete?

Does anyone know what I could do to block this shower temporarily?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Find where the supply comes in and put full bore isolating valves on it, or put stop ends on it temporarily.

 

[JamiePattison]

Find where the supply comes in and put full bore isolating valves on it, or put stop ends on it temporarily.

Ok, do you have a link of these valves at all so I know what I'm looking for?

 

[hunter27]

Is the shower valve fitted internally in the wall?
Is it surface mounted?
Is it gravity fed from a tank or on a unvented or combi system?
It is really hard to help when we can only guess at what you have.
A picture would help a lot.
I will google the valves for you------- full bore valves - Google Search

 

[JamiePattison]

Is the shower valve fitted internally in the wall?
Is it surface mounted?
Is it gravity fed from a tank or on a unvented or combi system?
It is really hard to help when we can only guess at what you have.
A picture would help a lot.
I will google the valves for you------- full bore valves - Google Search

Sorry didn't know you needed more info but:
1. I would guess into the wall as the only way I've managed to stop the water is by turning off the water from the mainly supply.
2. It's tiled age the existing shower is still there.
3. I'm not sure but can try and find out if the picture doesn't give you enough information.

So ideally the valve is temporarily in place whilst the work is carried out then I'll remove them.

As you can tell from the image, I will turn off the water supply, undo the nuts connected to the wall/tiles in the image. At this stage I need to stop the water flow by temporarily adding this valve so when I turn the main water supply back on the water doesn't come through.
Once the work is complete then I will undo the valve and reconnect the shower.

Would the link you sent still be the correct one now that I've provided more info?

Thanks

 

[eribaMotters]

Jamie, you do not put the isolation valve on the mixer, but in-line in the pipework. Try and locate if the pipe is coming up or down to the mixer. If there is a loft space above the bathroom you may be in luck.
If unsure I would advise a plumber. I have refitted a few bathrooms and always used the same method. Plumber were needed to cut back pipes and isolate. I then spend my time ripping out and starting the refit. Plumber back in for a couple of hours to do new pipe runs. I then fit, tile etc and get them back in for any final connecting.

Colin

 

[JamiePattison]

Jamie, you do not put the isolation valve on the mixer, but in-line in the pipework. Try and locate if the pipe is coming up or down to the mixer. If there is a loft space above the bathroom you may be in luck.
If unsure I would advise a plumber. I have refitted a few bathrooms and always used the same method. Plumber were needed to cut back pipes and isolate. I then spend my time ripping out and starting the refit. Plumber back in for a couple of hours to do new pipe runs. I then fit, tile etc and get them back in for any final connecting.

Colin

When I spoke with the plumber he advised its situated behind the wall by the mixer taps as he had a similar setup with someone else in the area but he wouldn't undo it as it meant he would need to break the wall to see where it is and can't repatch it, so it meant finding someone else to do that work.

Is there a way to temporarily block the mixer tap pipes with another nut or something?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

https://www.toolstation.com/made4tr...EEBseEg-SVD1bq61ryBoCsQ0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Probably 22mm though.

 

[Dee J]

Typically anyone who works on plumbing will have a box of bits and fittings, as well as a selection of blanks. Find something that fits the exposed threads, turn it into a blank with the scrap and skills at your disposal. Really amazed if a 'plumber' you were talking to didn't have such bits and ingenuity at hand.

When I spoke with the plumber he advised its situated behind the wall by the mixer taps as he had a similar setup with someone else in the area but he wouldn't undo it as it meant he would need to break the wall to see where it is and can't repatch it, so it meant finding someone else to do that work.

Is there a way to temporarily block the mixer tap pipes with another nut or something?

 

[Spectric]

I can't turn off the water for the shower only so the only way is to turn the water off completely then remove the shower.

Always amazes me why for the sake of a few quid people don't fit or get fitted isolation valves in there plumbing systems. It can save a lot of issues and allow the rest of the system to continue operation whilst you fix the outstanding job. Also you often do not need full bore valves if there are flexable pipes used to connect to brassware as these have only a small bore anyway. Isolation valves are also more important now because we use ceramic cartridges in taps rather than a good old rubber washer.

The places I would use isolation valves are:

Toilet cisterns
Showers
Main radiator feed and returns
All outside taps / supplies

The valves I would recommend are not the cheap £2 items as they can just add to your problems.

