Sliding table or Good Quality Mitre Guage?

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syntec4

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Hello all,

I have pretty much decided that I will be getting a SIP 01332 Table saw in Jan, unless anyone can talk me into something else. :wink:

The question is, should I get the sliding table with it as well; or should I just buy a good quality aftermarket mitre gauge. I have never owned or used a sliding table so I dont know what I'm missing. I dont do a LOT of work with sheet materials but I have cut up some sheets of ply recently and I can see it being useful to be able to dimension bigger pieces quickly and more accurately without changing setups. I used a Circular saw on the assembly table with a straight edge then trimmed on the table saw. No big deal. My current saw is a performance power from B&Q so i think you can guess the quality of the mitre gauge - I have never used it. I did however build a cross cutting sled which I use all the time. I dont have a massive workshop but I do have room for both options.
My reason for wanting to change is more accuracy and less noise. The brush motor in the current saw is VERY loud. It drives me nuts even with ear defenders on. I dont need to use a stacked D&*^ cutter, I can do that with a router. i like to have the guards on all the time.
What says the wisdom of the list?

Dont know if it will help but I Also have a BS300 bandsaw and a 12" Compound Mitre saw.

Thanks in advance for the input

cheers
Lee.
 
Hi Lee

I guess as always it depends on what you'll be using it for but for my money I'd go for the sliding table. I use mine more than my mitre gauge. If I'm doing 45 degrees on material for frames etc then I prefer to use the mitre saw.

Also, think about what you might want to do in two years time.

Will the sliding table be still available? Probably not.

Is it easier to assemble it when you first get the saw? Possibly.

Can you always go and buy a mitre gauge? Definitely.

Roger
 
Good morning Lee. FWIW, if you think that you might use a sliding table and you have the budget to get one then I would go for it. Invariably you can get a much better deal buying all the bits at one time than adding something at a later date. I have a sliding table on my Fox saw which I have found useful - the only thing is that the rail is quite short and so can't handle cross cutting very deep pieces. However saying that, I don't have the space for anything bigger. All the best, Steve
 
Hi Lee,

In your shoes I would definately go for a sliding table. I used to use a radial arm saw for cross-cutting panels etc but since I got a table saw with sliding table I use that with much better results.

Have you looked at Xcalibar table saws? They are the mutts nuts, great value for money, and the importer is based in Stockport with a showroom there. Many users on the forum swear by them. Phone Tim on 07763 470426 - he's the rep & will be able to do you a good deal. And no, I'm not on commission! :lol:

Tell him Brad sent you - He won't have a clue who you're talking about!

http://www.woodfordwm.co.uk/acatalog/Table_Saws1.html

Cheers
Brad
 
Lee, John's right (except for the sliding table rail being at an angle) the Axminster is the same as the SIP, and even at Ebay prices (link) you will be saving around £175.

I personally would go for the sliding table and if you do not get on with it, you could always sell it on Ebay to someone who didn't buy one in the first place, and you could then buy a decent mitre gauge. Or better still with the £175 you save with the Axminster you could always get an Incra and have the best of both worlds.

Cheers

Mike
 
syntec4":17wu1j21 said:
.......should I get the sliding table with it as well; or should I just buy a good quality aftermarket mitre gauge.
Hi Lee

I'd agree with the comments about going the sliding table route, especially as retrofitting probably won't be an option in 4 or so yewars time, however I'd sound a note of caution over using a sliding carraige to size large sheets of plywood. Unless you have a very large table indeed, such as those fitted to an industrial panel saw, then you'll still need to do your initial sizing with a power saw and straight edge.

The question is how big can you go? I'd say a 3ft sliding table will probably allow you to end trim a piece 5 to 6 ft long (beyond that the droop will make it very difficult), but that your maximum crosscut width will probably in the region of 3ft or less on most table saws.

Scrit
 
Hi Lee

FWIW I would add my vote for the sliding table. In one year I've only used mine a dozen or so times but I'm still glad I've got it because (a) It would be costly and difficult to fit as an aftersale add on (b) It handles half sheets (Which is large enough for me) (c) If I need to I can dismount the outrig frame & slide the arm up to side of saw & with the table locked it then is easy doing rip cut work
 
I just got my SIP, excellent saw. I didn't go for the sliding table as I don't have the room so I am ordering an Incra 1000se. A word of advice, First thing I did as to just knock off the sharp edges of the cast iron table with my Dremmel. Run your finger down the mitre slot and you'll slice it to shreds. Not sure if that's the case with them all or just mine but it was nothing the Dremmel couldn't sort out in about 10 minutes.
 
I also vote for a sliding table. I find it one of the most useful aspects of my saw. I don't cut a lot of sheet materials but there are so many moments when its handy (essential?) when cutting normal stock, and I feel safer using it.

Adam
 
Over here in the states the products are quite different, though the Rojek you showed (from Axminster) is sold here. Not being able to afford a true European Format Saw, I bought a 10" General saw from Canada with the sliding table option.

Sliding tables are wonderful for doing cutoffs. That would be a crosscut. But unless you get a genuine Euro format saw, it won't help at all for ripcuts. And ripping is what's dangerous on any saw. Thats where a format saw truly affords safety.

The table on mine is a bit large, so it also adds convenience for working with sheet materials such as ply. and you can clamp the wood to the slider, push it through the blade and be standing 1 meter away from the blade all the while.

One more thing. If your slider comes with a crosscut fence and flip-stops, you avoid measuring and marking wood. With all the attendant mistakes. A sliding table reallly adds productivity to your work.

Not knowing what that Rojek saw sells for in British pounds sterling, sliding tables on this side of the Atlantic will add $500-900 to the price of a bench saw.

Gary Curtis
Northern California
 
74extiger":3bdvwn3n said:
And ripping is what's dangerous on any saw. Thats where a format saw truly affords safety.
Hi Gary

As an Altendorf user (I assume that's what you mean by a format saw) I'm not sure why you feel that only a Euro format saw (or sliding carraige panel saw) is the only way to afford true safety when ripping. Not trying to start an argument, only curious.

Scrit
 
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