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Startrite tilt Arbor motor

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Matthew Woodworks

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Can anyone recommend a replacement 240v single phase motor that would be ok for my startrite tilt Arbor saw - also one that would be fairly easy to fit without too much agro?
Thanks
 

Distinterior

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Have you thought about having the existing one fixed...? It may be more cost effective.
What is actually wrong with the existing motor?
 

Matthew Woodworks

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Hi - it was replaced a few years ago and I don't have the original one anymore. The motor on there is faulty and very under-powered.
 

Distinterior

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Which model of Startrite saw is it!......145,...165,...175....275...1250...??
I believe the way the motor mounts is different on the 145 & 165 than it does on the others.
 

Distinterior

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This is a picture of the motor mounting on a 145 saw I refurbished and the 165 is the same and uses the same motor...

20170725_082805.jpg


Not sure why the image is upside down...? The original photo isn't!

If you click on the image, it will expand and the image is in the correct orientation.
 

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CHJ

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Distinterior":2dxvxup8 said:
….
Not sure why the image is upside down...? The original photo isn't!

If you click on the image, it will expand and the image is in the correct orientation.
That's because it was the orientation you took the images on your Samsung SM-T580 at 2017:07:25 08:28:05, the forum software assumes that is the orientation you wish to show it.

The image on your computer and the linked enlargement is handled by your Browser and uses the EXIF data to turn the image to that which it assumes is needed for normal viewing.

To show attachments in a different orientation you need to manipulate them in image software and remove any EXIF information attached to the image file relating to its original orientation.
 

Matthew Woodworks

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Hi - it's a 165 model. I can see the motor is much the same as the one in the photo? The problem with it is that is very underpowered? Maybe I need to get the motor refurbed? Or maybe it's something else? Once you start cutting with it - not even anything dense, it starts to run out of power? Any ideas would be very welcome.
Many thanks again.
 

Myfordman

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Has it always been underpowered or just been falling off recently? if the latter then the run capacitor could be defective and is a cheap (few £) ebay type purchase to fit a new one and see if it improves before you start >£100 motor changes.
there should be two capacitors on the right sort of motor and the Run capacitor is one with a lower capacitance ( xxmfd or xxuF figure) post photos of the printing both if unsure.
 

Matthew Woodworks

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That sounds like sound advice on the capacitors so I'll try that first. The saw came had been running rather sluggishly and then the motor was changed by a guy who used to sharpen our blades and it was worse! :)
 

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Myfordman

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How many capacitors does that motor have? I can't see any but there must be at least one. Can you get a decent photo of the rating plate and post it? That will tell lots of useful info not only about the motor power/speed but also if it is metric or imperial - important if the pulley is to fit without tears.
Your saw looks like it is designed for a foot moutning motor whereas the one further up the thread looks like a face mounting motor.
 

Distinterior

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Myfordman":efscbpv5 said:
How many capacitors does that motor have? I can't see any but there must be at least one. Can you get a decent photo of the rating plate and post it? That will tell lots of useful info not only about the motor power/speed but also if it is metric or imperial - important if the pulley is to fit without tears.
Your saw looks like it is designed for a foot moutning motor whereas the one further up the thread looks like a face mounting motor.
As Myfordman has said, that motor looks similar to the original but the way its mounting points are is different.
On the 145 & 165 saws, the motor mounts on the FRONT via an adapter plate with a non centric hole in it and the threads are Metric. By loosening the mounting bolts and rotating the motor, is how the belt tension is accomplished.

The original 240v motors only have 1 capacitor and its mounted on the side of the motor, normally with a protective cover over it, as can be seen in my photo above.

I have a picture of the rating plate of an original motor somewhere,....I'll see if I can find it.
The original motors were branded as "Brook Crompton"and were known as a "Gryphon" which is shown on the plate....
 

Myfordman

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Typically the capacitor is in a bulge on the side of the motor.

Rarely it can be located off the motor and in with the switch gear but this is usually on a multi-motor combi machine where one capacitor is shared between each of the motors to save a few quid.

capacitor.jpg


It has got to have one somewhere. Gonna be in the region of 40mm diameter and 90 mm long.
 

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Distinterior

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Myford Man,.....If the previous owner of the saw decided to remove the Capacitor and wire up the motor without one, would the motor run at all or would it just display the symptoms that are being described by Matthew....? Just curious!
 

Myfordman

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That is a surprisingly low powered motor and doubly surprising that it is not a capacitor start and run motor to boost the running torque. What size saw is that from?
My 10" cabinet saw (xcaliber) is a 3hp CSR motor and the 12" model uses 5hp motor.
 

Distinterior

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Myfordman":10r51jom said:
That is a surprisingly low powered motor and doubly surprising that it is not a capacitor start and run motor to boost the running torque. What size saw is that from?
My 10" cabinet saw (xcaliber) is a 3hp CSR motor and the 12" model uses 5hp motor.
It's from a Startrite TA 145 but it's the same motor that is normally fitted to a Startrite TA 165 that Matthew has.....
 
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