For places where full bore are not required Pegler Isolating Valves | Brassware, Valves & Taps | Screwfix

If you want full bore and can accomodate then these are great and come in red / blue handles

https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-tee-ball-valve-red-15mm/29086
or for isolation of main central pipework then go for the lever valves

https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-ball-valve-red-22mm/45277
The valves to avoid are these type of gate valves with round pressed tim handle

https://www.screwfix.com/p/gate-valve-15mm/85316
Unless you operate them on a regular basis they will seize and not operate when you really want them to.

 

[Spectric]

@Phil Pascoe 's idea of these for temporary sealing the pipes is good if there are already olives on the pipes and the shower nuts match the thread. For temporary sealing pipes with no olives I use cheap pushfit like Hep2O Demountable Stopend 15mm | Toolstation

https://www.toolstation.com/made4tr...EEBseEg-SVD1bq61ryBoCsQ0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[JamiePattison]

I would have it done with isolated valves but no offence to plumbers, if it's a task which causes them extra work which they don't fancy, then they charge silly amounts just to swerve the customer towards their direction. You have to find someone with the correct skills and willingness IMO.

Not all plumbers do this but most do.

 

[Spectric]

if it's a task which causes them extra work which they don't fancy,

I find there is little difference in time between doing a job right and cutting corners, they are more than likely being cheapskates or just incompetant.

 

[Thingybob]

Always amazes me why for the sake of a few quid people don't fit or get fitted isolation valves in there plumbing systems. It can save a lot of issues and allow the rest of the system to continue operation whilst you fix the outstanding job. Also you often do not need full bore valves if there are flexable pipes used to connect to brassware as these have only a small bore anyway. Isolation valves are also more important now because we use ceramic cartridges in taps rather than a good old rubber washer.

The places I would use isolation valves are:

Toilet cisterns
Showers
Main radiator feed and returns
All outside taps / supplies

The valves I would recommend are not the cheap £2 items as they can just add to your problems.

For places where full bore are not required Pegler Isolating Valves | Brassware, Valves & Taps | Screwfix

If you want full bore and can accomodate then these are great and come in red / blue handles

https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-tee-ball-valve-red-15mm/29086
or for isolation of main central pipework then go for the lever valves

https://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-ball-valve-red-22mm/45277
The valves to avoid are these type of gate valves with round pressed tim handle

https://www.screwfix.com/p/gate-valve-15mm/85316
Unless you operate them on a regular basis they will seize and not operate when you really want them to.

Totally agree but also kitchen sinks on hot and cold I have just fitted a shower and first job was 2 full bore isolation valves at the point just before they join to the mixer bar I lucky as I had built a stud wall end to the shower so left an access panel behind valves that is hidden behind a cupboard so future proof , As for the use of gate valves definitely not I have had to replace all pipework from the tank because they were fitted and blocked up restricting flow and to make things worse they were replacement valves for other gate valves they left in when they broke

 

[guineafowl21]

https://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-plastic-push-fit-stop-ends-15mm-2-pack/94176
Job done.

 

[AJB Temple]

Fully agree re valves. Fit accessible isolation valves to every appliance and tap supply. Costs very little and can save a lot of hassle later. Take photographs of all pipe runs prior to closing and tiling. Keep in house file. Likewise wiring.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Where I worked the plumbing had been altered, added to and generally bodged for many decades. Forty years ago I started fitting isolators on everything I ever worked on - it could take a couple of hours to find a stopcock to do a five minute job. It became habit in the end.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

My rising main. It's half way up a wall so I can reach it from a wheelchair.

 

[JamiePattison]

I find there is little difference in time between doing a job right and cutting corners, they are more than likely being cheapskates or just incompetant.

Could be.... Recently I needed to install a new shower tray which had stands on the existing one.

At the time the plumber advised not to use the existing leg stands but to build a wood frame, place the new shower tray on that and he will silicone it off and install the shower tray. Silicone was industry standard.

For this work he quoted £500! I thought that I could do the frame by drilling into the wall with standard wood blocks from B&Q for around £20 but I couldn't understand why such a high cost when the item itself is around £300, even then he was rejoining the waste bit in the tray and the pipe under it.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I find there is little difference in time between doing a job right and cutting corners, they are more than likely being cheapskates or just incompetent.

I've found often it's just a lack of thought or intelligence. I've come across loads of jobs that if done properly would have taken no longer and cost no more.