Spend my money

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JFC

Established Member
Joined
30 Sep 2005
Messages
2,180
Reaction score
0
Location
London
:lol: Ok so the slippery slope of the spindle moulder has begun . I already have the Omas cabinet door making set and a 40mm block with assorted cutters and limiters .
Scrit has already shown me the sliding bed attachment with a price tag of £500 .
So whats next ? Dedicated blocks , other attachments , what do spindle moulder users find a good bit of kit ?
Wonder what the price tag will be at the end :shock:
 
Rebate block
Adjustable groover (dial up)
Panel raising cutter
Thats about £500 if you go for quality, just a start plenty to add.

The trouble with spindles is there a bit like routers, once you have one you want another and before you know it you are starting to collect them, I suspect scrit knows what i'm talking about :wink:
 
seems to your friends jason that you need to think about more room in the workshop. where the f are you going to assemble the things after you have moulded them???? :lol:

i reckon you should get used to the easy jobs first then ask the question again when you know what you can do already :twisted:

paul :wink:
 
I think Snr has covered the main items to get. I would wait until you get a job that needs the item and offset part of the cost to that job rather than just going out and buying a load of tooling that may not get used for some time.

Remember that the standard cutters are HSS so will not last long in MDF, you can get a few of the common profiles in carbide but thats why the panel raising cutters are useful but will set you back a couple of hundred rather than £20 for a set of knives & limiters.

You will also have a limited range available to you with that 1" bore or will have to source adaptor bushes.

JAson
 
I'm pretty much with Senior's choices on this. I'd suggest a rebate block which uses disposable carbide tips and which has a skew cut. The rebate block will probably get most use of any of your blocks (hence the need for carbide) and you'll soon see why I regard dado heads in table saws as a very poor, second-rate substitute for machining rebates on the spindle. I'd also add a universal profile block to Senior's list - agreed, JasonB, tool steel or HSS cutters won't last on MDF, but it depends on what you're machining, and they're more than good enough for joinery softwoods and most hardwoods. I'd forget about buying a block/cutter set - from a trades perspective they're a complete waste of money as you'll probably just end up with profiles that you'll never use, much better to buy a block and start adding profiles as and when needed (there's a couple of guys on eBay selling sets with limiters for under £20, which I'm sure most jobs will stand), especially as you'll find that many of them are going to be "specials" (believe me). In fact, Whitehill do a very interesting 125mm diameter block which can hold either two TCT skew rebate cutters, or two profile cutters (or both if needs be), so two birds with one stone? If I really had the dosh I'd buy an Armadillo block instead of a conventional profile block - these don't require and limiters to be fitted as they are a completely different concept. The downside is that they aren't half expensive - but they are innovative, safe, and British! (rah! rah!)

The power feeder is nice, but I'd spend money on some tooling first before considering a feeder. Feeders are great if you are making batches of things, but if you are doing one-offs with lots of different cutters/set-ups then the time taken to adjust the feeder soon makes you regard it as a PITA. Volume work only. BTW if you aren't going to use a feeder, you'll need to make sure that your Shaw guards are up to scratch.

Probably one of the things you haven't considered is waste extraction. You are going to be amazed at how much material a rebate block or panel raiser can produce in a very short time - this is something you'll need to address pretty early on.

If you envisage doing much curved work, such as chair legs, curved door/window frame heads or curved bay windows I'd sort out that ring fence/bonnet which you have (or do I have that wrong) and invest in some decent Brauer toggle cramps (engineer's suppliers) so that you can start to do ring fence work. Not an expensive addition, but greatly enhances your range of possibilities.

Scrit
 
Paul , i wonder if you are asking if my build area needs clearing again ? :lol:
I already have quite a few cutters and limiters that i use in a 30mm block and a reduction sleeve to fit the 25mm spindle . Is it ok to use the reduction sleeve on all blocks ?
Im not going to go out and buy it all tomorrow ,the shops are shut :roll:
 
now then jason would i be so cheeky? :lol:

as you know i am always amazed by what you produce in that space
(what space :lol: :twisted: )

all the best for xmas remember the sales start on boxing day :twisted: :roll:

paul :wink:
 
