so what am I not doing?

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mrs. sliver

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hello, very new to turning! I have only made a few things but I can't get the finish you chaps get. (will I ever??) it is on the cross grain when you get it rough or it tears? how do you mack it so smoothee and shiny all over .... like slivers head?
 
Welcome to the forum Mrs S

If you made that Pot pourri jar you're doing OK.....it looks really good. Some of the experts will be on soon to tell you how to get the best finish.

Pete
 
cheers pete, it looks okay from a distance but if you enlarge it it has all the smoothness designer stubble in places!
but is great to have all this exprience on here to 'brain probe'! :p
 
Welcome to the turny spinny bit of the forum :D

Very nice looking piece - guess the designer stubble is at about 5 o'clock on the picture ?
Speaking as an enthusiastic amateur,when I have got the shape I want,I hone the gouge (or scraper) with a diamond sharpening pen and take a very light cut with it,then finish off with abrasive.
Some timbers are worse than others anyway,but you always want to try to get as good a finish as you can off the tool,and not have to rely on abrasives too much (so you don't sand away any detail on the piece,reduce the risk of heat checks in the timber from friction,and keep the dust down as much as possible)

It's all down to practice,and finding what works best for you.

Happy turning.

Andrew
 
mrs. sliver":3mzqbnyh said:
...snip.. how do you mack it so smoothee and shiny all over

Sharp tools for starters and a good bevel contact.
But that is an ideal world answer really and does not take into account that most pieces of wood grew up supporting a tree with no consideration for the taking of a nice shiny polish on all facets.

Try using sanding sealer on the endgrain before taking final cut, sometimes it works whilst still moist, other times after it has dried and is supporting the fibres. The endgrain fibres if not cut cleanly have a tendency to 'pull out' and (blunt razor syndrome---ask Sliver) once this happens the visual defect can be seen quite deep below the surface and can be difficult to remove without taking off more material, which again can be a lottery as to whether that cut will be better.

If the piece is to be oiled then wet with oil before final cut.
Soft finishing wax as a lubricant might help.

Do not try to remove all rogue grain or minor defects with machine sanding (lathe turning) I often spend 80% of the finishing time hand sanding spots.

Remember "Sand With The Grain" is the final criteria for hiding scratches and blemishes.

If an area is very rough and appears porous, try applying sanding sealer or finishing oil whilst abrading the spot with fine abrasive, this will fill the holes, whether the resultant finish is acceptable or not is your choice, but often once the sealer/oil has hardened it will polish up to an acceptable level.

Note all the above comments are made as a hobby turner, who spends his days in a love hate relationship with bits of spinning wood and what I do may make a professional weep.
 
Welcome to the slope logging in centre!

I think the replies above have covered most things, I'd just add one more and amend one for emphasis!

The 'add one' is to always (always, always, always!) stop, look and feel just before you get to what you are hoping will be the final cut or two. Never (never, etc, etc.!) try to rush the last bit cos 'it's going so well.... fatal!
Consciously stop and look very carefully, and feel both lightly and with some pressure all over the piece and in all directions - you're trying to find both tear-out evidence and high or low spots. Neither are always visible, the latter particularly. There is also a tendency for eyes to see what they want to see!
Looking alone is not enough! Use a steel rule/edge too if appropriate. Any little high-spot might just knock you off your oh-so-light final touch, and you can bet it'll bounce down into your almost invisible tear-out!

The 'amend one' is for the sharp tools and bevel contact. If I've learnt nothing else it's that chisels can never be too sharp, and no or reduced bevel contact invariably means firewood! And the smaller and/or more defined the piece, the more significant that is!!

Good luck, FWIW I reckon that's a very commendable start you've shown us there.
 
thank you nice people for that advice. I DO need to learn to get the tools sharper! I rely on 'old bald eagle' doing it for me and he isn't always around now I have the basic idea. (trusts me alone in the workshop .. the fool!) I shall also spend more time on my fiishing cut and hand sanding next time, Due to having lots of 'stuff to do' for other people it will most likley be Tuesday before we venture into the toy shop .. sorry ... workshop next I fancy trying a box next .. hopefully a shiny one! :lol:
 

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