Table Saw Throat Plate

[mbartlett99]

Hi All

Just gone and bought myself a nice shiny table saw - no name version of the SIP 01332/Axminster 10" - on the web for 500 quid. Well pleased generally but have a small issue; the throat plate has a huge gap inboard to accomodate the 45 degree bevel which obviously plays havoc with cutting laminates.

No problem, make a zero clearance insert I hear you say. Thats where its a little trickly, the existing plate is 3.2mm steel plate and while I could machine up some 18mm mdf (which I have in abundance) the supporting lip on the table will require some serious faffing to machine the 18mm down to 3.2mm around the edge.

I had thought about buying some 3.2mm phenolic sheet to cut up but does anyone have any other ideas?

 

[monkeybiter]

I have the Axi 12" [gloat] and used a piece of laminate flooring. I had to mill a thin lip [approx 3mm IIRC] which I did using the router table as a thicknesser, ie pulling the edge of the insert between the cutter and the fence [clamped batten]. I was worried that it wouldn't be strong enough and would bow down in use, but it's doing it's job well so far.

 

[Chems]

I had a piece of Fireback that you can buy from B&Q from my first router table years ago. This is exactly the right width for the saw. Machine up more than one when you do so you'll have new ones when you need. I tried MDF first but it was no good. It began to warp and that meant the work piece was catching on the risen edge as you fed work in. Very annoying and a dangerous distraction so close to the blade.

 

[devonwoody]

I purchased some 3mm ali. plate together with another member off ebay and that worked for us.

Warned off the plastic sheet because it can shatter and you dont want bits flying around if it happens.

 

[mbartlett99]

I had thought of the ali but was a bit apprehensive of machining the slot - don't have many metalworking tools with me. I could use an old router cutter I suppose - routed the edges of plate before with a chamfer bit. No doubt a knackered blade would cut through it too but I'm a bit nervous of that.

What do you mean by fireback?

 

[Tony Spear]

Why not get a local engineering company to machine one up for you (steel or aluminium), drop it straight in and Bob's yer wotsit.

Might be someone on here who could do it for you, in exchange for the appropriate number of beer vouchers! :wink:

 

[devonwoody]

Regarding cutting the slot it is no problem if it is ali.

Just wear protection and wind up the blade gradually, it worked ok for me.

 

[JakeS]

Why not get a local engineering company to machine one up for you (steel or aluminium), drop it straight in and Bob's yer wotsit.

Personally, I'd be concerned that I couldn't measure the position of the blade and riving knife within the throat precisely enough to give my requirements to the engineers!

 

[mbartlett99]

Stuff it, have the original blade which I don't intend to use apart from destroying 2x4s - ally it is. Now just to go get some.

 

[devonwoody]

Stuff it, have the original blade which I don't intend to use apart from destroying 2x4s - ally it is. Now just to go get some.

You really ought to cut the slot with the blade you intend using because of accuracy.

(ali will not hurt your blade)

 

[mbartlett99]

Yes you're right, I just get a bit precious with new blades.

 

[Mark A]

I haven't tried this myself, but I read in a magazine a way to convert an existing standard plate to a zero clearance plate:-

Remove the plate, put a piece of tape over the top opening, place upside-down on a flat surface and pour in a little bit of epoxy. Once it is set, remove the tape, put the plate back in place and cut though by raising the blade.

I don't know how well it would work. Anyone tried this?

 

[mbartlett99]

Makes a certain amount of sense. Only trouble would be that the thickness of 3.2mm would give the epoxy little to hold onto and also epoxy is not very kind to blades. Might work pretty well with a thicker plate though. Just my guess.