sharpening

[lurker]

This post is probably going to get me ostracised, and banned for eternity but I have to ask:

Why is it on this forum, when talking about sharpening is “scary sharp” method rarely mentioned?

I notice people talk at great length about using an expensive Tormek Expound the virtues of various types of stones with strange names and eye watering prices, that have to be cleaned just so & flattened with another type of stone. And then flex and get people tearing their hair out.

Yet, a bit of abrasive (I just bought 20 sheets from Screwfix for a fiver) paper, some spraymount (the same can given to me has lasted 5 years so far) and a plate glass sheet (I know, I know but this bit is flat enough!) and I can hand sharpen (I’m yet to be convinced I need a honing guide) all my blades to a satisfactory degree of sharpness.

I will admit to occasional use of “technology” in that my blade refurbs usually start off being re-bevelling on the local college’s oil fed wheel (the use of which is worth the evening class fees for that alone)

Incidentally, I’m writing this from my desk in Whetstone

 

[Vormulac]

Hi Lurker,

I started off using the scary sharp method and it worked fine (I must admit to using a honing guide, I just can't get it right freehand), but after I experimented a little I found I was getting better results using a combination of diamond stones and finishing on a fine waterstone. Waterstones don't take as much maintenance as it sounds - I was dubious about them too to start with, but most of the work is done on diamond stones, so there is very little mess or clearing up. If anything, I found the scary sharp method to be rather messier!
I think anyone on here (with perhaps the odd exception here or there) will tell you that the best method is what works for you.

V.

 

[Lord Nibbo]

I use both a tormek and scary sharp method but the scary sharp is only any good for the secondary bevel so if I get the tormek out to put a new bevel on a blade I might as well hone it while it's in the jig and no real need for a second bevel, I'll get me coat ready now, No second bevel! :wink: :lol:

 

[dedee]

I use scary sharp on wet and dry. I always use it dry. It works for me. I also have and use a DMT Duo (fine and extra fine) and an Eze-lap stone.
Eclipse jig and Veritas angle gauge.

I also tend to stay well clear of the sharpening debates as I do not have a fire extinguisher. I do read them though

Please lets not frighten Senior off, he's only just come back. :wink: :lol:

Andy

 

[Alf]

Why is it on this forum, when talking about sharpening is “scary sharp” method rarely mentioned?

Dammit, you're right. It's a full five days since I mentioned it last... #-o :wink:

Cheers, Alf

 

[lurker]

Alf,

Well true, but you were not exaclty recommending it were you?

Should it be dismissed just cos its cheap to do?

 

[Bainzy]

I'm not convinced that it is cheaper - maybe for finer grits compared to a finer waterstone (8000 grit for example). The amount of paper you'll go through compared to going through an entire waterstone probably costs more in the long run.

The main reason I don't use it is I find it more convenient to use waterstones, but I use scarysharp after I've finished with my 6000g waterstone since any higher grit waterstones cost a fortune - 2000 grit wet and dry is roughly equivalent to 8000 grit waterstone if I remember correctly, so I finish on that instead.

 

[Alf]

Alf,

Well true, but you were not exaclty recommending it were you?

Nope, that's true. I was carefully not recommending anything because they all work, everyone has their own preferences and I didn't think that needed to be turned into a sharpening thread. On the other hand I was mentioning it, which is what you said... :wink:

Should it be dismissed just cos its cheap to do?

Again, nope, by no means. But it's open to debate as to whether it really is cheap to do - experience varies. It seems quite a few people also find they grow out of it, for want of a better term, and go onto more "traditional" solutions; again something that varies but perhaps it's worth thinking about why that should be.

fwiw I have done or still do the whole Scary Sharp thing, and the waterstone thing, and the oilstone thing, the diamond stone thing, the diamond paste thing, the belt sander thing, the felt wheel thing, the MDF wheel thing, the horizontal wet grinder thing, the... I confess though, I've never done the Tormek thing. What can I say? I'm just a terrible stick-in-the-mud who refuses to try something new... :wink:

Cheers, Alf

 

[tnimble]

Nothing wrong with the method. I sharpen my chisels on a set of norton waterstones with a veritas honing guide. Once me chisels are sharp and while I work with them and I feel the need to buff them a little bit I just take a el-cheapo diamond stone or the occasional piece of sanding paper that lays within reach. When I feel this didnt the job I run it over the waterstones.

I mostly only use the honing guide for new chisels or when changing the cutting angle or when I feel like a chisel is not that square any more.

For my hand plane blades I always use the water stones up to 8000 grit and guide. I have the feeling this gives me a smoother finish on the workpiece.

 

[Paul Kierstead]

This post is probably going to get me ostracised, and banned for eternity but I have to ask:

Why is it on this forum, when talking about sharpening is “scary sharp” method rarely mentioned?

Forums go through phases. Sometimes they are hyper busy, sometimes quiet. Sometimes people get kind of obsessive about a method, tool or style, be it stones, BU vrs BD, sharpening jigs, whatever. Then they burn out, or switch focus, or whatever. Scary sharp has got lots of press in the pass, I expect it to get more in the future.

Everyone has their methods of sharpening. Most are probably several methods in and I expect quite a few employ more then one method even currently (often split for grinding and honing). Cost is not always the primary issue, so although the Tormek is expensive, it suits some peoples methods, approach and expectations. For others, stones do it (they don't need to be as fussy as made out to be, you can tell I am a stone user....). Stones have lots of sub-adherents, diamond, water, natural water, ceramic, oil .... even scary sharp has the spray adhesive, just water, power versions, etc.

So no one is against your method, it just isn't being talked about right now.

 

[Harbo]

Its horses for courses - I would love to sharpen things freehand but I find I just have just not got the necessary skill so I have to resort to some form of guide.
I use a Tormek because I got one to sharpen my wood turning chisels especially the complex gouge shapes - having got one it makes sense to use it for other things.
I have a series of Japanese waterstones which I bought for my Japanese kitchen knives but in the end resorted to an "Edge Pro" system which offers the stones to the blade. It's a fantastic system and I wish it would work with other things than just knives.
I have spent the last few weeks sharpening all sorts of tools that I have acquired - most of the time and effort grinding out incorrect freehand bevels!
I found the Tormek not very good for polishing the backs of blades so resorted to abrasive sheets on a glass plate - I could have got out my waterstones but they would have needed to soak etc. etc. It is also no good for grinding Japanese chisels unless you make a special jig. For other things it is a great tool. Would I have bought one just for sharpening bench chisels - probably not.
All sharpening systems have their foibles and IMHO no system is better than another - it is down to the person holding the tool!

Rod