Spindle molder tooling

[dexter]

I`m just about to order the Jet JSW-34LX spindle moulder,(plus a couple of other goodies!) from Axminster. It will be getting quite a bit of use in the manufacture of doors and windows etc for the renovation project I`ve got over here in France.
Being a newbie with spindle mouldiers I`m somewhat overwhelmed with the vast array of cutter blocks and the like that are available.
Can anyone advise me please as to what in their opinion are the must haves for this machine?
A power feeder will also be on the order list.
Thanks in anticipation,

Dex

 

[Modernist]

Avoid "sets" most of which you will never use

Dedicated window tooling is very expensive and only an option if you are going into long term production

No 1 must be a decent TCT rebate block with spurs. I would go for 125mm dia rather than the standanrd 100mm

Next for me would be an adjustableTCT slotter in the 3-8mm range possibly with an expander chipper to take it up 12-15mm.

A few bearing rings are useful for curved work to suit your chosen block diameters plus over and undersize if you need curved rebates or in/outset from curved templates.

If you want to tackle large tenons you either need dedicated tennoning heads or use your rebate block twice. If you get the type with a recessed bolt in the head (if you spindle is that type) then you can pass large tenons over the spindle.

After that maybe a universal block and buy the knives as you need them or an adjustable chamfer block.

I could go on........

 

[Max Power]

Spindle tooling is very expensive so I would start with a universal block, which will with the right cutters undertake a wide variety of jobs.
Wouldn't rush to get a powerfeed though, unless you intend to spend a lot time using the machine

 

[Dibs-h]

spare of underpants! :wink:

 

[Jacob]

....
Wouldn't rush to get a powerfeed though, unless you intend to spend a lot time using the machine

Can't agree there. A power feed transforms a spindle, making it much safer and improving the quality and consistency of the cut. Even for short runs they are worth the hassle and for long runs are essential.

 

[Max Power]

Couldn't disagree with that Jacob, and if money is no object then that would be the route to go.
It is perfectly feasible however to work safely without one and buy more tooling
In regards to safety, always remember, Never put your hands where you wouldn't put your todger :lol:

 

[Bluekingfisher]

I bought that very same machine a few months back from david Biven Machinery.

I bought a CMT cutter block but as yet have not gotten around to using it as a spindle moulder, purely because I have not had the chance to undertake a training course on it.

I have used it purely as a glorified router table (it comes with a 1/4" and 1/2" router collets) to date although the slower spindle speed doesn't lend itself well for small router bits.

I bought an american book on the "shaper" but the different terminolgy on cutter heads has confused me even further.

It's a great bit of kit though, can't fault it

 

[jasonB]

I'd go muh the same as Modernist, Rebate block with the TCT blades and spurs, Wobble saw is what I use for grooves but if you can afford the extra for teh adj groovers then they do give a flat bottom. And a block for Euro knives.

I would say that making all the doors and windows for a restoration job would be a reasonable amount of use and the feeder will make the job so much easier.

J

 

[Giff]

After using mine for a while without a power feed I would definitely go for one...it saves on the underpants too. Also a rebate block with turnblades ( Whitehill ) is really useful and Axminster do a Universal block which is a rebate and cuter block in one and if your spindle goes low enough you can pass work over the top of it. Geoff

 

[Allylearm]

Very versatile tool a Spindle, I bought and converted a spindle shaft for our Wadkin Heavy Duty to take a router bit, it came with a sliding table that I cannot remeber ever using. I had a lot of "T" slots to cut into the four faces of posts as I had a contract to make composters. Worked great and saved a great deal of time as I had 1000's to run.

As for tooling as other stated prior do not buy tool sets unless you realy have a use, I have some over the years bought by others and I find thme in the tool store gathering dust. I have converted to replacement tips for speed and finish. But as I can go through a lot of work daily on our spindles its a worthwhile investment as they match our Powermat Moulder and CNC Router tool holder so same tool can be swapped around to get same finish on varied machines.

 

[Jacob]

Spindle tooling is very expensive ...

Unless you make your own when they are much cheaper even than router cutters and you can copy precisely just about any moulding which comes your way. But nobody does that nowadays of course, oh no. :shock:
I notice the ebay price of the basic pre safety reg whitehill block has been creeping up quite steeply - you couldn't give them away a few years ago. I reckon there's a lot of secret DIY cutter-making going on.

 

[Allylearm]

I used to do profiling but you need the setup and labour time to carry it out. The serrated cutters were more than £10 a pair last time I bought them prior to retooling they lay in the cutter library and are turned out from time to time, the tips are cheaper and manufacturers like Whitehill keep your custom profiles in their computer and all you need do is reorder. Same goes for custom Router tips, the makers will do this for you as the CNC Router has need of specific shapes and left and right hands.

The point is that we now as an industry are minimilising our staffing compliment and competing with Poland in supply of timber products and there labour costs not to mention timber prices. The Russian timber market were moving factories from one place to another as timber declined where they were, they are only limited to where the train tracks run so moving to virgin ground around the factory is efficient method of harvesting.

We need the machines to run efficiently and cost margins are important. So need, unless you are specializing in supplying custom moulds is not realistic unless your a small specialist and the market was not prepared to buy at the cost needed to turn a decent profit I considered worthwhile. Everyone was running set moulds or shapes and the tips are easy setup and no need in some cases to take of the machine. That was my experience and the outlay to make Grinding work efficiently was rather a lot, I looked going the Weinig Route with Rondomat and CNC profiler and that would be a about £50k+at the time I looked for full auto on the grinder save labour time. I did have an old Weinig Rondomat after replacing a old Wadkin but it was not auto and kept a a man busy. It still is in the old Tool Room and does straight sharpen on our Planer heads and if I need to do a custom mould for Spindle or 6/5 Cutter.

I visit some of my timber suppliers from time to time and the Saw Doctor seems to be a thing of the past and they are even promoting through away router bits as they can be purchased very economically. Gone is the in house Tool room and they send away for sharpening like me or utilise tips technology whenever they can.

 

[RogerS]

If you've never used one before then try and get some training.