Table saw with scoring blade

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Matty

Matty

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I am looking for a decent workshop table saw that has a scoring blade or the option to add one as an extra. I will be making a fair bit of cabinetry and will be cutting veneered board but I don't want a panel saw as I believe they are not as versatile. Does anyone have any suggestions?
 
Try Scott and Sargeant and MJM they both do new and used machines.
I think maybe the description of what you want is a cabinet saw.
When you say you don`t want a panel saw do you mean a wall saw or just a giant table saw with a sliding arm?
Only because the descriptions can get murky and overlap each other. I have seen a pretty small Record power Table/ panel saw with a scoring blade. Often the smaller ones have quite neat foldable arms to get the best of a panel and rip saw.
I suspect most of the usual subjects will do one I know SCM do, or of course Martin and Altendorf if you are a millionaire.

Ollie
 
What is your budget, available space, and available power? Any of the European slider saws will either have a scoring blade or the option of ordering the saw with a scoring blade. Depending on the model, you will need a significant amount of floor space for the slide and outrigger. I don't know about all of the manufacturers, but it's not possible to add a scoring blade to the SCM saws if it was purchased without the option. I have the SCM SC2 Classic, with the scoring blade, and am very happy with it.

Festool is releasing a new tracksaw that has a scoring blade. The TSV 60 K has a 60mm cutting depth (55mm when used with a guide rail) at 90 degrees. The saw has a separate motor on the front of the saw plate with a 47mm diameter scoring blade.

I am using my TS55 track saw more than I used my SC2C for sheet goods. However, I'm not ready to spend over €1K on the TSV 60 K.
 
I have an SCM sliding panel saw similar to Mikes and love it. If you are doing cabinets I would say a panel saw is definitely the way to go.

People say they take up a lot of space, the bigger ones do but it's mainly the size of what you are cutting that takes up the space, for example if you are ripping down sheets you need 8' in front and behind the saw whatever style of table saw you are using.

I think people are influenced by all the Americans on Youtube using sleds on their cabinet saws but a sliding panel saw does all this and more plus is much safer.

Mine has a 6' slide, I was a bit worried if I had enough space for it but if I was buying again I would happily go for an 8' as they just make life easier.
 
Matty said:
my budget is about 5k.

That looks nice, are you able to stick a dado stack in it? I have a record power band saw and very happy with that apart from the tension indicator which broke immediately 😀.
Click to expand...
No, no dado blade option.
That is the one thing you will have to find another way.
Hasn't held me back yet 😉
 
I thought I wanted a table saw that would accept a dado stack, but after months of searching I realized I would not find any. At the risk of overgeneralizing and being very mistaken, any machine that has the potential to be used in a commercial environment must meet the EU specifications for health and safety.

For saws, this includes the blade stopping within about ten seconds. The dado stack can add too much rotating mass to the arbor, and might not meet the braking limits. Additionally, the dado stack will not work with the blade guard installed. There are exceptions, and I think the Hammer (Felder) line of saws can be ordered with an arbor that will accept a dado stack, but the Hammer line is not intended for commercial operations. The SCM (Minimax) saws sold in the US can be ordered with longer arbors.

Ultimately, I realized I did not need a saw with a dado stack. My router table and hand-held router (with guide rail) have not failed to meet any dado or rabbet requirements for my projects.
 
I use a Startrite that has a scoring blade, but I haven't used this scoring facility in years. I was introduced to specialist, 'triple chip' saw-blades by a colleague in a neighbouring workshop, many years ago, and I have to admit that they do a pretty good job with veneered board. If you haven't tried them, it might be worth a bit of experimentation .
 
MikeK said:
I thought I wanted a table saw that would accept a dado stack, but after months of searching I realized I would not find any. At the risk of overgeneralizing and being very mistaken, any machine that has the potential to be used in a commercial environment must meet the EU specifications for health and safety.

