Table Saw - Noise Levels

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Thanks for all the advice!

I've been thinking a lot over the last few days about whether I should be getting a bandsaw instead and there are a lot of interesting articles out there. From my limited experience with a bandsaw it seems to needs a lot of adjustment (but that could have been down to poor equipment). My next two projects are ripping some stock to make some french cleats and creating some shelves. After that I'll probably try my hand at some boxes. Thinking about it I can produce rough sizes with my circular saw for detailing on a bandsaw but what about ripping? How do the cuts on a bandsaw compare to a table saw (in general)?

Cheers,

James
 
This is all down to the work you plan on doing. The bandsaw is probably more versitile in general. If you're only doing small size pieces, you'll find a mid range bandsaw can do most of the work.

However, for larger work like cutting up sheet goods or big panels then a tablesaw/tracksaw/circular saw is better suited.

Again, all down to your work and style, but I think in general, you'd want to get a decent bandsaw first, and then invest in a table saw at a later date if need be. Don't forget that table saws have a much larger footprint, which is worth considering if you have a small workspace.
 
Thanks for all your advice guys. I'm heading to D&M Tools tomorrow to see some of these tools in real life and I'm definitely maybe going to pick up and bandsaw...
 
Sorry for re-floating this post guys but I am right now in a very similar crusade and would like to ask the author of the post what machine he bought finally...

I am moving next week in a new purpose-built flat with an external area, surrounded by other houses.

I was 100% decided to get myself a portable table saw for around 150GBP but then I started thinking that this is not a very good presentation card to the neighbors so I'm thinking of alternatives now.

My main project is to build custom picture frames. I can't find this kind of projects with bandsaw, but do you think it's possible? Looks like all projects I can find are curved shapes boxes ...

Thanks in advance for any reply! This forum looks great and I'll be definitely spending many many hours reading through old posts to get some knowledge :D
 
MikeJhn":1c9cd4c0 said:
Have a look at this chart for a comparison of noise thresholds: http://www.industrialnoisecontrol.com/c ... amples.htm

Mike
For the record, that table is plain wrong.

The difference between 70dB(A) and 100dB(A) is about 1024x (sound power) NOT the 8x quoted.

And you need the "(A)" suffix too, for the numbers to mean anything in absolute terms. Otherwise dB is just a ratio, only expressed slightly differently. The "A" means a specific shape to the noise and a reference to a specific sound level.

It shows how sloppy the industrial acoustics industry is: the public think it's akin to witchcraft and they trade on that.

I wouldn't trust any noise specs unless they are properly expressed, and that ALSO includes the distance they are measured from and the direction too. Obviously, to take a silly example, a jet engine will be a lot louder from the back! And people are often killed on train tracks because they don't hear the train; from the side they are a lot louder than front or back.

On topic, most of the noise is from the blade. As a rule, the harder the saw is working, the louder it will be (wider kerf, faster feeds, thicker stock), and you alsk have to account for the resonance of what you are cutting, for example sheet goods behave like drumskins.

There's no easy answers, except three things:

1. The bigger the saw (motor power), the noisier it will be.

2. Induction motors are a lot quieter than brushed ones.

3. Similarly sized saws will make similar amounts of noise doing similar things.

And a fourth thing is that saws are almost impossible to silence, as most of the noise comes from the blade and the workpiece.

E.

PS: Mike, not having a personal dig at all - that table ought to be useful, but it's got basic errors a layman wouldn't spot.
 
JDB":31vq32mt said:
Thanks for all the advice!

I've been thinking a lot over the last few days about whether I should be getting a bandsaw instead and there are a lot of interesting articles out there. From my limited experience with a bandsaw it seems to needs a lot of adjustment (but that could have been down to poor equipment). My next two projects are ripping some stock to make some french cleats and creating some shelves. After that I'll probably try my hand at some boxes. Thinking about it I can produce rough sizes with my circular saw for detailing on a bandsaw but what about ripping? How do the cuts on a bandsaw compare to a table saw (in general)?

Cheers,

James

They are different tools really. If you decide to go for a bandsaw only bear in mind if you will need to deal with more clean up on the cut edge, as the cut isn't anywhere as clean as a tablesaw cut.

Bandsaw gives you the ability to cut deeper and cut curves. Table saw gives you the ability to cut wider stock and is arguably more flexible with the amount of jigs you can add.

Personally, having both is great, but if you can only have one then you need to pick based on what other tools you have and what you will be doing with it.

If the tablesaw is workshop based, you are better off with a cast iron top and an induction motor. There is a significant difference in terms of noise, and repeatability between site saws and units like these.

Consider the basic package Axy TS200Mk2 if space is a consideration as you are getting both of these things in a reasonably compact package.
 
James,

I recently bought the TS250. I've got some video of the noise it makes if you're interested. Just recorded on my phone though. I found the blade it came with screamed but it was better with a freud. My extractor is noisier.

With stock blade: https://goo.gl/photos/8VrRamPQskRbXZ916
Without a blade: https://goo.gl/photos/PP4PEYtxvo6WN5HTA

Obviously this is not during the cut. I don't think I've got a video of it with the freud but it's definitely less shrill.

This is the basic saw (no slider or table extension). I made a stand and mini extensions. It doesn't take up too much space and is on wheels.

IMG_20161226_154043949.jpg


Having a bandsaw is great, after fettling and learning the critical adjustments, but the finished cut (as Bodgers said) will usually need cleaned up quite a lot (different blades will vary). It's very quiet compared to most other tools I have. It can be used for accurate ripping but I'd say I use it more for rough cutting personally.

Carl.
 

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pohacaraio":30ywz0l0 said:
Sorry for re-floating this post guys but I am right now in a very similar crusade and would like to ask the author of the post what machine he bought finally...

I am moving next week in a new purpose-built flat with an external area, surrounded by other houses.

I was 100% decided to get myself a portable table saw for around 150GBP but then I started thinking that this is not a very good presentation card to the neighbors so I'm thinking of alternatives now.

My main project is to build custom picture frames. I can't find this kind of projects with bandsaw, but do you think it's possible? Looks like all projects I can find are curved shapes boxes ...

Thanks in advance for any reply! This forum looks great and I'll be definitely spending many many hours reading through old posts to get some knowledge :D

You can cut the mitre's for picture frames on a bandsaw using a purpose built mitre guide, the ones supplied with most bandsaw's are not accurate enough, but a must is cleaning up the cut to make it more accurate, this will require a guillotine, also applies with a table saw for really accurate finish work, I use one of these: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-mt ... mer-951813

Eric

Did not think for a minute that you where having a personal dig, but the chart did give a useful comparison, even if the detail was off.

Mike
 
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