Sorby pro sharpening system

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Democritus

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Hi Guys,
Does anyone use the Sorby sharpening system? I’d like to know if the diamond belt is worth the money. Does it run cooler than the other types of belts, does it bring an edge quicker, and does it mean that there is not much need for the other belt grits?
Cheers
D
 
I own the Sorby, but I do not own the diamond belt.

As for usage, it really depends how often you use it. The diamond belt is about £160, the Ceramic belts are about £5. As a hobbyiest, I replace my belts every 3 months or so, so it would take me 7 or so years to spend as much on Ceramic belts as a diamond belt. So hard to justify really. Your usage might vary.

The only time I find the Ceramic belts can heat up the tool is during shaping. If you're just touching up an edge, it won't even get warm.

You will still need the other (lower grit) belts for shaping.

I takes about 5s to touch up an edge with the Ceramic belts. Mostly because the Sorby is so accurate and quike to use.

You might want to check out Martin Sabin Smiths videos on sharpening. He is the only person I know of that has a diamond belt.
 
I have the Pro Edge, but not the diamond belt. Looking at the literature, I suspect that the diamond belt is not intended to replace any of the ‘normal’ belts for woodturning because there is no grit size specified.

The Pro Edge is not only for woodturners, but also for sharpening knives, chisels, scissors etc. I suspect the diamond belt would be useful for touching up carbide e.g. router cutters.
 
Thanks, guys.
I’ve had a look at Martin Sabah Smith’s You Tube video. He says that he uses the diamond belt most of the time, only using the other grits when reshaping tool profiles. As has been noted, the cost of a diamond belt is very high (I often think that turning gear manufacturers when pricing a tool think of a number and then double it), so it might be more economical to stick to the standard belts.
I’m not sure that I could get a CBN wheel, grinder, wheel adapter, and sharpening jig, for a similar cost. An 8 inch CBN wheel is about £130, a Record 8 inch grinder is about £90, adapters about £15, and jigs are pushing £150 (Axminster Tru-Grind).
MikeWalt went down the CBN route, but I notice that he has now gone with the Sorby system, and has a You Tube video on its use.
This whole sharpening business is a minefield, and I’m grateful for your comments.
D
 
I have the proedge and really like it . Like the other chap mentioned, I use mainly one grit unless I am reshaping. I can't recall if it is 180 or 240. I wouldn't even consider the diamond belt until you are racing through belts in short order. There are alternatives to the sorby belts which I have found to be as good or better at about half the price if you buy 10 at a time.

You won't speed up sharpening with the diamond belt because it is quick anyway. There are many alternative systems with their fans and detractors. I think this is as good as any because the learning curve is so little. If somebody had offered me a decent grinder, jigs and CBN for similar money I wouldn't have ruled it out. Both are different but equally as good.
 
If you want a finer belt then look at trizact. They are polishing belts really. Problem comes that when you try to finish an edge on the sorby, because you are working such a thin edge at that stage and the sorby is one speed it is very easy to blue the steel and ruin the hardness which demands a regrind. Most pro advice I have read on here by the likes of Custard is that you need to treat your final sharpening/honing by hand ( that includes using a guide btw!) . Possibly the new Axminster clone with variable speed adjustment is a game changer because at a slow speed on a trizact belt you could hone at a speed low enough not to generate enough heat to blue a really sharp edge.
To be honest I bought my sorby on here second hand and it was a luxury buy but I don't regret it. It's something I don't think about now. I just move over to the machine and get it done. I tried the trizact belts and they are good but you have to be working with a cup of water and tread so softly you realise why the guys doing it for a living seem to just switch over to another honing method by hand. (Whatever that might be!).
I think if you are asking whether you need a diamond belt you already know the answer and just need reminding or possibly have forgotten the question. No is the answer to both. (That is politely meant btw! ). :D
 
Same as the others, I don't have a diamond, would buy one if it was £50 but not £160 as it can't be justified for a few TCT tools, I do have a trizact belt but rarely use that either tbh, most of my sharpening is with a std 240 belt.
 
Bm101":2h4c3de5 said:
IProblem comes that when you try to finish an edge on the sorby, because you are working such a thin edge at that stage and the sorby is one speed it is very easy to blue the steel and ruin the hardness which demands a regrind.
Only with carbon steel tools.
With HSS (High Speed Steel) it doesn't affect the hardness if it turns blue.
 
What belts are people using for fast stock removal?

I've recently bought some scrapers that I want to turn into negative rake scrapers (they're quite chunky), and after about 20 minutes using the 60grit Ceramic belts, I was about 30% of the way there, I got bored and retired it for another session. The belt wasn't brand new, but it's seen very little use. To be fair - it is a lot of material to remove, so maybe I am just being impatient?
 
I use the 60g ceramic. I do find though that they can look fairly fresh but do lose their grit after a bit of use. And when worn, they are worn out 60g, I don't believe that they suddenly become useful as 120g, despite some people claiming otherwise.
 
I use the Sorby.

Was unaware of the diamond belt.

I use a wide range of belts depending on what I am doing. I leave off the annoying right hand blade guard and it takes a minute, if that, to change belts.

BM101 has it spot on. I do have a cup of water beside mine as it is true you can blue a fine edge easily. Hence I also have a diamond plate next to the machine. I have a strop too - don't always bother if I am sharpening chisels for chopping.
 
marcros":h2t0g9xd said:
I don't believe that they suddenly become useful as 120g, despite some people claiming otherwise.

Yes they just become a ex. 60 grit heat generator, abrasives are no different to any other cutting tool that has lost its edge.
 
transatlantic":xncrdl6l said:
.....To be fair - it is a lot of material to remove, so maybe I am just being impatient?
With most re-profiling jobs that need a significant amount of material removed, it is often worth just removing enough material to get the working edge aimed at, then slowly get to the total profile change you want on each subsequent re-sharpen.
 
CHJ":1xlfjog9 said:
transatlantic":1xlfjog9 said:
.....To be fair - it is a lot of material to remove, so maybe I am just being impatient?
With most re-profiling jobs that need a significant amount of material removed, it is often worth just removing enough material to get the working edge aimed at, then slowly get to the total profile change you want on each subsequent re-sharpen.

Agreed. But for this task (grinding a negative rake profile) you have to remove a significant amount of material to get the two planes to meet to form an edge.

I had a similar situation with a 1/2" Record Power bowl gouge, grinding to a swept back profile. Takes forever.
 
I have a standard 2 wheel grinder as well as the pro-edge they're next to each other on the bench and if I want to drastically change a profile I use that with the usual pot of water before moving on to the pro-edge to fine tune it. 6" grinders are as cheap as chips to buy.
 
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