SIP 01332 set-up?

[zambezi]

I recently bought a SIP 01332 10" table saw, second-hand, which was a wreck.
I am trying to get it all set up properly and replacing parts as required etc.
My first question:
Could anyone who has the 01332 please let me know if you wind the blade up/down, does the blade go up/down with/without moving to the sides?
I don't really know how to explain it better but I will try...
On my saw if I wind the blade up/down the blade moves further from/closer to the mitre gauge slot in the table. It stays relatively parallel but if I measure the distance between the blade and the slot (for the mitre gauge), when the blade is sticking out about 20mm it is 100mm (random figure), if I wind the blade up to 60mm, the gap is 102mm (again a random figure). As you wind it up/down you can see the blade weaving side to side in the slot in the blade cover. I don't know if this is normal for the SIP?

Second question:
I have managed to set the blade up to be parallel with the mitre gauge slot, when I got it there was over 5mm difference! Saying that though, when the blade is say 20mm out of the table the blade is perfectly parallel, if I carry on winding it out then it is about 1.5mm off parallel by the time I get to 70mm.
Basically it is spot on when the blade is not sticking out much but if I want to rip something thicker then I will have to take the inaccuracy into consideration by adjusting fences etc. Is this a sign of a more serious problem with the machine or is it common with the SIP, am I am being overly fussy with my expectations/tolerances?

Any help appreciated.
Thanks Z

 

[OLD]

First thing is the blade flat and correctly seated a good start would be new blade and 25 to 30 converter ring then with blade fully up and set square with table (set the stop). adjust to be parallel with mitre slot then recheck and decide if you want to resell the saw, if near enough check the fence especially the 3 rubbing strips and set parallel with slot and blade and re check the soundness of connection of slider to fence. Once set up and kept clean with plastic covers not interfering it will stay in adjustment.

 

[zambezi]

Hi OLD,
Thanks for getting back to me. It is a new blade that seems to be flat and tight fitting (25.4mm bore so no spacer rings required). I have done what you said as far as setting the blade parallel to the mitre fence slot with the blade fully up. Trouble is when I wind the blade back down it A) weaves side to side and B) moves away from parallel by 1.5mm. If I wind the blade out again then it is parallel, so it is consistently inaccurate/accurate depending on how far the blade is sticking out of the table.

 

[OLD]

The rise and fall is basically a hinge so should stay parallel unless its pivot point is not square could be machined wrong or the mounting of this main casting may not be fixed to the main table correctly if you can not find and fix then its a resell .Movement side to side you can work with, toe in/out well not 1.5mm you can not.

 

[John McM]

Just checked mine, which is fine.
Double check blade is seated on flange correctly.
Take RHS (when viewing from front) panel off, just behind rise/fall wheel is a double cog running back and forth on pinion as you crank wheel. Check bolts are tight around there. Don't know how to test the hinged pivot mechanism but SIP tech support must be worth a call.
I found the manual online but it's poor.
Here it is anyway, might help.
http://www.sip-group.com/manuals/01332_manual.pdf
Cheers

 

[John McM]

Forgot the email for tech support

[email protected]

 

[zambezi]

Thanks for the suggestions and links.

One of the parts that is on order is the round worm-wheel (D-71 of diagram D on page 21) that rotates to raise and lower the blade, the current one only gets the blade above the table about 50mm then starts slipping, the threads are stripped. I think that is the area you were talking about John McM? I realised that the reason it stripped is because the bolt/shaft that holds the worm-wheel (D-74 Worm-wheel shaft nail) had rusted to the worm-wheel, which made the shaft turn (should run freely on the shaft), which was fine below 50mm (because the shaft was unscrewing) but after 50mm it would reach the end of the thread and lock the worm wheel to the plate that hold the whole lot (I think it is D-84, very poor picture). It does look like SIP could have made a slightly better job of this part to stop it happening in the first place. I may fit a washer between the threaded section of the shaft and the non-threaded section of the shaft so the shaft can be tightened up properly (against the washer) without clamping the worm-wheel to the side of the machine

As OLD suggested the blade mechanism is hinged and should stay parallel when it is wound up or down, which is why I am a bit fuzzy about why mine is not staying parallel. I suspect that either the machine is not machined very well or the shaft that the blade mech hinges on is bent.

I will wait until the new worm-wheel arrives and fit it, then have a play with it again. The dodgy worm wheel may be pulling/pushing on the blade mech and effecting it's alignment.

If I still can't get it right then I will be onto SIP tech, failing that it will be back on eBay.

In the mean time if anybody else can check their machine to see if it has similar characteristics to mine with the sideways movement of the blade when winding up/down, it would be much appreciated.

 

[zambezi]

I thought I would post an update about the saw...
SIP sent out the worm wheel and riving knife that I had to order via my local(ish) tool shop. I fitted the new worm wheel and the saw blade is now rising and lowering without any sideways movement/swaying. The new worm wheel is the same as the old one, so SIP have not rectified the cause of the original problem but now that I know what it is, I can keep an eye out for it.
Thanks again for the advice and feedback.