Sliding Mite Saws with Trenching/Grooving setup

[MooreToolsPlease]

Evening all,
I'm after a reasonably priced mitre saw to setup for a joint I need to do on the window frames I make. The company I make them for is introducing a standard size of windows and as they are standard sizes, is wanting them cheaper than the bespoke ones. Which is fair enough.
I've attached a photo of the joint and how I want to do it, basically it is a masons mitre.

I normally do the bespoke frames on the 4 head tenoner, and then run them through the spindle after.
I can make quite a big saving by buying in the material pre moulded, and then do the masons mitre for the joints.
I'll need to set up 3 of them to do the various operations, with a spacer for the material to sit on depending on whether it is the cill section @ 69 thick or the heads and jambs at 57 thick.
I've just picked up the 8 1/4" metabo slider but it isnt big enough, and the depth stop for trenching is micky mouse.
what saws does the forum have which have a good trenching facility, and reasonably priced?
Thanks[/img]

 

[wizer]

I have the 10" bosch slider which does trenching pretty well. I don't admit to understand how to do that joint. Where are you? If local your welcome to come and have a play.

 

[MooreToolsPlease]

Im in Iver, Bucks.
The moulding is removed on both pieces down to a depth of there the flat is with out the rebates/moulding. The mitres go on both pieces to get a close meeting point in the corner.
It's the same principal as a worktop joint if you are familiar with those, except a little more complex.
I've eyed up the axi 10" induction motor one, but not too sure if that is for trenching too.

 

[beech1948]

I'm not at all sure that this type of saw will be accurate enough for you. All of the SCMS saws I have used.....Dewalt/Sheppach/Makita....could
trench but not with truely repeatable accuracy for the joint you have in mind.

Thats just my opinion of course.

Could you create a jig to use a router to make the trench. This should be quite quick and very accurate and much cheaper than an SCMS. Possibly safer too.

regards
Alan

 

[Argee]

I'm not at all sure that this type of saw will be accurate enough for you. All of the SCMS saws I have used.....Dewalt/Sheppach/Makita....could
trench but not with truely repeatable accuracy for the joint you have in mind.

I think that Alan is right. The trenching adjustment is crude at best, but even if it weren't, you can still vary the depth of cut by the amount of pressure you put on the handle, due to the distance from the stop.

Ray

 

[chippy1970]

I have the Makita LS1013 and it does have the trenching facility but as the others have said its not perfect.

You can do quiet a good job with it but you have to take your time which is no good if you have a long run.

I even had a look at the most expensive one the Festool Kapex, before I bought the Makita, even the Kapex had play in the trenching setup depending on how much downward pressure you put on it as you cut.

 

[OPJ]

I'm also in favour of the "overhead" router-jig approach. I've tried doing a similar thing with a sliding mitre saw but, it's only really good enough for hogging out most of the waste - the finished cut won't be good enough, you'd still have to do some work with a sharp chisel.

 

[maltrout512]

With the setup that I have, I would mitre cut the moulding with CMS and then do the masons mitre on the woodrat. Just like that, well nearly.

 

[johnnyb]

i suspect this joint would normally be done with a morso guillotine. or have i got the wrong end of the stick. the morso im refering to is not the picture frame one but one with the knives having 2 45 degrees separated by a flat blade section. sorry if this is not relevant. i use a bosch gcm10sd which is pretty damn good and also quiet BUT a bit second fixey accuracy wise.