Solder plumbing fittimgs

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graduate_owner

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Hi all,
A quick question regarding solder fittings for any plumbers on the forum. I put central heating in my house some while ago and have quite a few spare fittings, the ones that need to have solder applied. However I have used up my reel of lead free solder and I don't want to buy a new reel because I only have a small job to do (upgrading a few radiators). Also I don't want to have to buy ready soldered fittings when I have my spares.

So my question is - can I use leaded solder these days for non-potable water?

K
 
We used to have lead pipes and once they built up a coating on the inside they where aright, so I guess you could use it, but the proper stuff isn't much and if you need some in an emergency...

I had to cut the wife's wellys up to make a couple of washers on Christmas eve to get the central heating going!


Pete
 
IMO yes, the amount if lead is negligible. However, I would buy push together fittings rather than solder. Faster, and saves scorching the decoration if you move the torch and don't mivecthe gear resistant cloth!

In fact from being a copper man through and through, I've now moved entirely to plastic pipe and push together fittings. Central heating, pressure systems and cold water. Perfect, simple, no worries about Earth bonding, and cheaper.
 
graduate_owner":2780g78c said:
So my question is - can I use leaded solder these days for non-potable water?

Yes. You can buy both in most plumbers merchants.

And you could use lead solder for potable water until recently. Apparently the EU has made it dangerous.

Just to balance things out a bit, personally I won't have plastic water pipe in the house (apart from waste pipes obviously). I've seen the "Trevi Fountain" effect: very convincing it was, too...
 
I have half a roll of lead free plumbers solder. If you only need a foot or so I could send you some. I think it is lead free- green reel.
 
Thanks to all for the help, and thank you Marcros for the offer. It seems I can use the lead based solder I have so I'll be OK.

K
 
Eric - have you found problems with plastic fittings? I have used these in places where they can't be seen because they are a bit bulky and ugly, but I thought they were reliable.

K
 
graduate_owner":33k0eg97 said:
Eric - have you found problems with plastic fittings? I have used these in places where they can't be seen because they are a bit bulky and ugly, but I thought they were reliable.

Qualified 'yes' to that: I used a bit of 22mm (JGuest) as temporary piping while we were reorganising heating and hot water in the house. It stayed installed for about 6 years, and when I finally removed the last bits, the couplers had discoloured a lot - from white to quite yellow, even though they weren't exposed to any UV, but they were in an airing cupboard.

That's possibly the start of depolymerisation - you see the same effect in PC equipment that's moulded in polystyrene and ABS. Left longer, the surface starts to break up on the yellowed stuff. If it had been outside, I'd have blamed sunlight, but it was in a dark cupboard.

I also had a flexible coupling to a kitchen tap swell up like a balloon and pinhole. It was held in place by the stainless braid around it, so the leak could have been a lot worse, but when I fixed it, the interior of the pipe had a cheese-like consistency - you could easily scrape it away with the end of a scrwdriver. It was a hot feed, in a hard water area. I've never used those flexible couplers since that, even though they often come with the taps.

Finally there's the commercial landlord view: a good friend retired a year or so ago from being a clerk of works for a (big) local housing association. His job was being their eyes and ears on newbuild sites. They allow grey plastic, but they will not allow concealed joints anywhere, under any circumstances. The runs have to be uninterrupted when they're in walls & floors.

So I always do copper. If access is really tricky, I drop to 10mm or 8mm, for taps as well as radiators.

Most modern taps (apart from old style bath taps) are restricted inside so they have less area than 10mm pipe anyway. I guarantee that you wouldn't be able to tell which is 10mm and which is 15mm in our place. The kitchen tap (10mm, ceramic discs)) is so powerful that it bends against the stainless steel surround if you put both sides on full at the same time. On that, both hot and cold are limited to nominally 3bar (hot is probably 4bar at the bottom of the house).

I'm probably just being paranoid, but, unusually for me, I made a bad soldered joint in a radiator pipe recently. It was only dripping about once every 10 secs, and only overnight, but it made a horrible mess of the ceiling below. The Domestic Controller was surprisingly cool about the whole thing.

And the Trevi Fountain: - a friend was redoing his bathroom. I'd offered to help but it was declined, as plastic is 'so much cheaper'.

Genuinely coincidentally, I happened to drop in whilst his mate from next door ("he's a plumber") was finishing off the pipework in grey plastic (all T-joints under the floor). My friend was assisting. Before putting the boards back they decided to test it out by turning the supply back on...

... six different fittings leaking simultaneously (a couple actually blew apart) can make a lot of mess in a very short time. OK, I know they weren't mated properly, obviously, but they are supposed to be easy, and this chap was supposed to have done it before, lots.

I made my excuses and left. Otherwise, I didn't say a word.
 
Plastic pipes and fittings are no different to any other plumbing system.

Correctly installed it works well and lasts ages, most of it has a 50 year product guarantee.

Flexi pipes are different, even with push fit ends, if they are kinked, nipped or dented they will fail eventually.
 