JFC":1p5tlr3p said:
I already have quite a few cutters and limiters that I use in a 30mm block and a reduction sleeve to fit the 25mm spindle . Is it ok to use the reduction sleeve on all blocks ?
I reckon that a top hat section is safer especially on larger diameter blocks such as panel raisers as there is a greater area to transmit power through. BTW 1in = 25.4mm and the difference can matter (there are some Continental machines which actually have 25mm spindles, such as my tenoner)

HS - I'll scan and post the Armadillo stuff. After 6 years they still don't have a web site, but then their main target market is trade

Scrit
 
You can get a set of jointer knives for a universal block - not as durable as TCT, but they're a good way to get started IMHO

Scrit
 
I'll scan and post the Armadillo stuff. After 6 years they still don't have a web site, but then their main target market is trade

Scrit

I'd like to know about this too, Scrit.

I bought a similar Wadkin SM a couple of months ago but haven't used it yet.

I'm following this thread with interest as this is my first venture into spindle moulding. Mine came with a load of blocks and cutters but old ones without limiters. Do I chuck them out?

If you've got the time, an silly person's guide to spindle blocks and cutters would be appreciated!!

Brad
 
Brad Naylor":14gkl4fz said:
I'm following this thread with interest as this is my first venture into spindle moulding. Mine came with a load of blocks and cutters but old ones without limiters. Do I chuck them out?

If you've got the time, an silly person's guide to spindle blocks and cutters would be appreciated!!
The chuck it out thing depends on your status. If you are trade and anyone else ever use your spindle, then you've really little choice in the matter - the law requires positive locking (wedge locked) cutters with chip limitation, either with limiters or by dint of the block design (such as the Armadillo). There's an HSE sheet here which is worthwhile taking a look at if you want to understand the whys and wherefores. Personally I'd recommend having limiter tooling, partly because without it I'd be missing one of my thumbs if I'd not been using it (overhead router accident, but the principles of safety tooling design are the same).

If you are self-employed then the regs become a bit greyer in that you're unlikely to be inspected unless you have an accident, in which case you could still be prosecuted (according to the HSE their remit applies to all workplaces, employers or no) although your biggest problem is likely to be that your insurers will seek to reduce the level of your payout if they can on the grounds that you have exposed yourself to greater hazard than necessary. Not so bad if you're only off work for a few days, a bit worseif you suffer an amputation.

If you're an amateur then you can do what you like, although I would suggest that you bin any square cutter blocks, French cutters (and I really used to like them), slotted washer/collar blocks, etc and carefully examine any of the older Whitehill blocks for wear. Whilst the original Whitehill blocks were described as "safety" blocks in the 1930s, that was in comparison with square cutter blocks after all......

As a good primer for safe use of the spindle, might I suggest that you take a look at this sheet?

Scrit
 
Thanks for that, Scrit.

That's just answered more questions in ten minutes than has speaking to machinery dealers and saw doctors for ten weeks. Their attitude has almost universally been of the 'bloody stupid new regulations - never had a problem in my day' type!

Daft thing is, my local saw doctor, who deals in Whitehill blocks and makes cutters to order, stands (or stood) to get hundreds of pounds worth of business off me if he plays his cards right! Why can't people be more helpful?

My status is that of a limited company employing three (including myself) so I guess it's all new tooling for me. That must be why the machine was so cheap!

By the way, the spindle on my moulder is 1" dia. Is this going to be a problem for me or do I just use those top hat thingies?

Cheers
Brad
 
Scrit":27muaz2j said:
If you're an amateur then you can do what you like, although I would suggest that you bin any square cutter blocks, French cutters (and I really used to like them), slotted washer/collar blocks, etc and carefully examine any of the older Whitehill blocks for wear. Whilst the original Whitehill blocks were described as "safety" blocks in the 1930s, that was in comparison with square cutter blocks after all......


Scrit

Hi Scrit what are french cutters?
Also how do you sharpen cutter knives
I usually rub them flat on a diamond stone is this correct?


I know Tormek produce a jig anyone used one

Regards

Andy
 
you might like to try and get a copy of this book - stobart davis www.stobartdavies.com pubished think it may be being reprinted

SPINDLE MOULDER HANDBOOK
Eric Stephenson Reprinted 1999
ISBN: 0-85442-031-2

the bible as far as i am concerned - shows u how to grind cutters by hand as we did when i was a kid in the machine shop
 
Back
Top