Stainless Steel inlay

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stev

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Hello all,

As part of my latest project I need to inlay some small stainless steel panels (100 x 80mm 2mm thick) into the centre of my veneered doors. My question is, what adhesive is best for this job?

After routing out the mortice for these I will be left with a very porous MDF surface and a hard stainless steel surface so what would be effective for joining these two materials?

Your experiences and opinions would be helpful.

Thank you
Steve
 
I use Sikaflex 291 to attach stainless tops to mdf subframes for vets operating tables. Never been able to get one off again in one piece..... DAMHIKT!!!

Graham
 
I would go with Graham's suggestion and definitely avoid epoxy of any sort. Some years ago I needed to veneer ss with maple for a structural component. Even after sand etching and degreasing epoxy would not form a strong bond. I did eventually find a two part adhesive whcih was highly effective but came with all sorts of warnings about liver and kidney damage from fumes and it certainly did smell evil. Can't remember what it was called now but if I had to do it again, I would go with the Sikaflex.

Jim
 
There's a recent article in Pop Wood where the founder of Bridge City Tools is recommending gluing brass inserts to wood using contact adhesive?
From the pictures it looks like a Titebond one?

Rod
 
Just to throw something traditional in the mix.......rub garlic on both surfaces, then use scotch glue. I have done some restoration with pewter inlay using this method, it had been done like this previously and had lasted 150yrs. Also it was easy to restore, without harm to the rather spendy antique.
 
If you are suggesting that the SS plates will be inlayed within the surrounding veneers, then double sided tape will do the job. Using VHB (very high bond), which is made for industrial performance, is clean, quick and instant. The general purpose ranges, tend to bond to dissimilar materials, so go for one of these, or you may have a roll lying about and have not thought of this...bosshogg
 
Thank you all for the help. I'm going with Bosshogg's suggestion of VHB tape as it sounds like it will be more than strong enough to hold a few grams of steel but more importantly it does away with the squeeze out problems of liquid adhesive. I'll let you know how I get on.
 
I had not thought of double sided tape - I am assembling a table this morning and will give it a go instead of the Sikaflex. It sounds quicker and cleaner......

Graham
 
dickm":1fiqxgkw said:
mtr1":1fiqxgkw said:
Just to throw something traditional in the mix.......rub garlic on both surfaces, then use scotch glue.

Is that a wind up?? :D? As a Scotch glue enthusiast, that's an idea I'd never come across :)

It's not a wind-up. I don't have it myself, but any Scotch glue enthusiast should have Stephen Shepherd's book on it, or at least read his excellent blog. See this page for references to hide glue with garlic for sticking metals!
 
Ernest Joyce mentions garlic rubbed on prior to sticking together even with araldite, or hide glue plus some turpentine. or the addition of plaster of paris. For me I have done none of these but interested to hear how it goes. Good luck.
 
AndyT":39p2xl1r said:
dickm":39p2xl1r said:
mtr1":39p2xl1r said:
Just to throw something traditional in the mix.......rub garlic on both surfaces, then use scotch glue.

Is that a wind up?? :D? As a Scotch glue enthusiast, that's an idea I'd never come across :)

It's not a wind-up. I don't have it myself, but any Scotch glue enthusiast should have Stephen Shepherd's book on it, or at least read his excellent blog. See this page for references to hide glue with garlic for sticking metals!

And it keeps out vampires!

:mrgreen:

Jim
 

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