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I tend to do the same when I just want to get on with the job in hand. Sometimes it's just too much faff to set the sharpening stall out and use a honing guide.
However I still think an angle grinding fixture is a very useful aid when eventually you need to come back to a tidy new primary bevel.
Maybe I'm just not very good at it cos of my bins, but successive honing eventually makes the sharp end look like a dogs breakfast.
(Yup, I'm a time-served engineer :roll
Ike
However I still think an angle grinding fixture is a very useful aid when eventually you need to come back to a tidy new primary bevel.
Maybe I'm just not very good at it cos of my bins, but successive honing eventually makes the sharp end look like a dogs breakfast.
(Yup, I'm a time-served engineer :roll
Ike
bugbear
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Mr_Grimsdale":2r3u2de0 said:
I think you've invented the rounded bevel that the old manuals recommend grinding to get rid of!!
BugBear
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Plerase do a set of photos Jacob to show what you mean
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Colin C
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Mr_Grimsdale":3p5qc4zq said:
Hi Jacob,
I have a question
.Have you ever tried using a honing guide :roll: :wink: ?
I for years thought there where a wast of time but I always had problems getting a consistently sharp edge ( I used an indian oil stone and blue handled stanley chisels ).
I would have days ( not many :roll: ) when I could get an edge right away but after reading Kingshott's book, I got one for 50p at a car boot and gave it a try and get edges done a lot quicker than I used to.
If you can get you tolls sharpened by hand then great for you but some have a problem like me and I have found a honing jig the way to go, plus like you I work for myself so time is money.
I have a simple jig to set my angles and it takes seconds to set them up, plus on whole I use a single bevel ( that is unless I hit a nail or screw, the joy of repairing old furniture :evil: ) :wink:
Regards Colin
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gidon
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Colin C
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Hi Jacob,
I will post my jig for the Eclipse jig which is simple to make and quick to use.
I also use to work with a guy that had the stanley one and found that his wheels had worn down a bit, so it was not giving him the same angles on his tools.
I do hand sharpen my carving tools but I us e a diamond stone for all and finish with leather and autosolve
I will post my jig for the Eclipse jig which is simple to make and quick to use.
I also use to work with a guy that had the stanley one and found that his wheels had worn down a bit, so it was not giving him the same angles on his tools.
I do hand sharpen my carving tools but I us e a diamond stone for all and finish with leather and autosolve
dchenard
Established Member
Freehand sharpening isn't hard, but it can be intimidating until you've tried it. I was kind of "forced" to do it in a WW course, and found it very liberating in the end. A grinder, a 1000 and a 8000 waterstone, that's all that's needed, it is very fast and very sharp...
Unrelated question, what's this thing about the cars in the UK having boots? Over here we use tires :mrgreen:
DC
Ducking and running
Unrelated question, what's this thing about the cars in the UK having boots? Over here we use tires :mrgreen:
DC
Ducking and running
Colin C
Established Member
Dc
I never had water stones when I used to sharpen free hand ( just a norton combi oil stone) so no 8000 grit for me :roll: :wink: .
I had times when the wire edge would not come off doing it by hand and find that I get consistence edges with it
I never had water stones when I used to sharpen free hand ( just a norton combi oil stone) so no 8000 grit for me :roll: :wink: .
I had times when the wire edge would not come off
doing it by hand and find that I get consistence edges with it Frank D.
Established Member
I don't really understand the time argument. I sharpen both freehand and with jigs, but it only takes me about ten or twenty seconds to get a blade in the jig. Once it's in, it doesn't come out until sharpening is finished, and it probably saves me ten or twenty seconds because I don't have to rock the chisel (or blade) on the stone to feel where the primary bevel is. A quick touch up is faster by hand but anything more there's little difference.
dchenard
Established Member
Frank D.":dh2kt1xx said:
OK, before I open my big mouth, what jig do you use?
DC
Looks like a Canadian invasion all of a sudden
Frank D.
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Open wide Denis,
I use the LV Mk I most of the time (except for my #8 and 112 blades, and narrow chisels).
I use the LV Mk I most of the time (except for my #8 and 112 blades, and narrow chisels).
dchenard
Established Member
Frank D.":ihzuq6ia said:
Well, Quick-draw McGraw, I've never been that fast with setting my Mk. I jig... If I tried to rush it I would either not register the blade properly, resulting in either a crooked blade that would sharpen unevenly, or setting the angle just off a bit, or both.
The Mk. II is more foolproof, but takes more time to set.
Freehand, it's just a matter of find the contact angle with the stone, lock your arms, and hone away. Even cambered blades are easy to do.
A jig will give you more consistent results, but I think it's worth training oneself to hone without one. I still have my MK. II (gave the MK. I to my father), but haven't used it in a while. I keep it as insurance for a "bad honing day"...
By the time one fetches the jig from its storage, adjusts the revolving turret stop to the proper angle, registers the blade against the stop and sets the micro-bevel knob to the proper location, I'll probably be done honing a blade freehand. If more than one grit is used, then the jig and blade should be rinsed to avoid bringing the rougher grit to the finer stone, the micro-bevel knob adjusted if desired, then do the next grit, and so on.
Once the job is done, the jig needs to be cleaned and stored...
Earlier this year there was that article about sharpening on paper in FWW, with the title "Razor sharp in two minutes". Yeah right... The author didn't account for all the steps...
To each his own, and there's nothing wrong with using jigs, but I prefer the freedom and speed of doing it freehand.
DC
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Colin C":4q667owh said:I do hand sharpen my carving tools but I us e a diamond stone for all and finish with leather and autosolve
It works great doesnt it, soovol autosol chrome polish. I tried it for a laugh and found it worked just fine even though its not "proper veritable industry kit" :roll: :lol: :lol:
I put it onto leather on shaped wood blocks for doing eg my adze, gouge, billhook etc. Theres a canadian inuit?? bloke uses something similar with a horizontal disc of wood covered with leather powered by a washing machine motor, for elbow adzes and such.
Are them blue handle chisel steels any good???
PS I have a norton oil stone but do not rate it highly, espcially now I have some waterstones bester, Arashiyama, Splex, Sun tiger etc.
Cheers Jonathan
Colin C
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Hi Jonathan,
The blue stanley's are ok ( well the ones I had were), I dont have them any more but have the old black handled ones for site work and Most of the chisels I have in the workshop are old marples ( which I like alot ).
I do the same with the wooden block for most of my carving tools too, when sharp they will oak end grain with no problem
The blue stanley's are ok ( well the ones I had were), I dont have them any more but have the old black handled ones for site work and Most of the chisels I have in the workshop are old marples ( which I like alot ).
I do the same with the wooden block for most of my carving tools too, when sharp they will oak end grain with no problem