A 50 year guarantee isn't worth anything in practical terms, unless it's backed by an insurance pollicy.

In any case, JG Speedfit has a 25 year guarantee although JG say "designed for a 50 year service life". If you think about it, that will be alarming for householders in time. Imagine knowing that your plumbing was out of life and all had to be replaced. In anything but the simplest layout that would be rather non-trivial to do.

In my case, the flexi pipe that failed was correctly fitted. I think temperature plus hard water did for it.

Guarantees? Here's a good example of why they're useless in real terms. Here's the RIBA Speedfit info. It would be dodgy in our place for the CH, as it would be very easy to exceed the 3bar spec.

I have Googled (life is too short, honestly) trying to find details of the guarantee. No joy. Happy to be corrected if I've missed a legally valid statement anywhere or reference to a policy. I'm also struggling to find formal installation instructions (where/how to use).
 
Afternoon K


It seems I can use the lead based solder I have so I'll be OK.

Can you use the same flux on lead soldered fittings?

I know that the old stuff doesn't work with lead free solder (don't ask), but I'm not sure if the modern flux works with lead solder.

Cheers

Dave
 
I don't know why these haven't taken off in the UK very much.

http://www.geberit.co.uk/en_uk/target_g ... opper.html

They tick all the boxes for me.

Plastic pipe....downside is that in a mixed environment (copper/plastic) if you decide to turn off the rads in a room or part of the house then you'll find that black haematite (unless you have the foresight to fit a Magnaclean or similar) will come out of solution but ONLY in the plastic pipe. Which gets blocked. DAMHIKT. Power-flushing won't fix it (not that power-flushing ever fixes anything).
 
@RogerS:

I'll tell you why they haven't caught on in UK - they are excellent in every respect, but coming from a Swiss firm (I think) they are really horrendously expensive here. What they'd cost on UK£, especially since out national bank just allowed the Swiss Franc exchange rate to float, I just hate to think.

But they DO work well though.

Krgds
AES
 
I normally use an active flux because I know it will do a good job of cleaning, although I also clean the pipe and fitting anyway just for good measure. I hadn't heard of a different flux being needed for lead / lead free solder, but then I have not used leaded solder for aver 20 years, since it became illegal for potable water.

Thanks to all for the help.

K
 
My neighbours company did a council flat refit ... Big block of flats next to a river. All the pipe work was specified as plastic. He advised them this was not a good idea but obviously the architect knew better.
The firm that was supposed to finish off left some gaps in the walls etc. Rats got in and chewed through the pipes. Mates firm had to replace the lot ,as it was urgent the council had to cough up at top rate. Evidently that one job was more profitable than all their other work put together last year. They are a big firm with 50+ plumbers.
 
Forgot to mention that copper, unlike stainless steel and plastic, is largely self-sterilizing*.

E.

*Obviously not literally, but bacteria die quickly in contact with copper, which is one reason (seriously) suggested for the increase in hospital infections over the last few decades - wards and other doors no longer have brass handles!
 
RogerS":v1emnejy said:
I don't know why these haven't taken off in the UK very much.

http://www.geberit.co.uk/en_uk/target_g ... opper.html

They tick all the boxes for me.

Plastic pipe....downside is that in a mixed environment (copper/plastic) if you decide to turn off the rads in a room or part of the house then you'll find that black haematite (unless you have the foresight to fit a Magnaclean or similar) will come out of solution but ONLY in the plastic pipe. Which gets blocked. DAMHIKT. Power-flushing won't fix it (not that power-flushing ever fixes anything).

If you want copper push fit Roger
http://www.screwfix.com/search?search=t ... tAodKVEAdQ

Personally I don't like them but I've seen them used quite a lot.
 
In answer to the OP's question. You'll be fine.

I served my time as a plumber guys, a loooooooooong time ago, back when 'wiping' lead joints together was all the rage. Still got the moleskin cloths I was given aged 16.

My take:
I concentrated on kitchens and bathrooms for about 10 years, and have only used John Guest plastic fittings unless circumstances forced copper. I've had 2 fail, one was a 22mm elbow on a hot bath supply, the other a 15mm elbow on a cold supply.

I found that the heat on 22mm gave it an option to move slightly and so use 22mm John Guest pipe with compression fittings or copper when I come across 22mm. I come across very little 22mm these days, mainly because combi boilers allow hot feeds in 15mm.

The 15mm was a faulty fitting with a split seal. Whether I caused this or not I don't know. I've fitted literally thousands of these fittings and these are the only two problems.

The degradation that Eric mentions is a first on me, I live in a very soft water area (acidic), I can only imagine that it's the alkaline water that's caused this.

I also used to feed basins with 10mm copper with no noticeable reduction in flow. (Not to be confused with pressure). This allowed them to be tucked neatly out of site behind the basin. I now only use the flexis that come with the basin or sink taps and haven't had a problem with them either.

I've also seen the Trevi, no plumbing visible to check, but it's very nice :wink:
Trevi01b.jpg
 

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