Skirting Boards.... and plaster.....

[Adam]

OK, first bits on topic, what method do the forum recommend for fixing skirting boards?

2nd question. We had a wall knocked through, and doorway bricked up. The doorway was bricked, then rendered in sharp sand, then plaster skimmed. The wall that was knocked out had a beam put in double plaster boarded (for building regs on fire), then skimmed. Other than adding the coving, the builder is basically finished. What method of sealing/painting the plaster do people recommend?

Thanks for any help.

Adam

 

[Jake]

Painted skirting, or hardwood/varnished?

If the former, gripfill seems to be the usual pro way. I use one of these instead, air nailer.

If a clear finish then screws and plugs.

Re the plaster, if you can leave it a week or two or three - the more the better - then do. If you can't, try to wait at least a few days or a week and use a new plaster emulsion - these are breathable and allow the plaster to dry out even after painting unlike a trad emulsion.

Whichever way you go, the first coat, politely called a 'mist coat', should be diluted 10%-20% with water. Not urine, as the less polite term might seem to imply. This just stops the plaster absorbing all of the water from the paint before the paint dries properly.

 

[dedee]

Adam,
I've fitted wooden (beech) skirting in two rooms and fitted it over the wooden floor to cover the expansion gap. I used the screw and plug method. With a tapered plug cutter I did not need to glue the plugs - handy just in case, or when, the floor needs to come up.
To get the skirting tight to the floor get a stout longish plank of wood and place on top of the skirting get someone to apply pressure on plank with foot, probably not necessary to stand. If room is to be carpeted than I guess this is less important.

Andy

 

[engineer one]

the most recent one i did was mdf that was going to be painted.

but it being a 30's terrace, the walls were not straight, so
i used gripfil and a nailer since you need to keep the skirting
against the wall until the gripfil goes off. if the room is wide,
it is difficult to block the skirting against the wall, so nailing is
the most stable way. nail at an angle to increase strength, and
also makes it easier to hide the nails.

i fitted this over a laminate floor, to increase the expansion gaps.
as before, outside mitres, and inside coping.

as for the plaster, i agree leave for as long as possible, then actually
a 3to1 mix of pva is one of the preferred methods in london.
good way to use up old pva glue which otherwise you would throw away.

whatever, do not start until you can see ALL the moisture dried out
of the plaster.

good luck
paul :wink:

 

[PowerTool]

whatever, do not start until you can see ALL the moisture dried out
of the plaster.

Unless,of course,you are on a television "house makeover" show :lol:

Andrew

 

[engineer one]

yes but they claim to have three people doing it, and we know they use
dozens :lol: :lol:

one day someone will do a whatever happened after?? :?
paul :wink:

 

[Martin Brown]

Small subject change: Just taken a wall out today in my Victorian House and found a wooden plug that was 2" wide tapering to zero. The brick was perfectly shaped to match. A real period piece. How did they shape the brick?

 

[Jake]

With an apprentice

 

[Martin Brown]

That was me today, then.

 

[Noel]

Adam, I prefer adhesive and screw and plug. With adhesive only you're into a wedging situation where the skirting has to be forced against the wall for a good fit. Fine in a narrow area like a hall but a nuisance in a larger area, hence the screws as well. Ok, re-read the previous threads and Paul has said something similar.
One other point is that the addition of screws stops the skirting lifting the plaster coat if the boards start to go walkabout because of dampness etc.

Noel

 

[engineer one]

interested about the use of the apprentice jason,
how did they use him
as a hammer, :twisted:
or was he the tapered head :lol:

paul :wink: