Stopped Rebates for back of cabinet

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Zeddedhed

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I've posted about a cabinet I'm about to build for the wife asking about which joints are best for the corners.

which-joint-to-use-help-and-ideas-please-t83418.html

Next question is about the rebates on the back of the cabinet to fit an inset 13mm Oak Veneered board.
I actually want to make the rebate 25mm x 10mm (the board thickness is 20mm) so that I can then mount the cabinet using a French Cleat.
The top and bottom boards will need the rebate running full length and the side boards will need to have the rebate stopped.
Would the assembled throng of wise and expert woodworkers suggest that the router is best for this?
I don't have a huge assortment of duplex/skew/shoulder/rebate/voodoo planes so can't really think of any other way to do it.
I assume that this is a common cabinet making operation so presumably some of you have a good working solution to this.
I am prepared to be enlightened and made to look a bit stoopid though, so feel free.
 
You could try watching these for some router basics:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zSPFa3gI_aM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SoWnslcKNcg

My other advice would be to watch loads of videos on youtube to see what is possible. Then try out what you want to do on some scrap, just experiment with the different cutters you have to see what is possible.

That is pretty much how I have learnt what I know. Remember eye and ear protection and some sort of face mask and just be careful when your using the router, its a dangerous bit of kit
 
Thanks DC.
I'm pretty well versed in using routers - both freehand and mounted in a table. I know that the rebate CAN be cut this way.
What I'm interested to find out is what other methods there are that people here use and with what levels of success?
Is the router the preferred method, or am I better off chopping the rebates by hand?
 
If the top and bottom of the wall cabinet are out of the eyeline, Id be tempted to run through grooves on the sides 25mm in from the back. The top and bottom of the cabinet can then be made 25mm narrower and the back made full height.

The back can be screwed to the top and bottom. If the cabinet has vertical dividers or fixed shelves, these can be grooved also. With french cleats the full weight of the cabinet is taken by the fixings between back and sides etc of carcase.

Cheers Robin

Ps I read your bench thread with interest -how are you finding the bench to use?
 
Unfortunately Robin top and bottom both very visible.

I would have thought that this is such a common operation in cabinet making that there would be more comment.

With regards the bench - It's found it's place in the workshop really well. I use it every day and can't imagine how I got along without a vice before!! I've yet to decide where the dog holes are going to drilled and I still haven't fitted the tail vice. When I do I'll probably find it even more indispensable.
 
i would use a router for this task. i dont think you have many other options without purchsing a rebate plane etc. Even if you did, a router is the powertool to do the job unless you specifically wanted to do it by hand.
 

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