Teak Garden Table Restoration

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Skeety

Established Member
Joined
4 Feb 2014
Messages
334
Reaction score
58
Location
Berkshire
Hi All,

I recently purchased a Teak garden table and 6 reclining chairs which was in need of some (a lot of) TLC.

As part of the process i'll be reducing the diameter from 6' to 5'

What would you guys recommend to finish the table with? I have pretty much removed all the weathering and discoloration from the wood so don't really want to stain it.

I have Teak oil, Danish Oil but Osmo Poly X has been mentioned and more than happy to consider others.

Currently the table looks like a pile of firewood but would like to take the opportunity to apply the finish to all the parts before reassembly to give it the best protection after spending hours and hours sanding it.

What grit would you go to before applying the finish and what would the method of application be?

Cheers,

Jon.
 
I use teak oil on my bench, although I dont know if there much difference between it and Danish oil, finishing oil etc. If it is weathered grey, the oil will bring back some life into it but it will never look new since the UV has killed off the lignin.

The key thing I guess is to scrape / sand off any black mould.

I would think 120 grit would be smooth enough yet allow the oil to penetrate.
 
Thanks Robin,

I have belt sanded it with a 60 grit, then 80, then 80 with the random orbital and have got rid of 95% of the weathering and grey and got a really nice finish.

Would you dilute the first coat of oil? I'm planning on doing 3-5 coats on the bits that will be hard to access.

Cheers,

Jon.
 
I dont dilute Danish oil / teak oil -I should think it will soak in easily.

If youve sanded through the grey, oil will bring out the colour nicely. I tend to use a rag to apply it. Your idea of quite a few coats is best, keep the coats thin and wipe off any excess as you go, so it dries well. A friend of mine oiled a new oak floor very liberally, but after is was still wet after a week he wished he had read the destructions!

However many coats you apply, it wont greatly extend the time before it needs recoating, outside the sun and rain will kill off the oil reasonably quickly. A quick rag over of oil every so often will keep it looking great.


Robin
 
Thanks :)

I have a test piece that's going to be replaced to try the Teak Oil and Danish oil on, I was given a large tin of Homebase Teak oil with the table of unknown age... Does it degrade or should I just go and buy a tin of Liberon etc. ?

Cheers,

Jon.
 
Be aware of cheap knock off teak oil. I cannot recommend strongly enough to buy from a very reputable supplier. I bought once a tin from eBay, I ended up with black teak furniture after a couple of weeks! A very cheap expensive mistake to have made!,
 
Thanks,

I have already got about 10 hours into it just sanding so not going to risk my hard work with a cheap finish1 :)

What brands would you recommend? I'm looking at Liberon for either the Teak Oil or Danish Oil currently the other contender is Osmo Poly X

Cheers,

Jon.
 
Liberon products are very good, I always use their Danish oil. Ive no experience of the Osmo, but I know people on here use it so Im sure someone will advise on that.

I dont know if there is any real difference between teak and Danish oil, these oils contain mineral spirits, linseed oil, possibly some tung oil, fungicides etc. My understanding is that Danish oil has drying agents so will dry completly and multiple coats will end up looking like varnish.

Dont forget to keep the used rags in a metal container, if the rumours of self-igniting are true!
 
Thanks,

It's about the same work as I was planning but seems really really good results wise. I have ordered a tin and will see how it goes :)

Cheers,

Jon.
 
Back
Top