For saws, this includes the blade stopping within about ten seconds. The dado stack can add too much rotating mass to the arbor, and might not meet the braking limits. Additionally, the dado stack will not work with the blade guard installed. There are exceptions, and I think the Hammer (Felder) line of saws can be ordered with an arbor that will accept a dado stack, but the Hammer line is not intended for commercial operations. The SCM (Minimax) saws sold in the US can be ordered with longer arbors.

Ultimately, I realized I did not need a saw with a dado stack. My router table and hand-held router (with guide rail) have not failed to meet any dado or rabbet requirements for my projects.
Click to expand...
I'm starting to do more tennnons and thought the dado stack on table saw would be good for that, I would love a spindle moulder for doing that but not sure what to get.
 
I’d get either a secondhand Altendorf or SCM. If your a one or two man band try to avoid lots of electronics wizardry, just more to go wrong and IMO only beneficial in semi production / repeat cuts it when employing low skilled.
 
I had an Elektra Bekum saw with a scoring blade but found it a nuisance. If the scoring blade is fractionally wider than the cutting blade you don't get a clean 90 degree cut - the scoring blade effectively takes a very small rebate off the top of the cut. If the scoring blade is narrower than the cutting blade the cut is enlarged by the cutting blade.
I like to change blades around depending on the material being used and found the best blade by far for melamine and veneered finishes was a hollow ground blade. However my saw has a 5/8 " arbour and I had to order an Amana blade from the US. It gives . perfect results so I would only consider a scoring blade in an industrial setting where the same material is used and the setup can be optimised.
 
recipio said:
If the scoring blade is fractionally wider than the cutting blade you don't get a clean 90 degree cut - the scoring blade effectively takes a very small rebate off the top of the cut. If the scoring blade is narrower than the cutting blade the cut is enlarged by the cutting blade.
Click to expand...

The kerf of the 80mm scoring blade on my saw is the same as the 48T and 72T blades I normally use. I set the lateral adjustment of the scoring blade when the saw was commissioned and haven't touched it since. The 28T blade has a larger kerf, so I lower the scoring blade when I'm ripping lumber.

I imagine it could be a challenge if the kerf of the scoring blade was different than the main blade.
 
MikeK said:
The kerf of the 80mm scoring blade on my saw is the same as the 48T and 72T blades I normally use. I set the lateral adjustment of the scoring blade when the saw was commissioned and haven't touched it since. The 28T blade has a larger kerf, so I lower the scoring blade when I'm ripping lumber.

I imagine it could be a challenge if the kerf of the scoring blade was different than the main blade.
Click to expand...
Yes, ideally both blades should have the same kerf. Another thing I disliked was having to cut panels with the face down on the table. It's a good way to scratch the surface and you can't see the quality of the cut until it's all over.
 
recipio said:
Yes, ideally both blades should have the same kerf. Another thing I disliked was having to cut panels with the face down on the table. It's a good way to scratch the surface and you can't see the quality of the cut until it's all over.
Click to expand...
Oops....... sorry, the scoring blade cuts on the bottom side. It's been a few years since I used one.:rolleyes:
 
I do need to cut solid wood on it too, the TS2 states it's good for that also, don't know about minimax so will have to ring s&s tomorrow I think and have a chat.
 
It's a Minimax SC2 that @MikeK has so sure he will answer any questions, I have the SC4 which I presume is practically the same just bigger.

The Minimax stuff is made in Italy by SCM, it's decent quality, totally different class to all the rebadged Chinese stuff.
 
Matty said:
I'm down to two I think now.

https://www.scosarg.com/minimax-sc2-c-panel-saw-1ph
or

https://www.scosarg.com/record-ts2-sliding-table-panel-saw-1ph
still undecided, both look good, anyone used or got the minimax? I know Rob is happy with his TS2
Click to expand...
I would go and have a look in person if you can. Stuff like ergonomics and how the fences and guards work are very personal and also related to the work you mainly do.
The trouble is that in order to see the stuff you are initially interested in you might need to go past the Martins and stuff.

Ollie
 

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