Shooting Board Mods

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woodbloke

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I've been following with interest the thread on the other forum about shooting board and thought I would go and have another look at mine. Also Paul C had loaned my Robert Wearing's excellent book on workshop jigs and there is a little bit about shooting boards at the back of it. I was a bit concerned with the performance of mine 'cos they were a bit 'hit and miss' regarding the accuracy. When I got into the 'shop last night and had a closer look at them:

11sd13as3dede.jpg


.....I found that the Formica wear strip that I had so much blind faith in for so long was in fact bowed :shock: The Formica is about 50mm wide and was bowed by about .5mm each side so that the plane in use was never dead flat, hence the edge of the boards and the tapered bocks were getting progressively munched away as the plane tipped towards them, and I couldn't understand why this was happening :?

In the book, the shooting boards are shown with an acrylic wear strip that rests on the sole of the plane just below the cutter and this is what I decided to incorporate on the modified boards, so it was out with the Marples Blue Chip house chisel and off with the Formica. Some of the surfaces had to be cleaned up with with the router in a jig and then sanded:

33sdf2gdrtdnrtgrt.jpg


I machined a groove in the boards with the saw by removing the riving knife :shock: (don't tell Scrit, but it's the only way I could do it) which by a coincidence happened to be a snug fit for as strip of acrylic plastic, simply fixed in place with a tiny dab of superglue at each end. I put a small chamfer on the underside so that they are easy to replace if needed. The actual bearing surface is again acrylic, screwed into place and then the waste was bearing cut with the router:

2s2df1df22sd.jpg


What a difference in the performance! I have been accused by another esteemed forum member :wink: west of the Tamar of not showing any shavings but on this occasion I think my modified shooters warrant it:

oojff32rd.jpg


66fg2hh.jpg


If you have shooting boards like mine, or have just made one :wink: or are thinking of making one, this is a great mod to do. Acrylic plastic is easy to get hold of (from firms that make signs) and the bits on the boards can be replaced without any bother if they get damaged or wear - Rob
 
aw come on dom, that wasn't subtle

but it was cool 8)

nice rob, will see whether my next one works as well :?

must get round to the plastics shop for some acrylic soon :roll:
table saw needs a new guard too :?

paul :wink:
 
woodbloke":15hn2mem said:
I have been accused by another esteemed forum member :wink: west of the Tamar of not showing any shavings
Tsk, that Lord Nibbo... :roll:

Very posh - I'm increasing coming to the conclusion I'm the only person in the world who considers shooting boards a disposable item though. I dunno, I suppose it's 'cos I know darn well I'd hesitate to ditch an unreliable jig if much work had been invested in it. Heigh ho, maybe I'll have to make a posh one just for photographs! :lol:

Cheers, Alf
 
Cheap cheerful correctible and disposable are good for me.

I have many visitors in this workshop and plane tipping which damages fences is common.

MDF running boards get worn and are definitely disposable, (if one remembers to show them ~ ;-(# ).

Currently trying 4 mm melamine faced mdf as running surface as my benches are flat enough.

David C
 
Nice boards, Rob!

Alf...but if'n you can make a "disposable" one well enough to be accurate..cannot you make a posh one accurate? :lol:

Take care, Mike
runnin' for the door...
 
Since my happy discovery of how to make a shooting board ultra quickly, I feel disposable is best - on the grounds that I find I need different sizes of shooting board and I don't have room for a collection, so bigger ones get recycled after use.
 
I don't think these boards are 'posh' in any sense of the word. I was getting a bit teed-off :? 'cos I couldn't work out why they weren't working as well as they they were when I first made them. Then when I saw that the formica was bowed it all dropped into place. The little vertical piece in the groove is a nice touch I think as it means that the plane body, in theory, ought not to be in contact with any part of the woodwork so even if it is rocked a bit in use, the cutter is still not going to take lumps of the side or wedge - Rob
 
David C":3o6wqitr said:
Cheap cheerful correctible and disposable are good for me.

I have many visitors in this workshop and plane tipping which damages fences is common.

Yes. If I wear out my existing shooting board, I will use an idea I first saw here:

http://www.fineboxes.com/ShootingBoard.htm

The fence (stop?) has a false face screwed on. This removeable face allows both adjustment (by planing suitable shavings off the thickness of the face), allowance for wear (if the holding screws are in slots, not holes), and (eventually) replacement. All good things IMHO.

MDF running boards get worn and are definitely disposable, (if one remembers to show them ~ ;-(# ).

For running surfaces, I'm seeing little wear on my waxed iroko. If I did, I'd probably go to UHMW plastic strip.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... e=1&jump=0
http://www.rutlands.co.uk/cgi-bin/psProdDet.cgi/DKL26

BugBear
 
bugbear":3brrmcn0 said:
For running surfaces, I'm seeing little wear on my waxed iroko. If I did, I'd probably go to UHMW plastic strip.
Yeah, I was wondering about that myself - been very effective on plane fences I must say, just a small concern that I'd see my plane shoot off into the wall... :lol:

Mike, taking you seriously (for some reason :p ) it's not making them accurately that's the problem, it's (as Rob found) whether they stay accurate. I just know I wouldn't want to break up a beautiful board to fix the problem and would either be lumbered with yet another "thing" to clutter the workshop, or else try to work round the problem and watch my already dubious output plummet in speed and/or accuracy. Fact is I know my limitations! :oops: :lol:

Cheers, Alf
 
Alf":39leqypq said:
it's (as Rob found) whether they stay accurate. I just know I wouldn't want to break up a beautiful board to fix the problem

Hence the benefit (IMHO) of the false face on the White Mountain design.

Easy to do, molto beneficial.

BugBear
 
woodbloke":1lg8835u said:
I don't think these boards are 'posh' in any sense of the word. ...
Sorry Rob--I used the word because it had been used. Well made boards, though.

Alf--I dunno. I've never had either of the two nicer boards ever shift or change. Of course, I think that's an advantage of using 18 mm BB ply for making them. Then oiling and shelacing them. The 90 degree is still 90, the removable heads are still their respective angles.

The Cherry shooting board I made for edge planing shop sawn veneers hasn't moved, either. This one I expected it to move over the seasons, but it hasn't. That or I tend to use it the same time every year :lol:

Now, the bench hooks and board jacks I have are used until they are sawn into, dropped and broke, or what have you. Those, for me, are readily made and don't need any degree of accuracy.

Then too, unlike DC, no one is allowed to use my shooting boards but me. Kris had to make his own...

Take care, Mike
 
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